Which zoomable LED light?

The Z1 uses an aspheric lens. They tend to give wide smooth even flood. But loose lumens as you zoom in. You also end up with a projection of the LED.

I find such lights are ok, but when zoomed in the image of the LED always irks me somewhat.

Overall I much prefer the TIR optics used by Led Lenser and some others. The flood isn’t quite as smooth, but they don’t loose lumens when you zoom them and you get more of a hot spot and small spill beam. The beam is usually fatter too, but just as far reaching.

I would say, Led Lenser do seem to have gotten silly expensive in the last couple of years. Gone is the popular P7 or P7.2 that used to run on 4xAA. They have a new complex range with about 100 lights all with similar names and specs and the worlds worst website to try and understand it all. I’m sure some of the lights are ok or even quite good. But I can’t get past the prices.

Coast also tend to use TIR optics. But aren’t readily available in the UK as a rule. The only one I have has great flood and the beam is good when zoomed, but it isn’t a thrower. The cd reading is quite low. I don’t know if this would be true with other Coasts or just the one I have.

I also have a YP F15 Falcon, very much taking inspiration from the Led Lensers of old, but generally fixing most of the issues most people would have had with the Lensers.

Nope, I specifically said that you don’t get The Bat Signal when fully zoomed.

I think it’s a sort of movable TIR lens, but never took it apart.

Just an update on the above- I fitted the Convoy 8 Amp driver into my Z1 yesterday (to go with the previously upgraded SFT40.) My Z1 came with the 6 Amp driver/ SST40 stock. The 8 Amp driver has a brass post instead of a spring and an 18650 battery won’t make reliable contact now.

PS: You get used to the square beam when using the maximum throw. (Given how far it can throw it doesn’t concern me in the least.)

I have a few lights,mostly they all take 18650’s,maybe one that use a 26650,but the ConvoyZ1(SST40,4mode)) I just bought takes a 21700,so what take-aways can I expect when using a 18650 battery in this light,other than rattling around?If I need to,I will buy a 21700,no problem,it’s just that I have lots of spare 18650’s already available.Thanks,HB

You can get 18650-to-21700 adapter tubes that are really just a plastic tube you put around the battery to give it extra width and keep it from rattling. You can also just take some spare rubber o-rings you have and put them around the 18650 so that it will have enough width to not rattle. Same principle.

But the boost in capacity you will get from 21700 over the 18650 is nice, up to 5000mah. The Z1 doesn’t really need very high drain batteries, anything that can supply up to 10a is fine. Those are fairly cheap (< $10, or maybe as low as $5).

On the Road Z821 or On the Road i5!

I own both, and like them.

I reviewed them here:
Z821: “REVIEW”: On The Road Z821 - Zoomable – 1x18650 – 940 lumens [Pic Heavy]
i5: “Unboxing Video + Written Review”: On The Road i5 - Zoomable – 1x18650 – 1100 lumens – USB-C Charging

So the boost in capacity is the main difference between the 21700 and the 18650,plus the fact that they are obviously different in physical size.
Hopefully there will be no problem running the 18650 in the Z1? Thanks,HB

Because the stock LEDs in the Z1 don’t have particularly high drain, I think the main thing you would notice is the capacity difference, yes.

The only caveat, as mentioned above by smurcod, is that if you get the SFT40, that driver seems to have a metal post on it (which I can confirm myself) instead of a spring (on the head side of the light). So that a 18650, being 5mm shorter than a 21700, might not make contact with the driver without some type of small metal shim (or tiny magnet or solder blob or something of that nature) to bridge the gap with it. The other Convoy drivers have a spring apparently, so with springs on both head and tail end, it will accommodate a wider range of battery lengths.

If you do a google search for “18650 to 21700 adapter” there are some things you can buy that apparently take care of both issues, both the metal shim part and the width issue, but not too hard to McGuyver something yourself if you don’t want to pay for one.


@Hot Brass, you must have posted you’d bought one as I was typing a post yesterday- you’ll like it. As I posted with the SST40 the stock 6 Amp driver should have a spring and the 18650 works length wise- even vigorously shaking it there were no problems. As mentioned, you’ll just need o-rings (or similar) to make up the smaller diameter of the 18650. After I fitted the 8 Amp driver the 18650 battery contact wasn’t reliable, a metal spacer could work or perhaps changing/ stretching the tailcap spring?

