To focus correctly, the step on the legs has to sit on the top of the MCPCB. So either trim off the bottom of the locating pegs, or drill oversize holes in the pill for the pegs to drop down into.
Cool, good to know.
Thx
Whoa dude.
That’s one heck of a 3 year thread necro…
Next time just make a new thread and post your question in it.
In my opinion this seems like the correct place to put it. As stormrider88 said, there’s little reason to spread the information out!
It’s never bad to include extra details like which optic and which LED. Especially for those who aren’t around much ( 
) it can be helpful.
Anyway I think that as long as the shoulder on the plastic legs is sitting on the MCPCB you should have the correct distance. It looks like this is the case in your picture, so good. The only thing I can’t remember at the moment is whether using XP-L vs XP-G makes a difference… they have different dome heights, but the die is at the same height.
Anybody else want to chime in?
I’ve built many many Eagle Eye X6 triples using this 32mm MCPCB and CUTE-3 optics, with anything from XP-L HI to de-domed XP-L HD’s, Nichia 219C and 319A. As well as XM-L2 and XHP-50. Without this MCPCB, these triples are much more difficult to produce. The Raysoon F13 also works well with these, and many others. And then there are those lights that you just want a heavy duty copper DTP board for a single XHP-35 or XP-L2….
Thanks for reminding me, I need to pick up some more of these….
I second wight (hi, long time no see 
) , the legs should be flush on the board, that is the correct height for most domed leds.
Not really, this isn’t about this specific PCB, nor is it about the question in the OP.
His question was about distance between LED and optic, completely unrelated to this topic other than “im using this same PCB”
Maybe take quick google at what “thread necroing” is?
There is no problem with “spreading information out” that’s literally why there are subforums and thousands of different threads on forums.
Man Ck has been gone a long time! Welcome back wight!!
It’s called forum etiquette.
This is BLF so I fixed that for you!!! 
On BLF there is a solid tradition of necroing old threads. And I’m for it, it brings back memories, and sometimes forgotten but interesting information.
Perhaps bringing back old threads to life is a good thing on fora that are particularly content-rich, like BLF.
Amen brother! :+1:
I have/had one of Ck’s wild Yezel Y3’s with his driver in it, it had a few modes of his crazy strobe(s), never seen nothing like it since!
I need to borrow it back, just to reminisce…
What a load of self serving rubbish.
Well I for one will not click the rude button, behind your back that is, it has been clicked.
Cheers David
+1
When Enderman said you were a necro I completely disagreed with him, however that rant of yours was rude, swearing is not allowed neither is attacking other members and it deserved a rude button press and if that puts me in some category imagined by you, so be it, I have worn fire proof pants around forums for a lot of years.
Cheers David, who is not going to bite again.
Kinda agree with stormrider, plus he made me laugh
Yeah me too! :person_facepalming: :person_facepalming:
About the question:
I would say those optics are designed to use ‘as is’ on a triple LED board, so i would keep the gap there.
Since the Ledil SS is a TIR optic, it’s better to have the gap, because then the angle at which the light hits the parabola is shallower and the reflection will be better (higher % )
please! let us never use the word “necroing” ever again in life, agreed?