These would be ideal with a driver like the PZL, use the 7135 chips and control output values within that 2.5A-3A range per emitter.
The Quad was working nicely at 8A, the Samsung Lavender 26F that I recently got 8 of (protected, too long, stripped the protection and now they’re useful cells) ran it just fine. But I just HAD to stick the HE-2 in there…
And, drum roll?
Fried them DD. 
(see above post).
Well, I didn’t fry em outright, just melted the dome loose off 3 with one being killed when the dome moved. The other 2 died when removing the domes. That’s 8 that I’ve killed.
Haha Dale. You just had to. I understand
Ok, so I used up most of the XP-E2 Torch emitters I had left over. I think I have 3 left. The rest went into this……
Wow! Surprised you didn’t dedome them all or half of them. How much juice you giving them?
It’s the stock boost driver, it was (after some modifications tweaking restrictions) making 3600 lumens with 12 XM-L emitters. Now it’s making 2974 with Samsung 26F’s. (I had LG HE-2’s in it with the XM-L’s)
There are 6 cells, 3 stacks of 2. The emitters are wired in series x 6, in 2 groups, with 2 channels on the driver. So I left the driver alone, upgraded the wires big time, spring bypass in the tail, and added brass rods in the teflon driver cover for ground to the battery tube.
They had 26 ga leads from the driver hooking up the positives on 3 emitters, and negatives on the other 3. (group 1) Then 32 ga wire jumping them for series.
I put 22 ga silicone leads from the driver, 20 ga teflon jumpers. The driver contact board is a familiar one, I’ve repaired lights that have had flat tops short out on it. This light they used a brass cup in a teflon or white nylon retaining ring that then let the ground rely on threads. So I put 2 brass 3/16” rods through the nylon/teflon material to contact the ground ring on the driver and the battery tube sits on these.
The light is from banggood, TrustFire 12X Cree XM-L T6
Notice they claim 15,000 lumens! lol, it made 3200 when I got it out of the box. Actually it didn’t work when I took it out of the box, the driver is on a threaded plate which wasn’t screwed down snug, no ground contact.
Edit: Forgot, I also drilled and tapped the plate the driver sits on so I could screw the driver down. Nice and snug now. My Courui was set up much like this, very similar board, and gained 2+A by screwing the driver down.
We need some DBCStm Showoff BeamShots®
A dozen well centered emitters! 
So, is this a throwy showerhead light? Yes, beamshots! :-)
No Joke!!! That’s a lot of work into that light Dale. Good job, but it’s all useless without beamshots! 
I though you had planned to do a multi with XHP70 and optics in that light Dale?
1811 lumens from a XM-L2 U3 1A 
thats way more than i have ever hear someone reporting. Is it old stock or new?
The highest i have seen someone report on a U3 before i think was around 1500 & 5A thereabouts. For 1811 you would have to have more than 7A i would think, and i thought the U3 burnt out way before that :~
Please some more details, if this mean the good old XM-L2 is back at the high lumens game that would be very good news 
Tom E recently got an T6 4C i think it was really high also, in Nitro’s triple spacer order thread
I don't think that the XM-L2 was ever out of the high lumens game, but it was out of the high amps game. All of the M6s I've built with the U3s were as bright or brighter than all of those I built with U2s, despite pulling about 1A less each. The U2 1As at around 6.5A each would average about 4650 OTF, but a few of them broke 5000 OTF. With the U3 1As at around 5.3A each they are almost all doing 5000 OTF. So the average U3 build is about as bright as the brightest U2 builds were, and are also more efficient. Since OTF lumens and efficiency is what really counts, I am fine with them pulling less amps now.
Since I finished late last night, this will have to do…
My modified Fenix TK-75 at 4300 lumens
The 12 XP-E2 Torch Showerhead at 2974 lumens
Cajampa, I DID get this for the XHP-70 and Lum 5-90, but the head is SOOO shallow, there’s just no way without a lathe to make that happen. So I punted.
And yes, the 1811 lumen X6 is using a new XM-L2 U3 1A emitter. I first de-domed one, it was making over 1600 naked, so I put a stock one in and sure enough, over 1800 lumens!
On these Torch emitters, I really expected them to be on the blue/white side. But they’re not at all bad, actually showing a nicer tint than the XM-L2 U3 1A’s in my TK-75. A pleasant surprise.
^ Whoa, that's got to be the tightest 12 emitter hot spot around. Can't wait to hear what you think about the spill and general usability of the light.
Is your final config DD using 2S3P cells and 2S6P emitters on copper?
It’s got the factory boost driver in it. But yes 2S3P on the cells, 6S on the emitter, in 2 groups. The driver has 2 channels, each channel has a positive and negative lead for the 6S set that it runs. There are 2 toroids as well, presumably one for each channel.
Dale, I just noticed it but the clown to the left of the fireplace is kinda creeping me out! Clowns in general give me the creeps.
In a rather unfair side by side, I shot beamshots of the TrustFire 12x XP-E2 Torch at 97 yds and 610 yds against my new SupBeam K40 VN. This K40 was a gift by a couple of friends of mine and I’m blown away, nice guys, love the light.
TrustFire 12x at 97 yds.
K40 VN at 97 yds.
TrustFire 12x at 610 yds
K40 VN at 610 yds
Now, who would have thought a 12x showerhead light would be putting light on a barn 610 yds distant? The driver is stock too, going up against a highly modified thrower. Not too shabby says meself! lol
Thanks for the beamshots Dale
Do you have some kcd numbers on that TrustFire 12x? it looks surprisingly throwy for a showerhead light. And kcd & lumens on the K40 vn for comparison would also be interesting.