The 21700 battery should maintain the brightness longer in use as it will maintain a higher voltage for longer. I bought mine with the Lishen (?) 21700 battery Convoy supply and have since swapped to Samsung 40T and they’re a lot better (maintain the brightness longer, seem to run longer.) Make sure whatever charger you’ve got can fit 21700 batteries in too if you’re looking at buying 21700’s. I’ve had to buy another charger as it was a tight squeeze in my Nitecore SC4- even after modding it for extra length.

Thanks for that.I don’t really want to buy extra batteries (21700),as I have probably 4 new 18650’s.As long as they make contact in the new light I would rather go with them and I can fix the looseness with something,like was mentioned,o-rings.
I checked my two chargers to see if the longer 21700 would fit,but I had no batts to check,so I just used a digital vernier set at 70mm and measured in between the contacts on the chargers and they seem like they would fit,but when I get the light,I will check with the 50’s first and they don’t work,I will just have to buy a 21700…no worries.
I won’t be making the light ‘work’ so hard,so I don’t think I need the 700’s,or their extra capacity and higher amperage for that.Thanks,HB

Compared to the Marauder Mini? Yes, the O-L is a lot more expensive.

Previous posts I said mine (Z1 ) came with a Lishen battery- that’s incorrect, it’s a Liitokala.

70mm between the contacts will be a problem for a 21700. I’ve got around 71-72mm and it’s hard to get the batteries out without damaging the insulating jacket- by them rubbing on the charger terminal’s “nipples” that contact the battery.

You’ll be fine with the 18650 and o-rings on the SST40 equipped model. If you get the modding bug change out the SST40 to an SFT40 (using same driver) and it will gain some output. Then upgrade to the 8 Amp driver if/ when you get some 21700’s for a further boost in output.

I had a little more than 70mm clearance,so maybe I will run into trouble also?….Maybe I will just stick with my 18650’s with a pair of o-rings to take up the gap.
Probably won’t do any modding,as no experience on that,but if I went to the 8 amp driver,I will for sure be grabbing at least one 21700.Thanks,HB

This is for the more knowledgeable people than me…what is the lowest maximum discharge 21700 battery I can get by with in my Convoy Z1 with the SST40 4 mode?
Yeah,I know I was talking about using my 18650’s,but got thinkin’.Thanks,HB

It’s got a 6A driver (ish) so if you run on high a lot you’ll want a cell that can comfortably deliver at least that much. Generally, it’s smartest (for cell longevity and voltage sag) to plan on about 80% of a cell’s listed max current delivery. In this case most of the higher mAh capacity cells would do just fine and you can enjoy longer run time. Something like the Samsung 50E would be fine, lots of other options as well, and the Sofirn black 5000mAh are quite good (Lishen cells inside).

Now if that were an 8A driver then that’s on the edge of what some cells can deliver and you might consider going for a high drain cell. Like a Samsung 40T will have less capacity at 4000mAh but will be able to deliver more current comfortably, so in the end, at that current draw, the actual run time may be the same or slightly better than what the higher capacity cell would be giving. As the amps go up, the high capacity cells can’t hang very well (still usable but it stresses them and you get less performance).

That light isn’t asking for a whole lot so I think just about any 21700 will do fine. Where the small differences may lie is if you are using the light constantly rather than shorter bursts where cell voltage can rebound a little between sessions.


My best zoomies are a B158 and a B158B
(insignificant difference in body).
They have 55mm lenses.
And i just ordered an HT12.
It has a 66mm lens.
Both models are sold under various brand names.
The HT12 is not a popular light, but i saw a video with beamshots and the lens is good.
I’ll find out in a month or so if the rest of the light is good too.
I’ll be rebuilding the 2 that i have and the HT12 will need some new guts too, i think it comes with an XP-L.

I’m using the Samsung 40T and find they work really well in it (and other higher drain flashlights.) I haven’t tried the 50E.

YP F15 Falcon is good choice. not sure you`ll be able to find one

some old Fenix FD (as far as i remember model line)

currently Z1 is best deal

about LL`s - would never even spend a dime on them.