You are a clever man unknown00101. You must’ve zoomed in to read those prices.
I’ll do package number two tomorrow. Also I need to fix a few grammatical errors but I’ll do that tomorrow as well I don’t care right now.
where did u purchase these please?
You didn’t give much else to go on. The listed price doesn’t really tell much, usually they undervalue by a LOT. Usually it’s safe to x2/3/4… I was going to guess 1405/1504 zoomy in the other based on some comments. Oh well.
Damn, that’s one long detailed post for “I’m dead tired so this will be quick”.
You wouldn’t get that out of me when I’m dead tired.
You’d get four words: “Dead tired. Maybe tomorrow”
And that’s if I posted at all! :laughing:
Hi saypat, I purchased them at GearBest. $20.32 ea.
I’m pleased with the quality. It’s a lot of flashlight for twenty bucks.
Mitko deserves the credit for telling me about these lights. They are well built and should be able to endure the rigors of being kicked around in the bush.
Actually, I am waiting for an S70. That’s what I thought was in the smaller package. So that was a pretty good guess.
Yes and on top of that, I’m doing this all with an iphone :person_facepalming:
I would like some feedback on picture sizing. I have not actually seen any of my posts on a real PC screen so I don’t know what the pictures are coming out like. I am currently posting them at 80% of size so that I can fit them on my iPhone format but maybe that doesn’t work for computer screens.
Picture size is good btw. When you use the percentage modifier it automagically resizes depending on screen size.
The BLF picture sizing works well on all devices, because it is actually a percentage of screen size. So, on your iPhone it will be 80% of that screen’s size, but on my PC it will be bigger to make 80% of my PC’s screen size. Also, if your post is quoted, it becomes 80% of the “screen” inside the quote block. So, multi-nested quotes will show increasingly smaller picture(s) than the post(s) before.
Edit: Not 80% of total screen, just 80% of the thread post “screen”.
I hate you… Ordered two B158 after reading this post.
Congrats KFF. Those some hansom lights there.
Must . . . resist . . .
I’m currently resisting the Maxtoch M24 Sniper. The force is strong with this one!
Not sure I can wait for overseas shipping. May have to order from Mtn.
Look who’s talking Mr Irresistible Deals. You already cost me an S70, 4 batteries and an S50 when they get back in stock. :money_mouth_face:
Well, I can actually help you out a bit! They are working on a follow up to the M24, read the posts about the 2X by mudgripz and robo819 on the last couple of pages in this thread: GB Interest ///OFFICIALLY CLOSED 11/8 @ 9pm CST/Maxtoch M24 Sniper with XP-L HI /// 250K lux @ 4.3 Amps!!!
Perhaps that can help you to not order a M24? I mean, sure, then you’ll probably order the 2X instead, and that might be more expensive, but still!
Package #2 Courui Gray XM-L2
My first impression, this flashlight is made for big hands. Second impression this thing begs to drive an XM-L2 till it screams. 3 18650s in parallel would allow a hard driven XM-L2 decently long run times. Here’s the major component tear down.
I didn’t measure the head but let’s just say it’s big. The lens is glass but probably not coated. The reflector is a fairly robust piece of aluminum.
The switch stands just a little bit proud and I found myself accidentally turning the light on occasionally while handling it. Also the shroud around the button was loose and easily removed. If It is not tightened, would probably rattle loose. there are no O-rings protecting the switch from moisture. In fact there is nothing preventing water from getting into the driver board area at all.
Proud Button
There are two LEDs on the E-switch. I never saw them illuminated. I assume they are to indicate low batteries. There were two additional solder pads on the back of the switch that were not used so maybe the SMD LEDS have no function.
Lifting up the E-switch, it’s easy to see how water could enter into the driver board area.
Here’s the battery side of the driver board. I attempted numerous times to pry the driver loose but it was in there really tight and I just couldn’t get it to budge. Those wear marks are just as it came out of the box. So certainly somebody’s been twisting some batteries against that before I ever owned it. I’ll give them the benefit of the doubt and say that they were testing it with batteries.
