I’ve done it a couple of times and it works…put a piece of tin between the two copper plates (or even brass) and then heat them with a torch lighter
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It’s very simple, just about any heating and solder/brazing filler works. A propane torch, a candle, an electric stovetop, etc.
An electric hotplate might make it easier though, less risk of yourself getting burned.
Same mentioned above. I apply a small amount of solder paste between the discs, it doesn’t really mater what kind of solder. I use 63/37 but I’d recommend lead-free if you going to be grinding the discs. Use a steel/aluminum sheet ontop and bottom to keep the copper from getting marred. I clamp the discs tightly together so there no gaps and there’s more surface contact between the copper disc. Heat the discs with a culinary butane torch. I heat different parts, top, bottom to get even heat. once you see smoke or the solder liquefy then just let it cool down for like 10 minutes.
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Depending on how much you want to diffuse the beam, you can choose from fine to course sandpaper.
And to remove any distinct lines, you just need to sand in different directions until they all go away. Pretty much trial and error.
Where did you get the amber LEDs from and do you know about how many mA they draw?
Or are they the same as the warm white LEDs?
Around 7 years ago i modded a DQG26650 with meld-x running gear. I recently decided to transfer the innards to a slightly smaller host. I haven’t ordered leds yet but plan to make a mule with the DQG host.
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After a long procrastination, I finally swapped E21As into my TS10 V2!
2 x 4000K + 1 x 4500K
No more turbo for me🤕, but now the tint is much better than the CSP 6000Ks.
Exactly what I wanted, under BBL and just a touch above 4000K.
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what size are the spacers that go atop the mcpcb to hold the glass up? these are very interesting lights.
Nice. This has been on my todo list for a while now, i have 5700K (9050) E21As to go in.
How’s the beam?
There are loads of cool mods posted recently 
It’s great to see people still playing with stuff and being creative.
The most recent thing i’ve done is shove some FFL 351A 1800K and 5000K in a tint-shifting Sofirn IF25, but taking pics is PITA for me so i haven’t posted it.
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There is a little bit of yellow on the outmost part of the beam, but it’s not any worse than the 4000K CSPs in my V1. It doesn’t bother me when I’m not white wall hunting.
Loving it so far!
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I remember swapping 4500k E21A into my brass TS10. it came with 6000k originally. the Nichias were much nicer, and even more so than the 4000k silver aluminum TS10 I got. 5700k would be nice. unfortunately I accidentally burned them from turbo.
I feel most of my CSP2323 4000k were green, especially my dark green TS10 with green aux. I have a few others, but my 1st gen copper has 519a 5000kDD, and my silver has 2700k SST-20. all the rest of my TS10s need new boards or other drivers, just haven’t had the time to get them to work. need more masternate boards.
The tint of my CSPs are alright, although I don’t have a large sample size. Nichia tint is definitely an upgrade.
TS10s are cool lights, unfortunately they don’t have straightforward modding options. Direct swap is limited to something like E21A + handicapped output, or a custom board is required.
I recently picked up a super tough Pelican 1300 case. I spent some time measuring, drawing, and cutting foam to fit two layers of flashlights. I even made holes for a mica support frame so the top layer doesn’t press down on the bottom. The flashlight slots have soft foam, while the base is hard foam. I added a cover with foam that perfectly matches the flashlight slots, ensuring they don’t bump or roll around. The cover also has soft foam on top and hard foam for extra support, glued at the back.
On the outside, I added some 3M adhesive to attach fun patches. The whole setup isn’t too heavy and can hold up to 16 flashlights (18350 or smaller) and 8 18350 batteries.
For fellow flashlight enthusiasts, lugging flashlights around in a tactical pouch can be a hassle, and you can’t fit that many while still protecting them properly. With this setup, you’ll feel at ease—no worries if the case gets dropped, and you can toss it around without a care! :laughing:
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Great job with the foam inserts. I tried doing something similar but my cut outs didnt look that clean.
What type of foam is that? And what did You cut it with?
I was thinking about something similar for my knife chest
This was just a test run, but if I were to do it properly, it would look much better. I took precise measurements and used a laser cutter (though it’s not as sharp as a knife since the laser can melt some thicker foam areas that take longer to cut).
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I bought the foam at a local market near my house here in Vietnam, so it’s pretty easy to find this stuff. I used a laser cutter to test it out, but if I were making more, using a knife would give a cleaner cut. However, I’m just making one, so I went with the laser for now.
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fwiw, masternate boards are for V1 TS10 w single color Aux
for V2 TS10 w RGB Aux, you can get boards from Zwerglein02:
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