thanks for your thoughts,
I will think on slicing a 519a as one option
Im also considering ordering a new driver,
or possibly installing a less warm 219b LED
the 2700K 519a did not have such severe flicker with this same driver…
not sure which way to go yet…
I took the gross looking SST20 5000k’s out of my D3AA and dropped in a couple of FFL’s. HUGE IMPROVEMENT!!! I actually want to EDC this light now.
FFL351A 1800k x 2, 5000k x 1
In that situation, did you heat up the entire MCPCB to do the LED swap?
I did. Removed the whole thing. It was my first time soldering that many small wires in a small area. Was nervous at first. But figured it out
T3 ti-cu + ts10 optic+ mcpcb ts10 3535 + nichia 219c dedomed + copper spacer+ convoy 17 mm 3v 5a 12 groups driver
Congrats!
Is there any CCT shift with this combination or is the beam even?
Thanks to the ever-so-awesome u/INeedMoreLumens for having a couple of spare 519a DD’s laying around, my little KC1 is back in business after the “I’ll try to dedome this 519a… that’s not a 519a” mishap.
You know you’re with the right woman when she says, Go ahead and test your batteries in the house ( Junk room – My treasures )
I replaced the led in my imalent hr20 with something warmer - xpl hi neutral (5000k…??) to xpg 3300k (what i had on hand). The beam profile is a little throwy for my preference so i scratched up the reflector. I overdid it and took the coating right off around the edge of the reflector. Surprisingly the beam smoothed out a little but not much. Comparison shot , skilhunt h04 left > imalent hr20 right
Did you consider scratching up (frosting) the lens instead? Like with some sandpaper. I’ve done that with good results to either smooth out the beam or to make it more floody.
I didn’t think of that. I feel like the lens would be easier to find a replacement so i should have tried that first 
oh well. Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll give it a try
I use Armor Etch, 3min job
Xpg2 in warm tint are not bad. I buy from Kaido one 3000 and 1 4000 and they are very beautiful
How did you get a frosted texture without linear scratches from the sandpaper?
Also, you could have just used DC-Fix and the mod would be easily reversible if you wanted
I tried to contact the member that’s sells dcfix a few years back and never got a response. I haven’t chased it up since. I could probably use opaque scotch tape to similar affect…?
As far as no stripes… i guess it’s because i used fine grit paper. I would need to go and check it if you’re interested to know?
No need, thanks! Fine sandpaper is sufficient info, I may try on a headlamp I only use for flood and wouldn’t need to revert.
S2+ FFL707A 4000k Mule with Convoy 6V 4A boost driver
metal switch to rubber switch with amber led.
spacer = copper discs soldered together. copper rings to center 16mm 7070 mpcb and hold it down. matched height with s2+ triple. I accidentally chip the edge trying to solder the rings onto the mcpcb but it doesn’t affect anything. I had to grind down the driver retaining ring with Tungsten Carbide rotary bit to fit the 6V driver.
s2+ mule family
2700k/5000k LH351D + AD17 FET driver
219B 4500K + Convoy 12grp linear 5A
FFL351A 1800K/5000K + Convoy 12grp linear 5A
FFL707A 4000K + Convoy 12grp boost 6V 4A
S2+ mule: : FFL707A 4000K
S2+ mule: FFL351A 1800K/5000K
S2+ mule: 219B 4500K
S2+ mule: 2700k/5000k LH351D
I felt like trying something out.
Convoy T3 Ti with YLX N3535B @ 1.4 Amp (4*7135 105c)
Problem was that I couldn’t find the original special board, so I had to modify an XP16 board. As this is thicker, the head cannot be closed completely, a small gap remains between bezel and head.
but looks interesting nonetheless:
With full Vapcell H10 I got 400 lm @ 11000 lx
Not bad. The beam is ok, the tint is really good, with no green even on low, but the brightness is not that impressive.
I’ve never tried it - but how easy is it to solder the copper discs together? What kind of heat do you need? And any kind of particular solder or will any off-the-shelf stuff work well enough?
