That is literally what I’ve got whipped together here, but I’m running it off of a 21700. I’m playing with a few different ideas for power - but for now we’ll stick with a battery.
Using this driver and the triple 3535 mcpcb from convoy as well! Much love to Simon for making this stuff so affordable
Did you mean the 219B sw45k D200 or the sw40 D200?
I have both so I was curious.
The quad sw40 D200 R9080 LEDs in my Convoy M2 that I modified 6 years ago is still one of my favorite flashlights due to those LEDs! Very nice slightly rosy tint and high CRI. I see they still sell the D200 bin at Illumn which is where I got mine.
they are in fact 219B SW40K D200 from ILLUMN. I bought a few with a battery order a few years back, and liked them a lot. so I got more. think I still have 10 bare ones left.
I’m pretty sure all my SW45K are D220, they’re all from Hank and Simon from 2021-2025. I like them too. I’ve been thinking of swapping my KR4 TiCu for the SW40K, it has DD 519a 5700k and 4500k currently, same as one of my DW4s. My TiCu D4V2 will get something warmer, maybe SW27K, it has W2s currently but I never use it.
Not so much flashlight related, but I polished the base of my AliExpress mini plane, and reprofiled and sharpened the blade. These are quite fun little tools, worth the money when they’re on offer.
Im looking to swap lhp531 into my q8+ aswell. Honestly the tint on the xhps are hideous. Did you reuse the same led gaskets that came stock? also were there any issues i should keep in mind while doing it? Otherwise is it straight foward?
I used the same gaskets.
I needed to use higher temp (350C) to desolder wires. Also the leds pcb is big and requires lots of heat to warm up. While I wasn’t able to do it with hot air gun, I went straight forward with hot plate so I strongly recommend to use it.
Others than that, it’s easy to do.
A simple, but very effective mod on an H2 that my adult son is getting for Christmas. It has a 5700K (his choice) B35AM LED and I was a little disappointed with the beam since it has a slight, but noticeable, donut hole and rings.
So I cut out some DC-Fix #3 and installed it under the lens. And in case you didn’t know, #3 is a lightly frosted thin plastic sheet. Here’s where you can get some (and other kinds too) from our friend @Boaz if you are interested: DC-Fix Diffusion Film ,Amber and Zircon minus green filters
Decided to swap the sft40 3000k in my convoy pocket rocket to a sft70 3000k. I didn’t realize when I disassembled that my driver was taller than my pill’s cavity, so I needed to solder the driver to the pill. First time for me, but went off without a hitch. Got to braze and solder for this project.
Also had to pull the sft70 off a board, because I’d originally planned it to go with a 20mm mcpcb.
UniquFire UF-1504. Huge glass lens and tons of meat ready for the heat. Unfortunately there’s an aluminium pill accommodating 16mm LED PCB and 17mm driver.
Still fair enough for 5A Convoy driver, both springs bypassed and Sony VTC6 paired with SFT-25R.
Haven’t done any measurement but judging by the eye and experience the throw is between 1200 and 1400 meters.
Sprayed the black matt paint on the interior to reduce reflexes as much as possible, but still the rings are present when directed on the wall. There’s also a tiny donut hole.
Despite my efforts, the beam isn’t perfect. open for any hints how to smooth it.
Nonetheless the throw is imppresive. Spill is also nice (except for that tiny hole in the middle) but the Jaxman Z1 spill still remains as top1 for me.
I bought this little light used, and the seller didn’t specify which model it is. The reflector is very deep, so I’m assuming that this is a s6 from an unknown manufacture date. It would likely be more difficult (for me) to machine the pill deeper, and the shelf didn’t appear to be thick enough to really accommodate that. I also don’t have the setup for all that. Driver is a 17mm 6v5amp boost driver from convoy - this one 17mm 6V 5A boost driver - Convoy flashlight
Brazing the pill was fun to do and it reminded me that I can! Just flux it heavily, hit it with a small butane torch for a bit and flow that solder. If I’d thought about it a little better I would’ve copied what the plumbers always seem to do after applying their solder/bead, which is to smear/wipe it down with a simple piece of cloth. Would’ve been far better/picture perfect had I remembered to do that