I am happy about my Fireflies lights (E07X/Nov-Mu) expect one thing: The button. Too stiff and you barely feel the click. I would’ve prefered the traditional rubber switch. Other than that, they are very good. No UI nor quality issues.
+1 on the FF switches. I got 5 FF lights and they are great, except for the switch - way too stiff, not good feedback, and again, for the ramping UI's, I don't think it's a good match., but everyone has their prefs/opinions.
They were and are advanced lights - alum alloy they use is great, optics are good, and performance is outstanding.
@Lojik…Understand this….1) There is a bug with the E12R and 2) My spinal cord damage makes 10 clicks on the lights very hard. Now that, I knew was required before purchase, but the issue with the UI is an issue. I would not be as critical with Sofirn, Astrolux, Olight or others for the same because I have bought a lot of those, so the sample size is huge, When 1 of 2 lights….the most expensive one has such issues, it is a very small sample size. Emisar/Noctigon I still have none of. I have never bashed Fireflies before, because I have never had one, which is the point. That E12R may be the only one the factory sent out with the bug I described, but when it was my first Fireflies light, it is harder to guage. I have no issue with Anduril 2 having a simple menu, but if the max lumen is only possible in advanced menu, make advanced default or at least make it 5 clicks to be a little easier. That is especially true with a metal button that is hard to feel the clicks through. I actually hope they, and all the light manufacturers read these posts to identify areas where issues exist for future designs. I have a lot of Thrunite lights including the TN42 that I loved, but when I got the TN 42 V2 with it’s proprietary batteries I posted about that idiotic decision too. Fortunately I found a fix for that. You and others have obviously gotten great lights from Fireflies based on your defense of them, but I posted my issues based on a sample of 2. Both were very frustrating to get to the avanced UI, but only the E12R has an actual defect…as described. I could have easily gotten a defect from Sofirn, but had I done so, it would have been #2 out of 100. I did have a defect in a Sofirn IF25. My post was 100% true, and I even said it was my first 2 lights from them. There are factory defects with every brand.
To be fair, that advanced UI is not their fault…I agree. If the button were easier to feel the clicks on, I think it would not be that hard. I do not know when or if I might try a factory reset, because then I will have to click another hour to get back to the advanced UI. It literally took me that long on both lights. I even questioned if the 10 clicks might be an issue right after I ordered. I knew it might be, but to be fair, that is more an issue with a malfunctioning damaged spinal cord on me. It requires 13 clicks or holding the switch in while screwing in the endcap to factory reset. I could do the holding in the switch, unfortunately there is not a similar easy way to switch to the advanced UI. I actually did the 13 clicks once trying for 10. I have other lights with Anduril 2 coming and at least one other already.
No issues with the quality of the lights other than the defect described. The 10 clicks issues are less to do with their light than my physical ability to feel the clicks due to a damaged spinal cord. It is not like they hid that feature from me…I openly in this forum posted the 10 clicks might be a problem.
Just checked the WildTrail out compared to the Thrunite TN42V2. It seems to at least throw as far, if not further, but I have nothing real far away to shine both at yet. I like it better than the TN42V2 so far. It get 2 thumbs up from me so far.
Sarge, I was looking forward to your feedback because I knew you had the through night, awesome to hear that you like this even more! Hopefully mine will be in the next week or so can't wait
Just got an update last night actually. They are still on scheduled and set to be finished end of next week and then a few days to put together but there is another China holiday that will delay things a few days, so most likely the week after next when they are ready.
Yes, I would consider those 2 lights performance nearly identical, but only after I modified the TN42 V2 by removing the insulator thread and adding insulator batteries from Thrunite, which allowed me to use orbtronic cells. My one concern with the WildTrail is this. In the very unlikel event of 1 cell of the 3 having an internal short, is their anything built into the carrier to protect the other 2 batteries from being damaged by the shorted one?
If you mean will they over-discharge, most likely, this is an issue with virtually all multi-cell lights.
If you mean will it somehow short out the remaining cells, most likely not, unless it is a catastrophic failure of some kind in which case you have other issues. The most likely outcome is it over-discharging the remaining cells.
Yes, unless you are like me and do not mind having two different lights with near identical performance, if you have the WildTrail, I see no compelling reason to buy a thrunite TN42 V2. The beam profile is almost identical. Next stop…I hope, the Acebeam K75, but only if it ever goes on sale. That light just never seems to reach my 250 dollar self imposed limit. The cheapest I have seen it is 279.00.
Yes, unless you are like me and do not mind having two different lights with near identical performance, if you have the WildTrail, I see no compelling reason to buy a thrunite TN42 V2. The beam profile is almost identical. Next stop…I hope, the Acebeam K75, but only if it ever goes on sale. That light just never seems to reach my 250 dollar self imposed limit. The cheapest I have seen it is 279.00.
[/quote]
——————————————————————————————————-
How is the tint comparison with the TN42 V2 and your WT90?
My TN42vn 90 CFT90 is NW.5500K
Is the color temp. Of WT90 around 5700K?
Well what I mean is, an internal short of a cell in parallel may become a short for the other 2 as well. When it is shorted internally, would it not then measure zero ohms between the anode and cathode of the battery? If so it will be like putting a wire between the + and - terminals of the non- shorted batteries.
Usually bad batteries open when they fail, which would just result in the two good batteries carrying the load. I have never seen a battery show an internal short…can that even happen?
Yes, that is possible, but also a risk with any multi-cell light.
The reason I said unless it is a catastrophic failure above is that if that was to happen, first it will be a dead short of the cell that failed, the other 2 are just collateral damage at that point lol.
In reality most cells die slowly by getting higher and higher resistance so they self-discharge faster.
I have done some really messed up poop to cells over the years and never had one just randomly decide to become a dead short. Had a lot die in other ways though.
This is not to say it can’t happen, it can and does but like I said above, if that happens you already have issues from the cell that failed to worry about.
All of that said, if that was to happen and the full amps were to attept to transfer between cells, it would almost assuredly blow a trace, spring or FET before it could dump too much power into the dead cell. Not designed for that situation but I have had melted springs save me from inserting a cell backwards a few times.
Like I said, I have never yet had a dead short in a battery, and have had many with an open condition. I think I might just remove the batteries from the carriage when not being used for over a day to be totally safe. Most of my lights with a carriage carrier have protected cells in them. If not, I do not store them very long in the carriage. That might be somewhat paranoid, but it will be no doubt safer. If such happened while holding it, the body of the light would likely let me know well before the cells vent.