Hello, have anyone tried to swap the L35 with FFL707a?
I’ve seen a few posts on Reddit that L35 could fry 707a, but there are no proofs.
From my understanding L35 uses 6V6A driver having same power as LumeX1.
I changed the LED on several l35s. Ffl707 5000k cri95.
For this LED 36W funny power LED test / review - Fireflylite FFL707A 4000 K 95 CRI - extremely rosy, but (relatively) high performance
The 4000K Rosy withstood 116W and did not burn out during the test. Apparently, someone just stained the LED with flux or thermal paste
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I printed a unique adapter/holder.
This design combines two of my hobbies, it allows holding the standard Alfa USB long-range Wifi adapter to a GoPro style attachment like a tripod, holder, suction cup or similar for vehicular, offroad or home applications.
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I had this Convoy S11 with GT-FC40 1800k and I did not like this beam. The battery used to drain very fast and it was too yellow. Now it has a LHP73B 5000k led with the 20a driver. Very good flooder!
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Sofirn HS20 from LH351D and XHP50.2 to 519A 5700K and LHP531
good thermal paste amount and spread:
Directly after reflowing:
And in the light
I like it so far! The tint of the XHP50.2 always bugged me…
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Today my Skilhunt EC150 finally arrived. Won’t be telling how great this light is, you all know that already 
But this flashlight turned out to be very floody, so I took the domes off (also I prefer warmer tints).
BTW, this flashlight has really low moonlight (too low for my liking).
Also I’m thinking of trying different optics. I currently don’t have an open TS10 but looks like its lens should fit. EC150’s lens size is: dia = 17.5mm, depth = 5.8 mm.
Here’s a picture of what I mean by depth:
As expected some artifacts appeared but it doesn’t bother me.
Those star rays are much more prominent than on this photo, but in real world scenarios aren’t actualy noticeable.
And to check the result of dedoming I used phone’s camera and some “lux meter” app. Also I was interested in how EC150 compares to my other 14500 lights.
Here’s the lux measurements at 5 meters (highest modes):
I’m very pleased with the result. With naked eyes the beam profile became similar to TS10’s one, with slightly bigger hotspot.
Also I ran series of ceiling bounce tests. Was surprised with almost no “brightness” loss but that’s probably due to the fact that now most of the light trevel straight to the ceiling and back to phone’s camera instead of being scattered to the sides.
Ambient temperature was 27.5°C
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Very clean reflows L4M4! How do you minimize the excess solder?
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If I pulkl an LED from another board like the 519, I don’t add solder because it’s not necessary, with a new LED I put a bit of fresh solder on the solder pads of the board.
When the solder is liquid, I tap the LEDs from above which shoots the excess solder out the side as little blobs that will stay near the LED due to the flux.
If I still have excess solder like shown here: 【convoy】SFT70 3000K CRI95 available - #15576 by Azirine I touch them up with a soldering iron.
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I think this satisfy my need for hotrod. M21B with 20A buck and N5-250HE from Nightwatch.
That 10A extra for 15% more light and heap of excess heat is definitely worth it, haha.
Wonder if it better to just use SMO reflector considering how small the LES are for the N5-250HE?
And I can’t decide which is the better color scheme.
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I finally found my “A-” Box of lights! 
Most of them are not worth modding, but today I modded the “Convoy L6” and the “EagleEye X6-SE BLF Edition”
EagleEye: Just an Emitter swap zto LHP531 and a 5A driver.
Had to add some solder to the mack of the retaining ring because for whatever reason the ring was not making contact. Probably because the PCB is thinner on the new driver.
Convoy L6:
Swap to LHP73B 6500K and the L8 driver, so single cell 25A driver without the need of a second switch in the back.
I designed and printed a 26650 dummy with a big copper cable and modified the back as well.
Also I am using a 21700 JP40 for this light.
Had to make the driver smaller from 32 to 30mm and remove the USB-Socket. I used my lathe and used the little 5mm nipple in the middle to hold it. Worked like a charm! Just be very careful, don’t remove too much material.
Works like a treat! I would love a L6 model with a single cell so that I could eliminate the long tube…
It’s nearly dark here, I am very excited to test it 
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I forget if I put it on this thread, but some (long) time ago I bought one of Simon’s other single 20660(?) lights just for the tube.
Has a boost driver from Hank which is a little underpowered for this hefty host, and a 20mm quad board of 519a’s which is predictably doughnutty.
My stuff has been in storage a long time, when I get chance to dig it out, I’ll probably mod it again.
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Another blast from the past: Roche F8
One of my favourites. Good size, looks great, fantastic colour.
This is the only light where I don’t mind that “tactical” anti-roll thing in the back.
Updated from XPG3 and MTN-20DD Driver to FFL351A and Convoy 8A Buck driver. Would have liked to only run the LED on 5A, but there is no 5A 20mm buck driver from Convoy.
ALso lubricated all the threads and gaskets.
Spot is perfect, good allround size.
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You could use the 17mm buck and a 20mm to 17mm adapter
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Almost successful prototype colored S2+ with lighted switch that can tailstand and is bright
the button is a bit crooked but works
used uv glue from phone screen protectors (first versions that came out for curved samsung displays) to make a metal button holder and while at it added some blue GITD powder
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Thank you for sharing. Someone on reddit posted that the TIR melted after swapping their L35 to the FFL707A 4000K.
Have your L35s been running fine on Turbo?
Someone just stained the optics and/or the diode with thermal paste or something else.
Yes, those l35s work perfectly and turbo is almost the main mode of their operation.
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What a relief to hear that! Have you tried both 4000K and 5000K?
Yes. All replacement options for the Ffl707 cri95 give much less light, so it is much more difficult to heat the optics with them than with the native xhp70.3 hi.
But how much do we know about the l35 with its native diode and molten tir? Any. All burnt diodes after replacement and any damaged optics are the result of careless replacement, nothing more.
Technically yesterday, but I did a “lume tape mod” on my Casio W800H.
Little disappointed, I think the acrylic face and LCD blocks a significant amount of UV/blue light, so it doesn’t charge up very brightly.
First pic is after holding it against a cold white LED bulb and is fairly accurate to what my eye sees immediately after charging. Second is realistically what it looks like after 5-10 minutes:
I know this to be fairly good tape, I’ve got a strip of it behind the TIR on my M21H and also on the back of my phone case- for the latter, it’s visible all night simply from charging by ambient light. I put my phone face-down on the table and put my glasses on top so I can find them in the dark.