Got a Klarus Mi7 and a Convoy S2+ in warm white. To be honest, I’m not impressed with the claimed 700 lumen output of the Klarus. It doesn’t seem any brighter than my original Zebralight 500 lumen SC52. I’ll check it later when it get’s dark. BTW, I’m using Keeppower 800mAh 14500’s in both.
The Convoy on the other hand, is very impressive. It’s got the 7135 x 8 driver and is very bright.
Edit: just compared the Karius Mi7 to my Olight S1 Baton. The S1 blows it away!! Bigger and brighter hotspot projected on a white wall. I’m sorry I bought the Mi7!
Have you tried a ceiling bounce test to compare lumens?
Sometimes just looking at the hotspot doesn’t properly compare lumens. A light might have a dimmer hotspot, but actually produce more lumens in a floodier beam (brighter or wider spillbeam, wider hotspot, etc.)
Quick-n-Dirty Ceiling bounce test:
Go into a dark room with the two lights you want to compare, one in each hand.
Raise the both lights over your head and point them at the ceiling.
Tilt your head down and look at the floor at your feet. The lights and their associated hotspots should not be in your field of view at all. Do not look at ceiling.
Turn one light on while looking at an object on the floor. Leave the light on for 5 seconds or so, then turn it off and immediately turn on the light in your other hand.
Compare the brightness of the object on the floor. Does it look brighter with light A or light B or both the same? Repeat turning on and off the lights in this manner. the only light hitting the floor object should be diffuse light from the light hitting the ceiling and then reflecting around the room to the floor.
Optional: Instead of turning the lights on/off you can achieve the same result by turning both on, but then pressing the bezel of one of your lights into your chest while the other is pointed at the ceiling, and then swapping the positions. This is helpful for lights that have UIs which make turning them on or off quickly awkward.
Determining the result:
If the floor is noticeably brighter with one light, then that light is producing at least 20% more lumens.
If the brightness looks the same and you can’t tell which is brighter then the output of the lights is within 20% of each other.
If the floor looks twice as bright with one light then that light is producing approximately 4x as many lumens.
Sorry for the delayed response. I sent my Mi7 to a BLF buddy of mine. I couldn’t deal with it anymore. I’m sure he’ll chime in and agree with my findings. I’ve got close to 50 flashlights. That said, I’ve never been more disappointed with a purchase than I am right now.
Got a UNI-T UT210E AC/DC current clamp for $28.51 from Banggood. It’s nicely built and pretty accurate. You can’t beat it for the price. Coupon Code B0E23F
Current reading compared to my Fluke 189
Voltage comparison with an 18650 right off the charger.
I got a Archon V10S diving light in today and had immediately time to swap the led. I bought it for a friend who is a frequent diver but has a weak (but reliable) flashlight sofar. She wanted more light, not too throwy and of good light quality to show colours well (nearby). So I removed the cool white led and swapped it with a XM-L2 5D2 tint 80 CRI (my last one). The max went down from 900 lumen to 650 lumen, but the tint is way better now. I hope that I have closed up the front well enough to keep the water out. At least the light is rated for 60 meter and she never dives deeper than 30 meter.
My impression of the light is that it is rather chunky for a tube-style 18650 light, but that the build quality of the housing is outstanding, I have no trouble believing that it really works down to the promised 60 meter (nice ano colour btw). I did not remove the driver to have a look at it, another Archon light I have looked at before (D10U) had a standard chinese middle-of-the-road driver. A plus is that this light does not show PWM at the low level. And the clear battery level indicator led is a great feature (and useful under water).
great to go with my MM18 II, mm15 and C26 collection 
