What's the most important thing of a diving light

LED Flashlights – General Info
1

Hi guys,it’s ThorFire,we really want know what’s the key point to make a good diving light.So we are here to ask about your opinion. :wink:

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Warm white LED

3

Easy one handed use, very visible materials, use of glow-in-the-dark sections as well, a good sized lanyard (bearing in mind gloved hands are bigger), maybe have some sort of mask-mount so it can be mounted on your head?

4

I am going to go out on a limb and say the most important thing for a diving light is being waterproof! :smiley:

So, a good tight-tolerance design with primary and secondary body, tail-cap, and head seals would probably be a start. You will want something with a substantial/demonstrable depth-rating IMO.
Lens thickness and switch (boot) design will also be considerations I imagine.

Other potential factors/preferences?

  • LED configuration. The more output the better (1000+ lumens), and something with a fairly floody beam pattern. Multiple-emitter layout?
  • LED type. Many divers use lights for pictures/video (hence the floody preference), so something with a good neutral tint and higher CRI would probably be good.
  • Excellent battery life. With current battery tech, this shouldn’t be difficult. Maybe something 26650 based?
  • UV capability. This is probably not crucial and would certainly complicate things, but diving with a UV light can bring out amazing colors.
    Maybe do a multi-emitter layout that includes1-3 decent-output 365-395nm UV emitter(s).

:beer:

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Water tight and RELIABLE. If it's not, it's not a dive light.

Yes, you need the other qualities mentioned above, but without being reliably water tight it's simply not worth diving with. Divers need to know their light is not going to quit on them.

6

So much this! Reliability is the most important thing.

Then handy UI.

On the light itself...

High-power, warm to neutral, preferably Hi-CRI, floody, big battery.

So maybe something like 3000K - 4000K Hi-CRI XHP70 (or MT-G2) powered by 2S3P or 3S2P 18650s.

7

My thinking is it must be watertight, not just a few o-rings and call it done, it must be able to withstand pressures of 20+ meters underwater. I expect it to have easy one hand operation, this includes on-off and mode changes. A good lanyard and warm high CRI emitters.

8

For a simple start into diving lights, get a StarryLight DXM improve the driver with no visible PWM and lower the standby drain to a level that is reasonable for a good e-switch driver and put a high CRI ~4000K emitter in it.

This would be a great all around light for anything, not just diving…