The Canon PowerShot1200 that you have will not let you go Manual, but you should give "CandleLight" or Fireworks mode a try.
Regarding the F5.6 limitations of some cameras, I would try outdoor shots at 1/2 second or maybe just a bit longer when using 5.6
The other option is to set up like the fonarik.com site. 13-second long exposures at f16. I am getting more tempted to switch all my beamshots to that setting, it is pretty impressive. They do use ISO 800 and I limit mine to ISO 400, so maybe a bit smaller aperture or bit quicker shutter would make them the same. I need to experiment with that.
Nice thread, if you had it on program then the setting should have stayed the same throughout, I can't do it on mobile but if you right click and view image properties it will tell you the setting the camera used and you could post them in the thread? (might only be able to see on original photos if you resized them).
scaru, what happens if you just shoot on Program mode? This is where/when you can then adjust the settings with +/- exp. comp. to get a result that matches real life.
Firework mode is a long exposure so that the camera can record bursts and light trails; some manufacturers also make this mode over-saturate the colours for more spectacular pictures.. Nightshot mode tends to vary from manufacturer to manufacturer
trooplewis, thanks for taking the time to do this post, especially after getting beaten up on another thread (yes, yes I understand some folks just felt unappreciated - I might have felt the same - which is why I didn't post there). Unfortunately, well-taken beamshots may be the single most informative thing when buying a new light (otherwise how can you tell that the spill's so great that you can't make out any details in the distance even though a light reaches too far, or that the throw is so narrow you haven't a clue where your real subject is, etc etc). I hope this increases the quality of our beamshots.
Using the wrong white balance setting can have bizarre results.
In the Lilving Room shots above, I tried the "incandescent" setting, thinking the warm beam of the S-mini XML was very incandescent in color. What I got was a BLUE room, everything in it was blue. I'll post the image when I get home tonight and you will see what I mean.
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Yes, you will get a "blue" room . The incandescent setting on the camera is used to shoot under tungsten lighting, which is very yellow/red (compared to daylight). Therefore the camera will apply a colour correction in order to produce "white" whites. This means increasing the amount of blue and/or decreasing the amount of yellow/red. It's fun to play around with white balance settings and observe the results. Sometimes using the 'wrong' setting can produce interesting results
I hope we can start a camera setting standards for taking beamshots. Here's what I suggest.
For bright lights (usually 18650 or 14500 power lights)
F5.6 (standard lens, better not go lower than this)
1/60secs to avoid camera shake
ISO800 (since we shot mostly in the dark)
daylight (5000K+)
Technically, for beamshot purposes, it doesn't matter what set of shutter speed, exposure, and ISO setting you use as long as it equates to the same STOP. e.g the above settings is equivalent to F8 1/60secs ISO1600.
For small lights (keychain lights, AAA, etc)
F5.6
1/30secs
ISO1600
daylight (5000K+)
These figures are just off the top of my head and needed to be refined. The idea is to use different sets for different kinds/power of lights.
Ideally distance should be consistent also but will be harder to get a consensus.
These figures are just off the top of my head and needed to be refined. The idea is to use different sets for different kinds/power of lights.
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Perhaps you can give exact settings we can use. Three sets would be ideal or we can just adopt what fonarik.com(not familiar with it) use.
Just playing with my camera, 13 seconds is a PITA imo, just too long and my crappy camera has to proccess that for 30 seconds afterwards, add to that timer delay and 1 photo takes nearly a minute, screw that!
High ISO makes it look like its been zoomed in and losses quality too much. Having several to chose from adds complexity, id like to see better comparitive shots but people wont bother if you make it complex. Shutter speed if really needed would prob be the best adjustment if a light really doesnt suit the settings.
Who posts the most beamshots here? Foy? Adopt his settings?
Yes, less expensive lenses typically don't go to f2.8 as a general rule. Sometimes they start at 3.5, sometimes 5.6. Although that Canon I linked to in another thread goes to f2.8 and it also has video.
I feel that beamshots are VERY subjective depending on target, individual setups, even atmospheric conditions. These have been outlined in earlier posts.
Regardless, I agree that we must do our best to standardise, and most importantly take many photos of various torches to compare, and most importantly, write down your setups, down to the exact positioning of the camera tripod and table upon which the torch is placed. (e.g. line the front right leg of tripod with line of bricks corresponding to the second column of a shade structure, along the edge of the brick paving) and the aiming of the camera should be standardised too as much as possible.
Also when taking a new set of photos, take photos of the same old torches so that you can confirm that your settings are similar, and if that fails, at least you still have a comparable reference anyway.
Ive got 2 sets of photos for beamshots (I unfortunately had different cameras and settings for each set) but I have taken shots of the same torches so within each set torches are comparable, but I can also compare the differences between each set by comparing the same torches.
Nothing great, but the idea is to keep things consistent. Its just something to think about, but thanks for bringing up this thought, helps keep all of us on our toes.
Ok I have been experimenting after reading this thread. Got my camera on manual and I'm going to try to take some beamshots tonite.
Troop, I thank you for trying to help a dumb camera user such as myself.
Great thread. And I know now you were just trying to help in the TK70 thread. I sent you a pm on some help if you would with my current manual settings I am on. I think I will try taking some pictures later tonite. Shutterspeed is on 6 and focal is 2.8. 2.8 focal is the lowest my camera will go on manual I believe. How will this do on nite beamshots say at 60, 100, 200, 350yds?
My shutterpseed settings will go from 4" to 2000 if that will help you. My focal will go from 2.8 to 8.
PM sent ILF. Be aware the range of your shutter speeds based on the above post is 4 seconds to 1/2000th of a second.
I think if you set your shutter at 1/2 or .6 seconds, and you aperture at f2.8 you will be happy with what you see. If you can change your ISO, set it manually to 400, and you should be good to go.
. The incandescent setting on the camera is used to shoot under tungsten lighting, which is very yellow/red (compared to daylight). Therefore the camera will apply a colour correction in order to produce "white" whites. This means increasing the amount of blue and/or decreasing the amount of yellow/red. It's fun to play around with white balance settings and observe the results. Sometimes using the 'wrong' setting can produce interesting results 