I’m new to the hobby of flashlight collecting, with my only acquired torch currently being a Fenix PD35. Even so, I hastily purchased 4 orbtronic 18650 batteries and a charger to go along with them. Now I’m looking into purchasing another flashlight; one that would serve mainly as a lightpainting device for photography. As such, I’m very interested in lights with high CRI numbers, hence my title.
After doing several hours of research, I’m stuck. My budget is around $60, and from the start I’ve found the EagleTac D25LC2 Clicky Nichia 219b appealing. It is, from what I’ve found, the best Nichia pre-built flashlight - and perhaps one of the cheaper high CRI torches. My question is, given the few downsides of this specific EagleTac light, would it be smarter to build starting from, say, a Solarforce L2T? Are Nichia 219b drop-ins even available for such a build? Alternatively, is there some better high CRI option I’m missing here?
Those are truly impressive! Especially at that price point; pretty hard to resist. Unfortunately, I’m hoping to have a light one week from today (for a trip). I’m still planning on ordering one of those, however. So thank you!!
PFlexPro has a great line of flashlights and offers Nichia 219B emitters in many of them that are within your budget. The line also includes a Solarforce L2P with a Nichia emitter that is just a little over your budget.
pflexpro is a BLF member. IMO he does great work and is very accessible. I think you could message him here with any questions.
[EDIT] the user interface on those lights is quite nice.
The Mini C8 is a pretty wonderful light! My kids use it as much as I do. It has a little throw and really good spill, really a nice mix and it is compact.
It’s really easy to do. Unscrew the torch as though you are putting a new battery in.
Look inside the head:
See the two holes, use some tweezers, circlip pliers or something to unscrew it. This is the pill, the side shown in the pic is the driver. But no need to do anything with it for now. Turn it over once it’s out and you’ll see the LED mounted on a star (like the Nichia above).
All you do is de-solder the positive and negative wires. Put some thermal paste on the back of your new star with the Nichia on. Put it in place and solder the two wires. Then assemble.
Very very easy. Even for a first time doing all of it, it should only take you 20 mins ± from start to finish. And you’ll end up with a nice Nichia torch.
Good advice CD, but I feel obligated to point out that’s a picture of the switch/tailcap side. The driver/pill side will look slightly different. (instructions still the same)
I recommend Manker E14/ Astrolux S41. cuz it has so many options with lumens level and nice hidden features too. Not only that with 18650 tube (need to buy separate less than USD 4) you may get longer run. Keep that in mind it need IMR batteries to get all of the light. NCR18650GA or LG HG2 recommended. Be careful if you are planning to light-paint longer time using High 1 or High 2 because its get really really hot.
Keep in mind if you order directly from them here, for the E2, they put a note that they can make a version with just low-medium-high with no strobe if you want. Just put it in the “remarks” section.
I wish I had know about this when I ordered it from a third party vendor.
I have the Manker E14 and I have been very happy with it. I did buy the 1860 tube from Banggood but I mostly leave it in the 18350 configuration as I like the small size. When hunting season starts I will want the longer run times but for my day to day use I like the smaller size.
There is a good breakdown in post #48 of this thread that is worth a look:
Wasn’t impressed with the jaxman at all . the output is very underwhelming the driver is stone-age stupid compared to whats out there these days and the tints are not visually nice like you want a high cri light to be . the 4000k is lame imho …If people try it i’d understand why they’d shy away from neutrals and call them yellow or green or …Blah !
The 5700 K isn’t a tint i’d suggest either but i’m betting it’s a little better …my advice is avoid both and get a 4500 or 5000k nichia emitter on copper and swap it out .
Mountain Electronics also carries a very nice P60 drop in, the CUXM/CUXP, that is available with a Nichia 219B. It’s about $20 USD with shipping, I assume within the US.
If you don’t have a P60 host, they carry them as well. The only caveat is that the drop in is designed for one Li-Ion cell. Any more than that, or two or more CR123s, and poof!, there goes the Magic Blue Smoke.
Thanks for this! I live in the USA. I’m thinking this is the best option. Floody, cheap, small, and the correct battery type. Plus I have no problem soldering, I’ve done it plenty of times! Thanks again!
