Mine is a Canon sd1200 IS.
No because it carries on with the seconds, this is the other way, faster. I guess it's fractions of a second, so maybe 2nr would give me the 1/2second setting as above?
Does it have exposure compensation feature? This is usually designated by 'exp +/-', or something like that. If it doesn't, then I'd agree that a new camera would be a good if you want to take 'serious' pics. If it does have exp comp, then simply dial in plus 1, plus 1.5 etc until the results match what your eyes are seeing when you shine the torch.
Check the manual, that camera can be fully adjusted I think, infact I think Canons are one of the best for this, this is from a review site
'Shooting modes: The SD1200 has 18 preset shooting modes including P or Program mode, which allows a more advanced photographer to set ISO speed, white balance, and metering. Two interesting modes are the Aquarium setting, which allows photos of underwater life with no glare off of aquarium glass, and Underwater, which takes photos underwater with a low backscatter (with the proper waterproof case). Other modes include Digital Macro, which allows for close-up shooting, Long Shutter for artistic blur, and Kids & Pets for speedy focusing and fast shooting.'
Jeansy: "Pnoticeable it carries on with the seconds, this is the other way, faster. I guess it's fractions of a second, so maybe 2nr would give me the 1/2second setting as above?"
In that case, yes. Unusual settings, the '2' makes sense as 1/2 sec, but 1.3 and 1.6 are strange to me. But yes, basically they must be fractions as you suggest. Still can't think what nr might be, though..
I don't know about the exp +/- feature but I will check when I get home. But for the modes I had it set to Program for this thread. https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/8832 Which worked fairly well.
The Canon PowerShot1200 that you have will not let you go Manual, but you should give "CandleLight" or Fireworks mode a try.
Regarding the F5.6 limitations of some cameras, I would try outdoor shots at 1/2 second or maybe just a bit longer when using 5.6
The other option is to set up like the fonarik.com site. 13-second long exposures at f16. I am getting more tempted to switch all my beamshots to that setting, it is pretty impressive. They do use ISO 800 and I limit mine to ISO 400, so maybe a bit smaller aperture or bit quicker shutter would make them the same. I need to experiment with that.
The fireworks and nightshot modes both over expose the beamshot and make it look much brighter than it really is.
Nice thread, if you had it on program then the setting should have stayed the same throughout, I can't do it on mobile but if you right click and view image properties it will tell you the setting the camera used and you could post them in the thread? (might only be able to see on original photos if you resized them).
What we need is a BLF Flashaholic Kit that contains:
- camera with manual settings
- tripod
- two pieces of string: one short one and one long one (for standardized beamshot distances)
- DMM
- thermometer
- lux meter
- soldering iron
- vise, pliers, and tweezers
- cool t-shirt
scaru, what happens if you just shoot on Program mode? This is where/when you can then adjust the settings with +/- exp. comp. to get a result that matches real life.
Firework mode is a long exposure so that the camera can record bursts and light trails; some manufacturers also make this mode over-saturate the colours for more spectacular pictures.. Nightshot mode tends to vary from manufacturer to manufacturer
trooplewis, thanks for taking the time to do this post, especially after getting beaten up on another thread (yes, yes I understand some folks just felt unappreciated - I might have felt the same - which is why I didn't post there). Unfortunately, well-taken beamshots may be the single most informative thing when buying a new light (otherwise how can you tell that the spill's so great that you can't make out any details in the distance even though a light reaches too far, or that the throw is so narrow you haven't a clue where your real subject is, etc etc). I hope this increases the quality of our beamshots.
Daniel
[quote=trooplewis]
Using the wrong white balance setting can have bizarre results.
In the Lilving Room shots above, I tried the "incandescent" setting, thinking the warm beam of the S-mini XML was very incandescent in color. What I got was a BLUE room, everything in it was blue. I'll post the image when I get home tonight and you will see what I mean.
[/quote]
Yes, you will get a "blue" room 
. The incandescent setting on the camera is used to shoot under tungsten lighting, which is very yellow/red (compared to daylight). Therefore the camera will apply a colour correction in order to produce "white" whites. This means increasing the amount of blue and/or decreasing the amount of yellow/red. It's fun to play around with white balance settings and observe the results. Sometimes using the 'wrong' setting can produce interesting results 
You are right. I just misunderstood your post.
I hope we can start a camera setting standards for taking beamshots. Here's what I suggest.
For bright lights (usually 18650 or 14500 power lights)
F5.6 (standard lens, better not go lower than this)
1/60secs to avoid camera shake
ISO800 (since we shot mostly in the dark)
daylight (5000K+)
Technically, for beamshot purposes, it doesn't matter what set of shutter speed, exposure, and ISO setting you use as long as it equates to the same STOP. e.g the above settings is equivalent to F8 1/60secs ISO1600.
For small lights (keychain lights, AAA, etc)
F5.6
1/30secs
ISO1600
daylight (5000K+)
These figures are just off the top of my head and needed to be refined. The idea is to use different sets for different kinds/power of lights.
Ideally distance should be consistent also but will be harder to get a consensus.
1/30 or 1/60sec at 5.6 you are going to have extremely dim images, almost un-usable.
At f5.6 outdoors you are going to need at least 1/2 second exposures.
BTW, the lack of f2.8 or f3.5 on many cameras is a good selling point to using the 13 second exposure that they use at fonarik.com (using f16)
Also, unless you have a REALLY good DSLR, ISO 800 or 1600 is going to look like grainy crap.
I would say ISO400 max unless you have a pro camera.
Leelou, have you ever actually taken beamshots???
That is what I did for my beamshots. I didn't use a +/- setting or anything I just would take 10+ shots and see what was the best represantation.
No, not really. That is why I said....
[quote=Leelou] ...
These figures are just off the top of my head and needed to be refined. The idea is to use different sets for different kinds/power of lights. [/quote]
Perhaps you can give exact settings we can use. Three sets would be ideal or we can just adopt what fonarik.com(not familiar with it) use.
Just playing with my camera, 13 seconds is a PITA imo, just too long and my crappy camera has to proccess that for 30 seconds afterwards, add to that timer delay and 1 photo takes nearly a minute, screw that!
High ISO makes it look like its been zoomed in and losses quality too much. Having several to chose from adds complexity, id like to see better comparitive shots but people wont bother if you make it complex. Shutter speed if really needed would prob be the best adjustment if a light really doesnt suit the settings.
Who posts the most beamshots here? Foy? Adopt his settings?
This. He quotes his settings in many of his reviews.
Usually 1/3sec and f2.8
So if your camera only goes to 5.6, use a 1/2 second exposure or a tad longer..
That seems good, my Sony does 2.8 but I don't think my Fuji does. Is 2.8 unusual on cheap cameras?