Edit
This is very interesting RMM, that would make the hookup much easier
Have you done any projects with the -MMU size?
EDIT2
I don’t have the skill to do this yet, but i imagine a tiny driver with very small smd components, a tiny FET and the attiny13a-mmu for easier fit (and in some cases makes it possible) in smaller lights
Mikrotik sells them for $1.5per pc + $8.5 shipping (Sweden)
Datasheet for ATtiny13
Datasheet for ATTiny25/ATtiny45/Attiny85
Question 1: Is this the 208mil package mentioned earlier as the smallest package for the 85? yes it is,
Question 2: Will the SOIC clip used for Attiny13A clip onto this one? There are some differences between 8S1 and 8S2 packages, but I can’t be sure if the Regular pomona SOIC8 clip can tolerate it or not.
Question 3: Which version of the 85 to order: 10Mhz:1.8-5.5V or 20MHz: 2.5-5.5V ?
That’s the smallest SOIC package, other packages are flat-no-leads packages.
The SOIC clip will fit both 150mil and 208mil.
I’d get the low voltage version. It’s not a big deal though. Check the voltage/freq list/table at the top of the datasheet. Subtract 0.2v from the lowest battery voltage we plan to run the MCU from (2.8v?). Make sure the MCU can do 4.8Mhz at that low voltage.
however I read that the attiny itself will not shutdown automatically on low voltage, but rather you yourself should shut it down using brownout detection to prevent issues, such as eeprom corruption.
Since Attiny85 is designed to run at 10MHz at 2.7V, I’m hoping that it can tolerate 4.8MHz@2.5V
So, of course I ordered two attiny85, normal version, to settle this for the future.
The attiny25 shuts off at around 2.8V-2.9V (remember, there is a voltage drop from the diode), at least in my testing it does at 8 MHz. At 4MHz it should go a little lower.
You are dreaming if you think it will go down to 2.5V, especially with a diode in place.
At those low voltages , below 3.0V, LED would be running in moon mode, with a few mA.
The specs draw this diagram of “safe operating area”
page 163
So I was thinking that there should be a margin, I’m only looking at 10% lesser voltage at half of the frequency, in my CPU overclocking career that should be achievable.
However, in a few weeks I’ll know for sure, I just have to, so if there’s a chance it can work, I don’t have to order 85V in the future, even if it’s a long shot.
I’ve read about a brownout detection fuse, perhaps it can be disabled to disable automatic shutdown (if one happens), and then I would anyway manually go to “sleep” at 2.5V.
edit: c/p from the spec:
“VBOT may be below nominal minimum operating voltage for some devices. For devices where this is the case, the
device is tested down to VCC = VBOT during the production test. This guarantees that a Brown-out Reset will occur
before VCC drops to a voltage where correct operation of the microcontroller is no longer guaranteed. ”
I apologise if I insulted anybody with my impulse buy But 85V is basically double the price.
Is the diode there only for reverse polarity protection?
Yeah, seems that when the package is worth more they want to send it traceable and signed for, which costs them more. I called them up to see if they had a limit and the guy on the phone started to explain to me how small the margins are in this business, and that they basically are only money shifters.