Why Computers Die – POST it here…

I used to be gung-ho for APC because they were the best, but a lot of quality-fade in later years kinda soured me on ’em. Tripp-Lite were good, and I got a Cyberpower upstairs. Unfortunately, they all used Pb-acid batteries which quietly croke and you have no idea unless you actually test them. 3yrs or so, they’re dead.

At this point, who knows what “lasts” and what’s garbage…

My own druthers would be a flywheel + motor/generator setup for the entire house, with battery backup to just drive the motor in case main AC failed. But then again, that’s me.

Even then, the web versions of Word etc seem to work ok on Chrome. My wife needed a work-from-home system earlier this year. She’s a primary teacher, and all of our state’s schools run on Office. I set her up with an account on my NUC running Ubuntu, she had no real issues at all.

This goes doubly for scientific equipment! We have had some floods where I live, and I’ve been bringing my lab back online. We have a couple of mass spectrometers hooked up to a UPS purely for power conditioning (they expect 230V +/- 5, we get 240V +/- 10 out of the wall). There are other, more expensive bits of kit in the lab too, but it’s either too hard or too expensive to get another UPS installed to protect that gear. Many arguments have been had, but at the end of the day, the workplace self-insures, so…?

I have my cable modem, DVR, and TV/Audio on UPS also. Even a short power drop will kick off the modem and it takes like 5 minutes to reestablish service. The UPS has saved many a movie night or recording.

As to powering off when not in use. I’m actually in favor of it. I mean leave it on if you are going to lunch, but power it down for the night.
Corruption of storage is more likely if the PC shuts down in an inelegant fashion.
Most modern PC sleep or hibernate after a given time. So the components are getting “powered down” and I haven’t seen enough examples of PC components that have failed due to power cycling.

A fan quitting is often the cause for heat/death. It’s amazing how crappy fans are in some components.
Cheaper video cards and low dollar power supplies come to mind here.

In the days of DOS, not much was going on when the system is idle. So a power outage would not interrupt disk operations.
Win 10 is hitting the hard drive so often, a power outage is more likely to cause a file corruption.
So, I tell my clients to shut down each night unless there is a compelling reason not to.

The only problem is that Win10 hits the drive so hard on startup, that a spinning drive is maxed out for minutes sometimes and the thing is just sluggish until the OS decides to quite messing with the rust drive.
Systems with low memory really suffer from this.
With an SSD this is not an issue.

Back in the days of DOS there was a model of Seagate drives that had the Seagate Stick. Run one for a good long time and get it warm. Then shut the system down and let it sit over the weekend.
Come Monday, the hard drive would not spin. The head would stick to the platters in the parking position.

The trick was to get the drive loose, but still connected. Then flip the power switch and at the same time give the drive a quick shake to free the heads.
If that didn’t work, then a sharp smack with a plastic screwdriver handle would usually do the job.
This could be done quite a few times before something broke. Usually the head coming off the arm.

I’d tell them, It’s time for a new drive. And if you want to keep using the PC, don’t turn it off.
These drives were flawed, but keeping the system on 24/7 would keep the drive from sticking.

Back when there were only a few drives in the market, you could tell what was inside a PC by the sound the drives made when powering up or parking. (usually). I used to play that game at clients offices. Listen for the tale tell Seagate Brrruup I’d lay a hand on the case and say, we better check your Seagate. I always like to put forward the idea that PC repair involved the dark arts.

I used to leave my fancy monoblock audio power amps on all the time thinking this was prolonging their life etc.
In the middle of the night one of the big electrolytic caps (about the size of a small soup can) decided to crap the bed. Dumped God know how many watts into my LF towers. Thought the house was being nuked. Killed the amp (naturally) but bottomed the voice coils in the 6 woofers. Killing yhe speakers too.
A dark day in my audio past.

All the Best,
Jeff

wyckerman,
The college I attended had a Mass-Spec (might have been a S.E.M. - too many years ago…) in the geology dept. It was ancient.
Inside there was a vacuum tube the size of my leg. Biggest damn tube I ever saw till I visited a broadcast tower.
Anyway, there was a big X marked with tape on one side. With the instructions to smack it at that spot or the system would not power up.

It’s really time for some of the players in the UPS field to start making reasonably priced LiFe powered units.
But I guess it’s not in their best interests. After all, selling a new battery pack every three years is a good business model. Not to mention the units that get pitched do to dead batts that folks don’t know they can change.

I’ve been thinking of Frankenstein-ing one to use at home after I make my final computer setup.

All the Best,
Jeff

Quite recently I gave my laptop a “Bud Spencer” style punch, :O and it stopped inmediately. The power button completely stopped working. I gave it a critical blow. ;-)

Hope the hard drive still works, just hope.

Nasty Pb batteries they're fitted with, they die fast and even faster if you deep discharge them.

The solution is to equip the UPS with a LiFePO4 battery. Some time ago I succesfully built a custom LiFePO4 battery for an old UPS, provided it with far greater capacity and runtime and with insanely greater lifespan.

My 10 year old laptop stopped booting up, can’t get past the windows logo. It was probably from me cycling the power button every time the wifi went out. Assuming a corrupted hard drive, any tricks to repair it? Also, what’s a good cheap laptop replacement? I only use it for browsing.

To fix a bad hard drive, I like Hard Disk Sentinel and Victoria the most.

You can use the volume while those programs are running.

I also like HDD Regenerator, but that dismounts the volume.

If you can, it's best to try to copy the bad hard drive before trying to fix it in case the hard drive gets worse or fails completely.

I'm sure other people can explain the best way to do that, as I don't remember the steps too well.

If it was me I would first clone (need another 2.5” HD) or image the HD (need space on another drive) to save off the data if possible. You need to remove the laptop HD and have a docking station and/or spare connectors on another computer to do this. You can use Macrium Reflect which is free for the imaging or cloning.

Since you have the laptop HD out I would also copy any essential files to another HD. If the drive is toast then this may not be possible.

Put the cloned HD into the laptop if you went that route. If it works then you’re good to go. If not, and you have Win10 on the old drive, then I would reinstall the O/S onto the original drive (if you imaged it) or the cloned drive.

This all assumes that nothing else you’ve done allows you to get past the Windows logo.

I tried to reinstall Windows 10 from a flashdrive I made with a creation tool. Still no luck. It will pin wheel for hours trying to self repair then says it can’t repair itself. I also tried all the trouble shooting suggestions to no avail.I saw an Asus E410MA for $169.99 at Best Buy. Any opinions on this computer for light duty?

Try a clean install and if that doesn’t work the HD is probably toast. I would still clone the drive and then install that one and see if it boots up since that’s a cheap and quick thing to do, especially if you have a spare drive lying around (doesn’t everyone :stuck_out_tongue: ).

I am doing another install. At this point what do I have to lose? I priced a hard drive at $60 and a ribbon connector for the screen at about $25 so a new computer for $169.99 sounds like a better idea. I just have to do some homework on which cheap computers are a good value.

$169 for a computer? I wouldn’t recommend that to my worst enemy. For that price you’re getting the worst of the worst. If you buy cheap computers you’ll be buying new ones every couple of years because at those price points you are getting terrible out-of-box performance and the worst build quality. Your CPU alone should be worth more than $169.

FYI for those of you using recent APC smart-UPS units. You will want to deal with this. I switched do a different vendor for my UPS and do not have them cloud connected. You may want to review your situation.