R
I really wanted to get that drive board out so here’s where I got stupid. I inserted a screwdriver through the negative wire hole of the star platform and wiggled around until I was mildly sure that I was not on top of any surface mount components and pounded the crap out of it until the board came loose.
I really don’t understand why this driver board needs to be so complicated. It is only capable of switching to high and then low them off. Repeat. No memory, no flashy modes (thank God) Nothing else.
I pulled up the toroid to expose a chip that could probably launch the shuttle. Somebody smarter than me will need to explain why this thing needs so much intelligence.
I had a heckuva time getting the driver board back in because it’s such a tight fit. I finally resorted to a socket and a steel toed boot and pounded the heck out of it. It did fit.
Of course you’re all wondering whether this thing even works anymore after I abused the board like that? I can assure you it does. That persistent Blue dot with red Corona in my eyes constantly reminds me that it still works. Yeah, I accidentally hit the switch again right in my eye.
Did I mention that all of the threads were bone squeaky dry?
Moving onto the tail cap… Why would they design the board so that it requires a jumper and then, why would they then jumper it with a 26 gage wire?
Why no lanyard hole on the tail cap? OK honestly I never use lanyards anyway so I’m just being nitpicky.
Bottom line… This light has a lot of modding potential. I like that it has three parallel batteries. I don’t mind the fat grip, I have big hands. Dang it, another persistent dot in my eyes. Ive got to put this thing down. I’m not liking the switch. Too easy to accidentally turn on. Also this is not a light that I would throw in the pick up to bounce around and turn itself on regularly. Also would not be good for rainy conditions.
I need to look into what Osh Park boards are available with an E-switch that could push the amps harder than this board does. I’ll try to get some beam shots tomorrow. It’s bedtime.
It doesn’t need, but those old PIC microcontrollers are to common, tested and most of all they are dirt cheap when you are making thousands drivers, most of the bike light use this PIC-s.
P.S. those leds on a switch maybe they could be “activated”! Look at the thin red wire that goes from the switch to driver board, it is soldered in place where connector with 4 contacts should be, 2 of 3 unused contacts are for those 2 leds, mcu is probably programmed to drive those leds so you would just need to connect them. I haven’t tested but you could connect one empty cell (3V), power on flashlight and measure with your DM how much V you get between ground ring and some of those unused contacts…
The last couple of Courui’s I received had the fully populated driver & the LED’s in the switch as well. I think that the boards are shared in other lights, so there’s plenty of spare parts there…
Plenty of Courui mods around here to look at - just do a search on the forum.
Hahahaha love the reviews!
Still waiting on my replacing reflector for the colrui
Love the feel of it
Got mine pretty cheap on AliExpres and did not torn it down so bo idea if the LEDs behind the switch are present.
And yeah needed a bit of the good old organic coconut oil on the threads here too.
Sirius9,
It would be really cool if I new how to activate the battery indicator LEDs. I would turn a new translucent button so the light could shine through. While I was at it I would cut the new button shorter to keep from accidentally Turning the light on all of the time.
I thought I would post a driver out of a Ultrafire C8 that is the exact opposite of the Courui’s overly complicated one. The modes are high, medium, low, strobe and SOS. It does all that with just five resistors, 1 capacitor and one little three legged IC (HG5K1). I tried to look this number up but all I found was a Chinese long-distance cell phone company selling components. Again, somebody smarter than me will have to explain how the HG5K1 IC controls the modes.
amazing photography!
Thanks saypat,
Would you believe I did it with an iPhone?
I held my phone up to a 12.5 X lens to get the close up shot.
Incredible! A testimony to the quality of the camera on an iPhone. I thought it was some nice DSLR Macro lens. That is how they need to be displayed so other more knowledgeable members can see and chime in.