I know it’s a bit late, but the FFL351A 5000k is just about the nicest 5000k emitter I have EVER seen. As clean as r70 xhp50/70.3 Hi. makes 519a 5000k look quite badly green.
Im glad I bought 5 to put into my lights last year. I have them in a pineapple mini and a D4V2. they are very nice. not rosy like the 4000k but they’re just about the most neutral tint I’ve seen, I really like them.
I did get the FFL351A 5000K, was unsure if I should replace the emitter again into my T6. But since multiple people said the 5000K is good, I might actually try it out now
I am regretting not getting the T6, I had one in my cart but it didn’t make the final cut. only got the L21B host and L7 after wanting them for years. order finally showed up today.
Any more I never find myself carrying anything bigger than 14500, in day to day stuff.
But the 5000k FFL is a very nice clean pure white. not rosy but also very not green.
if I had any beamshots of it it’s been a while and I can’t remember what pictures are what now, maybe I can get one tomorrow night.
I see, that unfortunate, I love the T6 especially since I finally have something to carry around without big flashlight in my pocket.
Well, hope mine isnt too green then, hehe.
But I’ve been trying to get more big hosts myself, I did want to get the L21B, but went with a FFL T9R. Hasn’t arrived yet.
Got the T9R with SFT-40 and asked for the Lume1 with FET. Trying to get my hand on the N5-165HPE and reflow that one instead.
Maybe someone know a high power 5050 LED that can be FET driven?, other than that and the SFN40.
Today I modded a Wurkkos TS10SG to get a special cyan reference light (which would be mainly used for some research).
I used the Cree XE-G in PC Cyan variant. (order code XEGAPC-H0-0000-000-000000U2001)
The LED is interesting in any case. If there is interest, I may write a test on this. The chip lights up at less than 2.1 V (!) and from about 1 A the tint shifts strongly into the greenish range (peak well above 500 nm) because a second peak forms at about 500-510 nm in addition to the first peak at about 490 nm, which I never saw before.
I don’t yet know why this is the case. But perhaps this spectral instability of the phosphor used (NKLSO?) is one of the reasons why there are virtually no ultra-high-power LEDs with filled cyan gap.
Reflowing of the XE-G is not trivial. The LED is extremely small (footprint of TS10SG is standard 3535) and the board has to be modified to fit the unusual footprint of the XE-G.
The light is somewhat throwy (despite the lens being diffused) and of course it is just cyan
The TS10SG seems to be the almost perfect LED testing host, at least for 3535 or smaller footprints. Very cheap, relatively easy to open, with Anduril (important for smooth ramping and ceiling!) and small. Unfortunately it cannot take NiMH which would be the best.
Perhaps finally people are giving XE-G some attention! My thread looking for phosphor converted LEDs (or even just XE-G MCPCBs) never got much traction
If MCPCBs were available in 10mm and 16mm, I think these would be quite popular.
Tbh I can see why XE-G did not get much attention for flashlight modding… they have a weird footprint, so custom MCPCBs are mandatory, are expensive (in comparison to other emitters) and the performance is also heavily limited by LED chip size and footprint (thermal pad).
And at least the PC cyan variant is also not really usable for flashlights because of the heavy tintshift.
I mean chromaticity shift with operating current (something that is not described in the official datasheet btw). The tint changes heavily. On higher operating current the PC cyan XE-G is visibly more green as cyan and the wavelength peak is heavily shifted as well.
The only real benefit is the availability in a huge range of colors, which is really cool and one of the reason why I like the XE-G nonetheless
That my fear turned out to be unreasonable.
I had a stupid assumption that solder blobs might be under the film or that the film is glued to the mcpcb.
But nope, solder blobs are exposed, so after using a wick everything came off nicely.
Polish my Hanko Trident Tesseract flashlight, leaving a bit of stonewash in the grooves without going too deep, to make the contrast pop a little more.
T9R Lume1 6A buck + FET with Nightwatch N5-165HPE!
The reflow was a bit difficult for some reason, the emitter was shorted to base of the MCPCB after the first try when checking it with a multimeter, had to position it off center to make it work. The original SFT-40 on the board does look off as well.
But holy heck its fun, and def look much brighter than my M21C SFT-90 + “12A” FET, but its only fair to test it when the 20A buck driver arrive for it.
I swapped out the 4000K 219B with an 1800K 219F in my AAA Astrolux A01. It has always been a nightstand light when needed in the middle of the night so I wanted to make it warmer, much warmer.
The only issue I had, besides getting the pill out, was with the reflector gasket. It was a little too wide to fit between the solder joints so I had to sand it down to make it smaller. Strange it came that way from the factory and that I didn’t notice it before when I did the pencil trick years ago to fix the next mode issue.
It compares very nicely against my 1800K E17As, meaning I like it.