I’m not sure I follow. Wouldn’t that get the same result as plugging a usb cable into the light and trying to use it? I don’t have that light but I think most of my lights in that situation at most give you a moonlight or low mode when plugged in. The firmware will detect the input voltage and act accordingly. But maybe I don’t understand what you’re testing.
Only moonlight or low, right?
my powerbank showed it pulling 7 watts, which is pretty bright (*indoors, at night time, at least)
I’m very pleased with this experiment - I’ll likely extend out the switch and house this somewhere that works!
Does the UI work like normal? All the modes?
i made it to the 3-click strobe mode, and now I’m blinded.
This is the driver I’m playing with: 28mm 3V 8A driver for M3-C M21D M26D with SFT40 KW CULPM1.TG - Convoy flashlight
So it seems yes - not sure how it’ll respond to the battery check, but clicking the switch with it floating and partially blinded isn’t v easy
This power bank is a hefty one - so I’d say that the driver tops out at just below 7w draw from the usb port, but it’s quite bright for what it is.
I swapped the leads from the driver with 18awg wire, and there was a big blob of solder from the factory bridging a resistor leg to the neutral pad - so I cleaned that up (though it was probably fine as is)
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Whelp, I’m blinded too now! I soldered on an MCPCB and just tried plugging a USB cable into a Wurkkos TS11 (anduril) driver I had lying around and it worked. It has a lighted switch and it showed green for charging. As I ramped up in output it turned red. My inline USB meter showed about 0.4A max but that may have been due to running it off a Ryobi radio’s USB output. As-is, it’s plenty bright for the lamp I have in mind.
I’ll experiment more another time but this is fantastic if it holds up. I’d never heard of anyone doing that before. Kind of a “duh” moment, isn’t it? This could open a lot of opportunities for DIY lamps and other lighting. Awesome work figuring that out!
Thank you!
I really like LEDs and lighting in general. I’ve been playing with wled for a bit over a year and have a few cool projects with it that I’ve gotten done, and have wired tons of physical LED infrastructure for residential stuff. I’d like to figure out doing a esp32 controlled hybrid “digital” leds with analog leds as well.
Out of work at the moment and just playing with my free time!
USBC has a 5V 3A specification that’s probably the easiest for this. There’s little USBC female breakout boards that have the resistors in already needed to draw 5V 3A from the power supply, the only slightly tricky bit is finding one that can supply it. I’ve connected this up to a 3V 5A convoy buck driver and it seems happy. I’ve tried two USBC power supplies and one was able to turbo, the other was not quite able, so I swapped the sense resistor on the driver to lower the output to 3V 3A or so and now it works well.
I’m also looking at building a USBC lamp, and I’m looking at using a DPDT hardware switch to choose temperature of light (installed downstream of driver)
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Did some emitter swaps today. 219B SW40K D200 into the Jetbeam Jet-1 MK twisty, much nicer than the (I think) XPG3 cool white.
the other day I swapped a 2700K NTG35 into my Eagtac D3C Ti, and WOW does it look good. That light will not be swapped again, now. I had ordered 4, so I put the rest into my Reylight Gemini (driver swapped to MTN-17DDm Bistro, FWD clicky). Aqua glow gasket. I don’t have pics of the light afterwards.
SFT-25R into an S2 non-plus, except my last 3V8A driver isn’t working at all, so I’ll have to get another. not sure if I want to bother with reflowing that LED for another light, although I’ve thought about putting it into an FW1A (currently CULPM1 with a random Jackson reflector).
719A 2700K into my S6, replacing the 4500K B35AM. that emitter will go into a KR1 when I can find my OLGA-S TIR. I seem to have misplaced the bag of most of my TIR lenses.
This is as close as this phone can get to eye accurate. the XPLs do not appear this green, and the 719A does not appear that rosy. the FFLs are also more rosy. my old terrible phone’s manual settings could get beamshots perfectly, I don’t know why this one won’t. if there’s more than one light, at least one looks inaccurate in DUV. possibly I will try an camera app from the play store.
later tonight I may put warmer emitters into my TiCu D4V2, and swap its W2s into my D4S, replacing its SFT40 5000Ks. I do not like how green the D4S TIR makes them.
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Also in my opinion the NTG35 2700K looks better under a reflector. it has angular tint shift, I tried three different TIRs. 10507, 10511, and the Reylight Dawn one. The D3C has magenta ARC glass, and the Gemini has an uncoated sapphire lens.
NTG35 4200K (D3A Ti) VS 2700K (D3C Ti). I’m convinced that the NTG35 and FFL351A are pretty much the same emitter. my single 4200K looks exactly like my FFL351A 4000K rosy to me, which seems great. considering the tint lottery that I’ve read about with the FFL emitters. I bought ten each of FFL351A 4000K (rosy) and 5000K neutral at least 18 months ago. I really like them both, the 5000K seems dead on neutral.
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I was thinking something similar. A lamp-sized host gives lots of space for things like this that you wouldn’t find in a flashlight. I haven’t looked too hard, but a lot of the DPDT switches are flimsy (at least on AE) and wouldn’t like a few amps running through them. Let us know if you find one.
Dang - you’re right!
I offered to dispose of some old coworkers e-waste for them (their old used disposable vapes) and have hacked some ports out of those w the proper resistors (*I think!).
I’ll wire that up and give it a go!
Thank you for reminding me that I’ve got them components on hand!
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Congrats on your mods and thanks for the photos
agree
Jackson has confirmed this. There is sometimes just more Tint variation in FFL orders.
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Thanks for letting me know. The 5009R and NTG50 look the same as well, but I haven’t tried either of my 4000K/4200K ones yet, only the 3V 5000K. waiting on parts from Jackson for my D1K
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3d printed a pretty shade for my jar lamp that I’ve been playing with. Didn’t photo document this build and am planning on building a second one to potentially enter into the competition (which means that I can gift this to family for xmas!)
Debating printing a cap insert but for the time being I like it being left open at the top.
File for the shade came from here (*a very cool project that I’ve tweaked a number of times for different things) - big props to the creator! Lampi - LED Strip Lamp by mikeg1130 | Download free STL model | Printables.com
Still waiting on parts to finish this out properly (switch cover and thinner gauge silicone wires), but I’m quite pleased!
edit - I suppose this shade means that I can’t really call this the jar lamp any longer
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I love this project! I was digging the jar but this is definitely better. Looking forward to see the finished project.
Looking good! I like the rough wood contrasting with the fancy shade.
The girlfriend wears glasses and has astigmatism - she’d reported massive glare and problems from the facets on the raw jar. I can obviously put whatever there, and the thought is still to try etching cream for frosting the glass.
Still just playing! Thanks for the encouragement!
'twould be v cool to have a emisar triple channel driver in there with 2x1800k, 1 red, and 1 blue. I have a dual channel with red+blue that I really like the candle mode in. So many options!
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Awesome project. Im envisioning a disassembled s21e with anduril 2 and a triple. Embedded into a timber base, with a nice shade like this. Push button operation and dc power.
Candle mode 
Definitely on the to do list if i ever build an electronics desk in the shed.
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