Which Convoy "S" host for TRIPLE build?

[SciFiFreak]

@Keisari

The S2+ can be built into a triple light without adding a spacer. I built a very simple version.

I just mentioned this on another thread here . I built a couple S2+ triples and the only modification I made to the pill was to drill a hole in the center for the wires. I just soldered the noctigon to the end of the pill. I’m pushing over 8A with no problems at all. It heats up rather quickly as expected. All my unprotected batteries fit and are held firmly.

[Wrathbringer27]

James3 started a sales Thread for a custom made pill for the S2+. Him and me are already on the interest list

[ToyKeeper]

@Halo…

It’s a Mosfet + 1 amc7135
The 7135 gives a more consistent moon and even provides some regulation to higher modes. But its ToyKeeper’s firmware that makes a fet+1 driver really shine. :bigsmile:

The FET+1 driver and host are the meat and potatoes of the light… but the firmware is its “special sauce”.

Mmmm, special sauce.

[Keisari]

@SciFiFreak

I just mentioned this on another thread “here”:Ruined my Convoy S2+-Was lucky I ordered a spare accidentally that is on the way. . I built a couple S2+ triples and the only modification I made to the pill was to drill a hole in the center for the wires. I just soldered the noctigon to the end of the pill. I’m pushing over 8A with no problems at all. It heats up rather quickly as expected. All my unprotected batteries fit and are held firmly.

Your version is probably thermally superior to mine at least when using a Noctigon or similar copper star, but I did not even consider doing a "hollow pill" style light. It somehow feels just wrong.

The KD triple board fits even the flattened pill without drilling a center hole as there is an alternative way to route the wires.

[SciFiFreak]

@Keisari

Your version is probably thermally superior to mine at least when using a Noctigon or similar copper star, but I did not even consider doing a “hollow pill” style light. It somehow feels just wrong.

The KD triple board fits even the flattened pill without drilling a center hole as there is an alternative way to route the wires.

I totally understand about it being hollow. Another way to look at it is that the copper board actually creates a solid cap for the pill. In either case it seems that copper is just that good at moving heat.

[MG1 (MG)]

@SciFiFreak

@Keisari

Your version is probably thermally superior to mine at least when using a Noctigon or similar copper star, but I did not even consider doing a “hollow pill” style light. It somehow feels just wrong.

The KD triple board fits even the flattened pill without drilling a center hole as there is an alternative way to route the wires.

I totally understand about it being hollow. Another way to look at it is that the copper board actually creates a solid cap for the pill. In either case it seems that copper is just that good at moving heat.

Humble Observation: The Convoy S Series is just a winner for modders, it seems. It’s just so friendly to a number of approaches. Can’t beat it for fun per dollar value!

[Keisari]

@SciFiFreak

I totally understand about it being hollow. Another way to look at it is that the copper board actually creates a solid cap for the pill. In either case it seems that copper is just that good at moving heat.

Yes, I'm confident that will work well. My criteria have more to do with obsessions, maybe even borderline OCD.

@MG

Humble Observation: The Convoy S Series is just a winner for modders, it seems. It’s just so friendly to a number of approaches. Can’t beat it for fun per dollar value!

Exactly. A lucky coincidence too. What I did with the modified pill and cheap aluminum KD triple fits protected cells with more clearance, and worked very well with a humble 1.4 A driver. Soldering a copper star directly on the unmodified pill will have tighter fit for unprotected cells required for high currents.

At the moment I'm trying to fit a triple and 18500 in the 18350 S2+. This has been done before, but I'm trying a different approach. Modified front end of the pill, but trying to avoid cutting the other end. I just have 2mm to go. Next thing to try is removing unnecessary crap from inside the tailcap. I still have springs against both ends of the battery, so probably going to remove one of these.