Thank ye
I do have one of those MTN boards, but I only bought it because of the 3030 pads to make a CSLPM1.TG triple S2+. I wondered how the secondaries would look under the optic, yours seems like a much better layout.
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I’m not very familiar with the Quark, but That looks quite nice. Probably a bit less rosy than the FFL351A 4000K, which can look too rosy during the day?
Am I correct in assuming that the FourSevens lights are no longer available?
I managed to order a single NTG35 in 4200K, as that’s all Jackson had in stock I think. I will order some more when Hank’s site releases the KR1AA. The 4200K NTG is probably going to go into a Reylight.
I did get three of the 2700K NTG35s. I think I’ll put them into my brass FW3A or brass XT3.
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I just ordered this Quark as they are 30% off right now on the Foursevens site. I really like this light. Especially with the new emitter. It’s a square beam with the aspheric lens kit but I won’t use that. It’s definitely less rosy. I have those ffla emitters too and I like them a lot. NTG and FFLA are my favorites right now. Really liking the warmer tints as well.
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added magnets (10x5mm) to the black clips (S,N,S,N)
HD10/12 can be pointed almost anywhere you need it as long as its mounted vertically
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I’ve been playing with this idea in my head for a while, and finally whipped some of it together. Still waiting on a few parts (my order from JLHawaii was lost over a month ago and he still hasn’t shipped a replacement) so the switch is just floating with a bogus solder job. I’ve got a bunch of scrap stainless steel sheet metal - I plan on layering the bottom with a piece and possibly building a makeshift reflector around my headsink, but I like where this has gone so far (and I’m learning!)
Right now I’ve just got a convoy s21e driver running anduril hacked in there, running a SFN-40 @3000k and a da1k optic just resting atop that. It will likely exclusively run in candle mode - which I love.
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Did my first sorta kinda proper mod today. Changed an old s21a from xhp50.2 5000k snot rocket to sft70 3000k.
Its the wife light. Group 9 (50%, 10%, 1%, 0.1%) no memory. She has zero patience for interfaces and buttons. Can’t work convoys or emisars. Just wants to press a button and it work. Without melting off her delicate like a flower lady skin 
.
It also has a pink illuminated switch so she knows its the one.
It gets warm of course. But just toasty. Not lava. Her words.
Ended up with the 23.3mm 5050 tir 25 deg lens. Looks magic. Will update post later with some nightime beamshots. I use a pretty old phone. Ceiling shots dont domit justice.
Thanks for those that helped me in the thread:
The orange tree in the pics is about 15m away, the forest is about 50m away. All on 50% locked at 5000k.
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after a year I decided to install the chip made by @ebastler on the wurkkos HD10 test flashlight (This version did not have accessible flashing pads)
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That is a cool little project. I think a piece of copper under the globe would be cool and might give a great warm reflection.
Thank you! I will give this a try. I’m also considering getting some glass etching creme to give the glass a frosted look. I’ll eventually pot a jar lid in silicone once parts are in hand and I’m ready.
Today I did my first emitter swap on a Hank light! I had a dual channel DW4K with sst-20 6500k and 2700k, which was neat in principle, but I really like my warm lights, and was pretty much exclusevly running it with just the 2700 channel.
Well it now has a pair of FFL351a 1800k in with the mix, and I am very happy with the results. Not the prettiest solder job, and I was surprised at how easy it was to reassemble this light. I was fearing I was opening a can of worms.
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Nice job! Those pads on the aux board are a PITA, aren’t they?
Honestly my biggest challenge was desoldering the main MCPCB, because I didn’t realize that I could lift the aux board once it was desoldered - so fitting my tip down in the tiny sliver gap was a trick. Honestly the process was far easier than I’d expected, and I’m very very pleased with the results
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You should be. It looks great!
Do you have some more beamshots of this?
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I’ll try to get more beamshots
Trying out some things with some electronics - I’d love to know how to better feed/control this 3P 3535 board that I’ve populated with FFL351A 1800k emitters. Right now it’s powered from a 1amp USB wall plug that feeds a cheap buck converter that is then wired to the MCPCB. I imagine that if I were to feed a convoy driver this way it would work, but I don’t know if would be happy being so under powered. I also don’t understand power/drivers well enough to know if that circuit would be happiest with a linear, buck, or FET driver.
Appreciate any and all advice. The idea behind these attempts is pretty residential lighting. Right now I’m just playing, and have the LEDs poorly screwed down to a small aluminum heatsink that is easily dissipating the 5w that are being fed to it.
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I’ve been thinking about making a USB-powered lamp too but haven’t started playing around with it yet. I’m curious if one of those USB-C charging boards would work with a flashlight driver. 4.2V, 3A output. Those specs would be great, just don’t know how it would behave if connected to a driver rather than battery.
Based on a quick look, most of the other USB C boards I’m seeing are boost converters or PD spoofers. We need to get the 5V min down to 4V or so. Some drivers might be ok with 5V, while others might smoke. I’m sure there are many cheap ICs that could do that at a few amps but I’d have to research more.
You could also base it around a 12V wall wart, adjustable buck converter, and flashlight driver. That should get you in the 4V 3A range easily enough for the driver.
I’m not sure on the driver type. For buck and linear I’d target a driver with similar max output current to the input current just to be safe. I’d be cautious about fet. I have an anduril fet driver that I plan on using for my project and I’ll do some tests to make sure the fet doesn’t cause overcurrent problems, otherwise I’ll adjust the ceiling and disable turbo to make the powe supply/buck converter happy.
I have a Convoy M21D/M26D in hand that I’m dissecting and about to try a couple of things with it. First is to see what sort of power it’ll deliver via just it’s onboard usb-c port - if any. If that works, great! If not, I’ll solder leads from my buck converter module there (* https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806282476168.html ) and see what performance that delivers.