Here we go again…
The XP-L has the same die as an XM-L2, it’s just crammed on the substrate of an XP-G2. Hence the flat sides on the dome. The new W2 has the dome profile modified, smaller flat sides. And I’m very surprised to see it doing 6.6A!
So, to re-hash… the XP-L, de-domed, has the same surface as the XM-L2, de-domed. Both throw the same. (there are variances, but they are minor)
Throw the same as comparable XM-L2, yes, but we haven’t seen any XM-L2 comparable to these numbers yet, have we?
XM-L2 U4 1C with dome on at 1811 lumens, closest I’ve personally seen. I don’t know if the W2 XP-L is a step up in binning over the U4 XM-L2 or not, it would appear to be.
So you see, it’s all the more important that I get 12 of the actual W2 XP-L for this rebuild of my Meteor. 
The potential is staggering.
Question is, should I go with the one piece original mcpcb that has altered traces for parallel configuration or should I use 4 independent Noctigons? Any idea’s which will carry more current?
I’m presently using 2 SinkPAD triples and 2 Noctigons, getting 10,798.5 lumens as of last check. So that would be 899.88 lumens per emitter, there’s a lot to be gained IF I can get proper current flowing. (using XP-L HI at the moment)
I’d say the big stock mcpcb would have better thermal properties, but I’d hate to see it scratched up and altered
Does the meteor use direct drive on turbo? And are the 4 cells all in parallel?
I have two of the original copper mcpcbs, one I’ve already modified for parallel set-up.
MY Meteor uses direct drive, as it’s modified. Yes, the 4 cells are parallel.
I believe the stock Meteor has the emitters 3S4P and a boost circuit on the driver. (I think)
Like Dale said he is using a simpler FET driver and parallel everything setup
Yes, originally the 4 triple sets were in series, with a common ground and common positive to each set of 3.
I have a horrible memory, the driver UI in the Meteor was too complicated for me to remember how to use it, so I stripped the board and piggybacked in an FET driver.
DDed XLP throws always better than a dded XML, maybe its just cause its capable of that high current
2100 lumens and 6.6 amps is something realy W2 worthy
Thats why i always wanted the BLF thrower to be equipped with W2/ XPL2 (if its good ) , and not with XHP35
On second thoughs nooone knows what new XHP35 revisions will emerge in the future
Another thing for me to wonder about… given a fixed output level in a name brand light, Say, the Nitecore SRT6, will the XP-L W2 give more output in a straight swap with the XM-L2 T6? Essentially it’s at least two steps up the brightness ladder, so one might think as much as 25-30% gains without bumping power output, right?
I just discovered this light, today, and ordered one. Nitecore clamis 930 lumens and 1 hour 45 minutes run time on a 2600mAh cell. So would the XP-L W2 make a substantial increase in output while maintaining the run time? Obviously an XM-L2 U4 would be a direct swap, keeping the proprietary mcpcb. Wonder if I’ll be able to get inside without too much collateral damage? lol
Yeah it will , i recently modded Zebra H52 witha Nichia emitter, the bump was noticable over the older xpg generation one
Sometimes its realy booring thing to mod those brand flashlights, yesterday i opened Olight ST25, it was sitting in my suv as a backup flashlight but i always hated his greenish tint…the reflector was both glues and had a thead, and its a SMO reflector…if i knew i would never open it, it took like 4 hours just to open it without any damage( at least not a major one)
Agreed, and this has stopped me from purchasing the big name brands in the past. Nitecore likes to use Red Loctite which is designed to be permanent, it doesn’t let go easily and I’ve even seen it pull threads out of a light made with a lower grade aluminum. I’m hoping that this SRT6, being an older model from a few years ago, either isn’t glued or maybe not so strongly.
I’ve learned a few tricks on opening these things, but some of them are still challenging. Like the Nitecore TM16 I just got on a trade, it’s REALLY solidly glued. Gonna have to mount it in the 5” jaws of my lathe if I’m going to get inside…
That’s what I’m finding too. M4D M4X got his open for his review. The instructions he gave:
1. Take off the bezel and remove the reflector and MCPCB and anything else you can (my bezel screws off pretty easy)
2. Apply low heat to the shelf inside for a few minutes (I think he said 100C)
3. Twist with rubber gloves.
I haven’t done it yet since I’m waiting for a luxmeter to get here for some readings on the stock light.
Heh true, TM16 i opened with a ( dont know the exact word) tool for maintaining car oil filters and lotsa heat…anyway my hands were shaking like 6 hours later
TK75 is way more gratefull mod btw, especily now at that rofl price the offer is quite tempting
The XP-L2 has a lower Vf than the XM-L2, so it might even give you just a bit more run time to go with your higher output! As for the Loctite, I’d say a little heat would be the perfect prescription for that. Red is supposed to be permanent to 260C, but maybe with a good grip, you can get it loose at a lower temperature. A quick search just now found gasoline and acetone separately recommended as well.
I think there are new and old xpl V6’s . I got some from KD (V6 1A) that they don’t dedome easily , like 0D .
I would appreciate if anyone knows where to order old V6’s from .
Got the TM16 apart, found the wires so twisted up that the small thermal sensor wires were actually broken! I replaced all the wires, went with 18ga throughout on power wires. Will be putting XP-L W2’s on 26mm MaxToch mcpcbs and fitting them to the proprietary plastic reflector. In the meantime, I’ll reassemble it and see if the larger wires made any difference. 
Did you do anything special to break it loose? Or just use the lathe?