What do I need for programming ATtiny25?

I’m also planning on getting some stuff from the Swedish Farnell site. If you’re going to order we could share the shipping cost. I think shipping is 70 or 80 sek.

I’ve had a look at the data-sheet, it doesn’t look like much work, but maybe some of it has already been done. In the zip from the Star download link (Blf-firmware) there is a ATtiny25 folder. I haven’t tried it yet though.

If you want one ASP you can get one from me. As we are on the same side of town I can drop by.

min Svenska is not perfect (yet), but seems it’s not possible because it’s only for companies :confused:

you can give it another shot perhaps.

I’d be in for cca 5pc, if you can manage to create the privatkund order you can add 5pc for me. Appreciate the offer for the 1pc delivery, but I’d need more than one anyway.

I called farnell and we swedes can’t buy as private individual directly from them, but they recommended i order through https://www.microkit.se instead, i called them it looks to work out great :slight_smile: they charge 69kr in shipping for an order of up to 500kr.

so 8$ for shipping, that’s not terrible (comparing to the cost of other things (i.e. air ) in Sweden :slight_smile:

Yeah it is kind of horrible that you can get excited by an ONLY 8$ shipping here :wink:

And sorry, remembered it wrong it was 69kr not 65kr in shipping. i have edit my previous post to fix that., so about 8,5$.

But it is still cheaper than farnell who charge 70+moms on shipping, and under 500kr orders from microkit you get it straight in the mailbox :slight_smile: also.

While we’re at it - what is the reason not to go for attiny45 or 85? they have 4k/8k, I think 25’s 2k could become a limitation easily.

They are only available in a somewhat bigger package, which is an issue on tight boards.

I’m really not knowledgeable here, but isn’t any of these the same as tiny13a’s package from nanjg105c?

I’d like to be able to use the standard 105c’s board and just switch the MCU.

edit: datasheet:

what is the 13a’s package used in nanjg105c?

While both the 25 and 85 come in SOIC8, which is what the 13A that comes on the 105c is, there are different size SOIC8 packages. The 13A we use is the smallest SOIC8 variant @ 150mil, the 25 and 85 SOIC8 variants are 208mil. They wont fit on a 105C’s 150 mil SOIC8 pad.

*Note I pulled those number’s from memory

To anyone interested, I did some research on this when I was making my tripe S10 driver for DrJones RGBW FW and I think I remember that the smallest available one was either a DFN or QFN package (in the end I made a 2 board stack and just used a standard 208mil 85).

Also remember that there are two versions of the attiny25. The attiny25 and the attiny25v (different operating voltage range; different peak clock frequency).

They can be used on the same footprint as the ATtiny13a if you carefully bend the legs back under it and use hot air to solder it.

The 13A we use is 150mil 8S1 package, order code is Attiny13A-SSU. The bigger one is 208mil 8S2 package, order code is Attiny13A-SU.
The 25 also has 150mil S8S1 package, order code Attiny25-SSU and 208mil 8S2 package, order code Attiny25-SU.
The 45 and 85 do not have 150mil package.

Is it possible to use the attiny13a-mmu that is smaller, with the normal attiny13a firmware? but how would you program it? is it only possible before the reflow?

  • Yes, it’s possible to use the normal firmware.
  • In-system programming - Wikipedia We normally use ISP to program it using an SOIC clip. Since that package can’t be clipped a person would have to have contact points broken out in the circuit for all of the ISP.

Or you can program it with a breakout board before reflowing it onto the board.

From the Oshpark Projects Thread

Oops, I misinterpreted the question slightly.

I do think that having pins on the driver to hook to (obviously some existing pins can serve double duty) may also be useful.

Aha, so that how it is done, solder point on the board that is connected to the pins, that you solder a wire to and connect that to the programmer, and then when you are satisfied with the setup you just remove those wires.