From where you got the led please?
JLHawaii still has a limited amount of them, but they are expensive. Plus I have some I scavenged from old lights.
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From Fireflies but they are not available at the moment. Only 1800K are available
Remove this if it isn’t allowed since it’s not a light?
Haven’t really modded any lights or anything else for a few months, but since I have had my newer Xbox controller disassembled waiting on new analog sticks (series x stick drift), I decided to see if I could emitter swap my One S controller. It also got new sticks since I was wearing out its first replacement pair. They’re a bit too red imo.
No idea what emitter this is, but an 0603 fit pretty well, although it is smaller than the original.
It might be brighter than the stock LED, but I have it set at 50% normal, 20% for night mode, really nicely dim.
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I didn’t think of this until now, after looking at the datasheet again, but I forgot red LEDs are ~2V. So far it’s been fine, but I’m not sure if there could be issues down the line.
I took the red X logo inlay out of the guide button and sanded the shiny chrome-ish coating away, underneath is a slightly translucent white plastic. That possibly allowed for a bit more light to pass through. I might try a blue or “purple” one in my series controller, but I’m not sure how much the newer style of guide button would change the look. They’re hollow and dark “translucent black” instead of solid almost opaque white plastic.
I made a mule for a S21g by soldering some stacked laser cut copper spacers while I was waiting for my NV1010 emitter, tonight I put everything together.
The mcpcb is holden by pressure by a copper colar soldered to the mule, the extra solder balls are there just to ensure the emitter clearance.
Still need to bypass or replace the driver spring with a brass button, a little disappointed with the current… but even though this thing is incredibly bright at ~20a!
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NEW LED???
Yeah, available from Convoy:
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This morning I cleaned the mcpcb, replaced the driver spring with brass button and tailcap switch with a double spring rated at 20a 
Now getting 30a with a fully charged EVE 21700-50PL
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That’s the 22mm “12A” fet driver, right?
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Yes, got it with the emitter.
Not sure if I’ll stay with it, thinking about putting a H17Fx but I have no ideia how would it affect the current.
I’m surprised this driver delivers the amount of current. I got one in L21A with XM-MR and another one in S21G with triple XP-L. I never measured the current though. Got another one planned for S21G or S21B build with SFP55.
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That would be with the tail switch out of the circuit though?
I have no idea how to measure the current with the tailcap in place.
But I would guess that a properly bypassed tailcap should not be a lot worse than this old random “long” wire I used to measure here.
I can try reading their resistances with a LCR meter…
Today I failed miserably at modding my Lumintop Tool AA 
. My needle nose tweezers in the driver holes just bent, so i took the driver out and tried some circlip pliers. These still didnt do it so I put my hot air rework station at 450C and left it sat in the airflow for ten minutes or so. Still no movement sweating & swearing with pliers outside & circlip pliers in the driver wire holes. Very much not my best work.
Does anyone have any tricks for getting this thing apart?
Interestingly the hot air has made the reflector surface bubble up kind of like a rough OP reflector, i wonder if this can be used to smooth out a ringy beam
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I have read that the Lumintop Tool AA pill has reverse threads:
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Looks good
That’s gonna have a little spice to it.
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