Which FW3a LED did I get this time?

[gusto]

Where did you order it from?

[f0xx]

@amishbill

I was referring to swapping the entire emitter (and probably driver) assembly from a light that has the right setup. Yes, this would mean I’d have to buy a different light with a Nichia in it, but hey - look at the crowd I’m in. Having another ‘spare’ light with a different emitter would not be a huge hardship. :face_with_monocle:

If you got a new MCPCB with the right LEDs on it, it is just two wires that need to be unsoldered then resoldered. Pretty standard stuff for the most part if you are comfortable with soldering. If you’re wanting 219B’s, you’d have to source them and put them in yourself anyway. Definitely follow the above advice on protecting those emitters with the special firmware or lower drain battery if you do though. I think there is a post around here with some for sale if you go that route.

[amishbill]

@gusto

Where did you order it from?

Sorry - I’m not throwing a vendor under the bus while the situation is still open. Now that I know what the situation is, I’ve opened a conversation about it.

@f0xx

If you got a new MCPCB with the right LEDs on it, it is just two wires that need to be unsoldered then resoldered. Pretty standard stuff for the most part if you are comfortable with soldering. If you’re wanting 219B’s, you’d have to source them and put them in yourself anyway. Definitely follow the above advice on protecting those emitters with the special firmware or lower drain battery if you do though. I think there is a post around here with some for sale if you go that route.

All I want is the stock high CRI Nichia that they come with stock. Nothing fancy.

You know… it just struck me. I have no idea which XPL-HI color temp this might be. That straddles the border between Annoying and Nope.

[Lightbringer]

Hmmm.

FW3A LED type/color selector?

[Tally-ho]

Ordered @ nealsgadgets a blue anodized FW3A SST20, received 219C :

[Scallywag]

I wonder if places like Illumn are checking theirs. I hope so, though I imagine it’s a pain.

[f0xx]

You guys have me curious… how do I tell the difference between the 219Cs and the SST-20s? Looking at the first post, I don’t see much difference between top and bottom.

EDIT:

looking closely, maybe the dome is bigger on the 219c?

[amishbill]

@f0xx

You guys have me curious… how do I tell the difference between the 219Cs and the SST-20s? Looking at the first post, I don’t see much difference between top and bottom.

EDIT:

looking closely, maybe the dome is bigger on the 219c?

The Nichia seems to have a darker square surround while the SST square surround looks whiter.

[f0xx]

@amishbill

@f0xx

You guys have me curious… how do I tell the difference between the 219Cs and the SST-20s? Looking at the first post, I don’t see much difference between top and bottom.

EDIT:

looking closely, maybe the dome is bigger on the 219c?

The Nichia seems to have a darker square surround while the SST square surround looks whiter.

Yeah, looks like it.

It appears my SST-20 is an SST-20. I like it a LOT, just wanted to be sure in case I order another one down the road.

[chops728]

I recently purchased a used NS22 to use as a host for a quad — the seller thought he had a SST 4K but it ended up being more a 3K (he hated it ) —- I already had a 4K version plus I purchased 35 / 4K emitters —- this light was way warmer and rosier—Go figure I like it

[Tally-ho]

@amishbill

The Nichia seems to have a darker square surround while the SST square surround looks whiter.

Yes, very easy to differentiate once you know how they look like. Have a look here : LEDs & Other Stuff - (Reference Guide)
8th column, raw 4 = SST20
8th column, raw 5 = 219C

[amishbill]

Would a loaded MCPCB like this Samsung 351 or this Nichia be a direct unsolder / resolder exchange?

Are they typically a glued in or just held in by pressure from the optic?

[chops728]

Yes a simple change out—— I put the Samsung in one of mine

[amishbill]

Thanks guys.
Now comes the hard part - deciding on my path.

- return/replace and be done with it?

- some store credit, keep the wrong light, and maybe try to put the right LED board in it.

• keep the wrong light and take a deeper discount on a Ti/Cu hybrid…

[amishbill]

Besides the lower CRI, what are the practical differences between the 5k XPL-HI and the 291C / SST 20?

[f0xx]

@amishbill

Besides the lower CRI, what are the practical differences between the 5k XPL-HI and the 291C / SST 20?

XPL-HI puts out more lumens

[Geuzzz]

@f0xx

@amishbill

Besides the lower CRI, what are the practical differences between the 5k XPL-HI and the 291C / SST 20?

XPL-HI puts out more lumens

Both in 5000k? Xpl-hi has higher output/efficiency, better tint and runs cooler.

[Bob_McBob]

@amishbill

Would a loaded MCPCB like this Samsung 351 or this Nichia be a direct unsolder / resolder exchange?

Are they typically a glued in or just held in by pressure from the optic?

The MCPCB is held in by pressure from the optic, but current FW3As have a set screw to prevent it from rotating while the bezel is screwed down. You would either have to drill out a small hole to accommodate it or remove the set screw itself, which I believe is threaded in from behind under the driver.

[ggf31416]

@amishbill

Besides the lower CRI, what are the practical differences between the 5k XPL-HI and the 291C / SST 20?

Lower CRI, less heat, a bit more output, also more expensive.

[amishbill]

Hmmm… Nothing like a simple problem. Get a heck of a deal on a light I don’t particularly want, but maybe I should want, because if runs brighter and cooler…