What is the body of this S2+? Looking good.
I found your topic Custom convoy body
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Welcome to BLF maxlume!
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Thanks Max. . . And welcome to the forum., i see you eventually found the correct reply button. Iām sure Jon wonāt mind, heās a nice guy.
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that white TS10 with SW45K is just absolutely perfect. it is the best emitter.
so far the only TS10v2 I have was the first batch full Ti sandblasted. all of my others are the old V1 model with single color aux. I do need to get more though.
I have since used its driver in another TS10 I modded with a single emitter (dedomed XML2 3000k), TIR, and FWAA (I think) flex RGB AUX board.
some of the XML2 phosphor was damaged, so there is a bit of blue in the beam, but before that happened it was a very lovely rosy warm beam. Iāve had those emitters in two lights, but they are very fragile after the dome is gone. the first one got killed by a tlTIT as well.
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that looks very nice. where would one find a red glow gasket like that one? I have had a red one that glowed yellowish orange, but accidentally broke it. I think it was from lumintop?
Might be available at jc customsā¦?
This one i have (much like the led4power gear) was bought a couple years ago.
Today i tried to anodize my Ti T3 to make it bit more unique and i can say that i successfully failed. Well its not all that bad but for some reason i could not get the front piece to change colors, i even hit it with 70v, so now it looks like this, unique but far from perfect. Next i need to figure out how to remove the coating on the copper part, its too shiny for my liking.
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lol, congratulations 
I have had some success using Acetone (nail polish remover)ā¦ if all else fails, fine emery paper is guaranteed to work (600, then 1500 grit)ā¦
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Does that mean the bezel is a slightly different alloy?
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Oh yeah, good point on the nail polish remover. I used it to remove the coating on the copper S2+ few years back, so it should work on this one too if they used the same coating.
I am not sure, but i think that i messed up something rather than the bezel being different alloy. This was the first time i tried to do this and the bezel piece was the first one i tried, so chances are its my fault not the metal itself.
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The tailcup is very beautiful in my opinion
Itās a stock amber switch I got from banggood a couple years ago. My multimeter seems to be on the frits as I canāt get clear measurement. 301 resistor.
I used copper washer. M16 * 20 * 1.5 From here
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Do yāall think Convoyās 16mm PCB with quite deep wire cuts like this:
Will fit instead of the stock 12mm pcb in this flashlight (itp SA1):
The overall diameter shouldnāt be a problem but Iām worried itās going to cover the wires. I know there are 10mm PCBs out there like Kaidomain has has them (and the LED itself has better bin) but my total would cost like two times more and I donāt want to overspend on a little side project.
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I think youāll be fine and thereās plenty of room to grind out the notches further if needed.
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Heh, Iām trying the opposite, I want to clear coat my FWAA to keep it from tarnishing but have no idea which kind of coating would be thin enough not to interfere with heat transfer but robust enough not to wear down quickly.
Been working on making this old mini Maglite functional again. The space in the head is 18mm. So I took a 20mm mcpcb and copper spacer and sanded them down to fit. Dropped a Carclo optics on for a test fit and it was perfect!
Iām waiting on a 14mm driver from Mtn and a dummy 14500 from AE (didnāt need 2 batteries) and this things should be up and running!
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Nice job! You could also get one of those weird 4.2V 2xAA cells like the 2AA Pokelit uses.
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