I was going to use my S6 host but it is not that great of a host like the S2,S3s etc.
Does anyone know what other Convoy S series hosts t use that will work with the copper spacer from RMM ?
here is the spacer from rmm
I was wondering if it would fit the RED S2+ ???
I have a S2 from BG and its heavy duty aluminum but the brass pill inside does not fit in the s6 or vise versa there for i am thinking that the spacer and triple wont fit in that host…
Your picture doesn’t show up for me.
The S2+ uses a shorter reflector than the S2so if the spacer is designed for S2 it will be too thick for the S2+. Do you have the ability to modify the spacer? The aluminum version of the spacer would be quicker, easier to cut and file. Copper really isn’t necessary even for high power builds.
just go to mtnelectronics. com and search for “spacer” I got the copper one.
Yep, I did that. 
Link for others Spacers
The mountain spacer should work just fine with your S2, using it with the shorter (8mm) S2 pill. What Halo is telling you is that the spacer will not work with the S2+ because the S2+ has a longer (13mm) pill. I guess you could shorten the RMM spacer by 5mm and use it like that.
My vote would be to build the triple in the S2. A fine light for the price.
I would mod thepill before the spacer.
s5,s8rotheroptions
cantusethespacebarbecausethisforumgarblesupthetextwhileusingmyphonetoreply:(
I just remembered, there’s a copper triple pill for the S2+ on the big auction site. Just search the ’Bay for “convoy” and it will pop up. The Russian seller has five of them in stock, but they are pretty expensive…….
I recently turned my S6 into a triple and I love it. What don’t you like about it?
So…if I got an S2 host, copper spacer, triple XP-G2 S2 1D on Noctigon, qlite 3.04a driver with 4 extra 7135s…would that be an ok build or can I still add more 7135s to get more amps? I guess what I’m wondering is how many amps can I push until it kills the leds?
I don’t think you have to worry about killing a triple with a single Li-Ion configuration.
it will be running a bit hot with even a stock qlite so keep that in mind.
Any of the older S series host with the big reflector/small pill will work with that spacer—-All of them interchange except the S6—makes me wonder if the S6 is a convoy at all— can’t remember but the pill out of the S2 will thread in the S6 or visa versa—I have made quite a few triples in the S6—it handles heat as well as any of the others — I find that 6amps (16chips) works best with about a 120 sec step down — then a medium in the 2.8 to 3.0 amp range for quite a long runtime
I made a triple out of a red Convoy S2+, but I had to swap the pill with an older S2 so the spacer would fit. It also doesn’t leave enough room for a lens, so the optic is exposed directly and may need to be replaced eventually after it gets enough scratches.
My red S2+ triple is one of my favorite lights. With a FET+1 driver it goes from a stable 0.3 lm moon mode up to a 2250 lumen turbo, and the 10508 optic gives it an extremely smooth floody beam which works well for biking. The tint I used was XP-G2 3C, though a 3D would have been a bit better.
what’s a FET +1?
also did you get ur triple from RMM? did you need to jump anything on the board?
It’s a Mosfet + 1 amc7135
The 7135 gives a more consistent moon and even provides some regulation to higher modes. But its ToyKeeper’s firmware that makes a fet+1 driver really shine. :bigsmile:
You can get a driver from RMM / mtnelectronics.com with two power channels — one using a mosfet and one using an amc7135 chip. The FET runs in direct-drive mode, basically, which provides the maximum output the battery and LEDs can muster. The 7135 chip runs current-regulated at 350mA, which allows for a nice moon mode and higher efficiency in the other low/medium modes. It’s currently the preferred way to get the “best of both worlds” for both the low and high end of the output spectrum.
Wight and RMM designed the drivers, and it’s a nice upgrade from the older 7135-only or FET-only models.
However, you should be careful with the highest modes because it’ll use a lot of power. Like ~10 amps with a triple XP-G2 and ~15 amps on a triple XP-L. I am not exaggerating when I say people on this forum have burned/injured themselves with lights configured this way.
BTW, yes, I got the triple XP-G2 on Noctigon from RMM. And it needs the pads jumpered to run in parallel mode if your power source is one cell. He generally includes the jumpers with the triples, or may be talked into soldering those on before shipping. You can also drag solder carefully across the pads to connect them, but it’s recommended to use the jumpers if possible.
Why do you need the jumpers for one cell use?
The triple board is individually addressable by default. You need jumpers to put it in parallel or series (unless you want to solder 6 wires)
The S2+ can be built into a triple light without adding a spacer. I built a very simple version. This adds some length to the battery compartment and combined with additional modifications would make a short tube S2+ fit 18500 cells as demostrated by Firelight2.
Mine works fine with protected 18650's, even better than when original. An unprotected flat top like a Samsung 25R rattles a bit and might change modes when the light is shaken.