Today the lantern enclosure from Kai arrived, fits good on my UF WF-501C (modded for 2AA and Solarforce 3-mode LVD). Like it better than the SF lantern which would require to remove bezel rings and not to mention that it is 3 times cheaper. If you own a 501 and need a lantern... buy it.
Kawasaki S1 - the first 250 to hit 100mph. Remove the head gasket, grind the head and barrels flat, put in two base gaskets, open the ports as far as you dare, mirror polish them for extra madness - actually that should have been 15800 now I think of it.
Remove the airbox (and wear hearing protection, it got a bit loud), stretch a bit of speaker grille foam over the carb stubs so you can pretend the air is being filtered. Beef up the 2 stroke oil pump for that wonderful cloud of pollutants.
And never, ever shut the throttle fast - it melted the centre piston on the overrun when you did that.
It was almost usable - unless it was raining. Usually in the wet only one cylinder would light up at which point your average old lady going up a hill using a walking frame could overtake you (This happened to me - a lot of people laughed at me.). When the other two cylinders finally got in on the act, hit the back brake hard before the thing spits you off. Oh yes and change the sparkplugs roughly every time you fill the tank. And use cooler plugs when you go out of town or melt the engine.
Fuel (and sparkplugs) were cheaper then.
Then came the Yamaha YPVS devices which were just as demented (if considerably more rideable) out of the factory but had an engine (if not rider) life of more than 5000km. At the time they were learner legal here and there was a high fatality rate amongst learners.
Yes, people used to race the Norton one. Tip seals were the usual problem - as in new engines rather too often. They were a bit like the infamous VF500 from Honda. "When the oil light comes on, put it on a trailer and take it to a Honda dealer for a new engine"
No I hadn't. Must check it out at weekend when I have some time. Thanks. At a quick glance all the stuff there looked really good and really expensive...
I bought one of the lanterns to but it did not fit my 501B.
Really ? Different threads? Might have to doublecheck with a 501b from a friend. My UF 501C is a SuperFire WF-501c in reality, but I thought all 501 heads are the same.
It does fit an old Superfire WF-501D that I have.
Maybe a Superfire 501b would fit then?
P.S.: UF WF-501B also fits.
Superfire 501C above, Ultafire 501B below
So there are different versions of the 501b?
Mine won't fit a 501B, but it fits fine on a 504B and a (KD) Solarforce L2. I prefer that arrangement anyway as both of those tailstand very well.
Not a flashlight but at least light related:
35W HID kit for my car.
$55 delivered from China in 2 days. Impressive work by DHL i must say.
Bought it here if anyone's interested: http://myworld.ebay.com/mydepots/
Two days?? That’s insane and the price deliverd is pretty damned crazy too!
Clarification:
DHL needed 2 days to their part.
I ordered on Sunday and had the package in my hand at my house on Friday. The Ebay-store (mydepots) didn't have my bulb in stock when I ordered so it took until Wednesday before they shipped. So 5 days in total is good but DHL is the impressive part in this.
Even at 5 days the whole deal is still impressive to me. 
Yep, being used to shop from DX and such I got a bit surprised by the speed.
I've just installed the kit in the car but sadly it's not getting dark for another 5 hours so I can't try it yet. Since the kit takes power from the original socket it's very easy to install, basically plug and play EXCEPT that they had reversed + and - in the socket that takes power. But a small flat headed screwdriver and 10 seconds later that problem was solved.
Can't wait for darkness. 
Summer in Nordic countries is way too bright and sunny for true flashaholics. It's not completely dark even at midnight.
I like that 501x lantern idea; I assume it just replaces the head and uses your existing dropin? I would have to buy a new dropin to use since my current dropin is so tightly packed with foil it would be impossible to swap easily...
Received my UNI-T UT33A today (took about 2 weeks). Nice built quality, fast detection, clear display, small form factor (a little bit fatty, 35mm height) fits nicely in hand. Would be great to have temp. test and backlight instead of transistor hFE test. Don't know why, but while in V DC, readings are constantly falling or raising, i mean, it's not like "-0.001, -0.002, -0.001, 0.001" but like this, i.e.: "0.001, -0.002, -0.006, -0.010, -0.015, -0.023..." (in mV, not V). When I crossover the leads it shows 0.000. Readings while testing are great, according to the manual "3 times per second". My MF UF XM-L drop-in gives me 1.5-1,7A with 3,8V cell. Leads seems to be good quality also, don't know if I should buy those grey ones @ DX for $4 or so.
On the way: digital caliper and XTAR A01 with XTAR cell (both for a gift) :)
Don - still, 15,800 rpm is plenty fast.
ontopicFoy