I recently turned my S6 into a triple and I love it. What don’t you like about it?
So…if I got an S2 host, copper spacer, triple XP-G2 S2 1D on Noctigon, qlite 3.04a driver with 4 extra 7135s…would that be an ok build or can I still add more 7135s to get more amps? I guess what I’m wondering is how many amps can I push until it kills the leds?
I don’t think you have to worry about killing a triple with a single Li-Ion configuration.
it will be running a bit hot with even a stock qlite so keep that in mind.
Any of the older S series host with the big reflector/small pill will work with that spacer—-All of them interchange except the S6—makes me wonder if the S6 is a convoy at all— can’t remember but the pill out of the S2 will thread in the S6 or visa versa—I have made quite a few triples in the S6—it handles heat as well as any of the others — I find that 6amps (16chips) works best with about a 120 sec step down — then a medium in the 2.8 to 3.0 amp range for quite a long runtime
I made a triple out of a red Convoy S2+, but I had to swap the pill with an older S2 so the spacer would fit. It also doesn’t leave enough room for a lens, so the optic is exposed directly and may need to be replaced eventually after it gets enough scratches.
My red S2+ triple is one of my favorite lights. With a FET+1 driver it goes from a stable 0.3 lm moon mode up to a 2250 lumen turbo, and the 10508 optic gives it an extremely smooth floody beam which works well for biking. The tint I used was XP-G2 3C, though a 3D would have been a bit better.
what’s a FET +1?
also did you get ur triple from RMM? did you need to jump anything on the board?
It’s a Mosfet + 1 amc7135
The 7135 gives a more consistent moon and even provides some regulation to higher modes. But its ToyKeeper’s firmware that makes a fet+1 driver really shine. :bigsmile:
You can get a driver from RMM / mtnelectronics.com with two power channels — one using a mosfet and one using an amc7135 chip. The FET runs in direct-drive mode, basically, which provides the maximum output the battery and LEDs can muster. The 7135 chip runs current-regulated at 350mA, which allows for a nice moon mode and higher efficiency in the other low/medium modes. It’s currently the preferred way to get the “best of both worlds” for both the low and high end of the output spectrum.
Wight and RMM designed the drivers, and it’s a nice upgrade from the older 7135-only or FET-only models.
However, you should be careful with the highest modes because it’ll use a lot of power. Like ~10 amps with a triple XP-G2 and ~15 amps on a triple XP-L. I am not exaggerating when I say people on this forum have burned/injured themselves with lights configured this way.
BTW, yes, I got the triple XP-G2 on Noctigon from RMM. And it needs the pads jumpered to run in parallel mode if your power source is one cell. He generally includes the jumpers with the triples, or may be talked into soldering those on before shipping. You can also drag solder carefully across the pads to connect them, but it’s recommended to use the jumpers if possible.
Why do you need the jumpers for one cell use?
The triple board is individually addressable by default. You need jumpers to put it in parallel or series (unless you want to solder 6 wires)
The S2+ can be built into a triple light without adding a spacer. I built a very simple version. This adds some length to the battery compartment and combined with additional modifications would make a short tube S2+ fit 18500 cells as demostrated by Firelight2.
Mine works fine with protected 18650's, even better than when original. An unprotected flat top like a Samsung 25R rattles a bit and might change modes when the light is shaken.
I just mentioned this on another thread here . I built a couple S2+ triples and the only modification I made to the pill was to drill a hole in the center for the wires. I just soldered the noctigon to the end of the pill. I’m pushing over 8A with no problems at all. It heats up rather quickly as expected. All my unprotected batteries fit and are held firmly.
James3 started a sales Thread for a custom made pill for the S2+. Him and me are already on the interest list 
The FET+1 driver and host are the meat and potatoes of the light… but the firmware is its “special sauce”.
Mmmm, special sauce.
Your version is probably thermally superior to mine at least when using a Noctigon or similar copper star, but I did not even consider doing a "hollow pill" style light. It somehow feels just wrong. 
The KD triple board fits even the flattened pill without drilling a center hole as there is an alternative way to route the wires.
I totally understand about it being hollow. Another way to look at it is that the copper board actually creates a solid cap for the pill. In either case it seems that copper is just that good at moving heat. 
Humble Observation: The Convoy S Series is just a winner for modders, it seems. It’s just so friendly to a number of approaches. Can’t beat it for fun per dollar value!
Yes, I'm confident that will work well. My criteria have more to do with obsessions, maybe even borderline OCD.
Exactly. A lucky coincidence too. What I did with the modified pill and cheap aluminum KD triple fits protected cells with more clearance, and worked very well with a humble 1.4 A driver. Soldering a copper star directly on the unmodified pill will have tighter fit for unprotected cells required for high currents.
At the moment I'm trying to fit a triple and 18500 in the 18350 S2+. This has been done before, but I'm trying a different approach. Modified front end of the pill, but trying to avoid cutting the other end. I just have 2mm to go. Next thing to try is removing unnecessary crap from inside the tailcap. I still have springs against both ends of the battery, so probably going to remove one of these.