I don’t know if this is the case for all C3s, but I noticed that the threads on all of the male-style connections (e.g., from the body tube to the head) are anodized, with only the ends of the connections un-anodized.
This means that the negative contact between the battery tube and the pill and driver is via solder “nubs” and between the battery tube and the tailcap switch is via contact between the end of the tube and edge of a metal cup that the tailcap switch is in.
I gather that the usual reason for anodizing the threads is when a light has an electronic switch, i.e., so that such a light can be turned off completely (locked out) by loosening the tailcap.
But, in the case of the C3, that has a regular mechanical switch, so I’m wondering why they went through the bother of anodizing the threads in this case?
Cheaper just to dunk the whole tube in the anodization solution then clean off the ring for the connection than try to anodize then either machine the threads or clean off the annodization
I got one too…actually pretty amazing the light that comes out of that little guy ain’t it?
I am contemplating replacing the 1 mode with this 5 mode driver
The reason for my question was that most of the cheap lights I have don’t have the threads anodized, so I’ve always assumed that it’s cheaper to not have the threads anodized (maybe something on the threads to prevent them from being anodized?). In the case of the C3, it (the anodized threads) also makes some of the dimensions more critical, e.g., at least on the one I have, it’s hard to get it to work in the 1xAA configuration, I think because the battery end of the tube is not touching the metal cup inside the tailcap.
I wanted to know if there was a specific reason for the anodized thread, because I’m thiniking of trying to strip some of the anodization off of the threads, to get better contact.
Contact should be fine, although it would be better if the ring around the driver were thicker so the battery tube hit the pill instead of the solder blobs. That would give is a very good electrical connection. Even better, try seeing if you could solder the driver in place to the inside of the pill. That's a bit tricky since you can't see the solder. It would leave the outside of the pill with a flat ideal contact area for the battery tube.
IMO, anodized threads are better. When I spend more on a light, I demand anodized threads, although I'll eventually start anodizing so I can "fix" lights that don't come with anodized threads. Keep in mind that all lights with anodized threads can be locked out unless they use a battery holder that doesn't pass current through the battery tube like the Sunwayman D40A or Eagletac MX25.
As far as why some cheap lights have anodized threads and others don't is a matter of how they set up their process. Some will do some machining, then anodize, then take it back to the machine shop to cut the threads and file the end of the tubes. Others will do the machining first, anodize, then file the end of the tubes.
(maybe something on the threads to prevent them from being anodized?). In the case of the C3, it (the anodized threads) also makes some of the dimensions more critical, e.g., at least on the one I have, it’s hard to get it to work in the 1xAA configuration, I think because the battery end of the tube is not touching the metal cup inside the tailcap.