WildTrail WT90 - SBT90.2 1800m+ throw 90mm 3x 21700 With Texas_Ace driver

Yeah, you might be able to carefully use some needle nose pliers to gently lift up on the spring. Do not apply much force or you can rip the pad right off the driver.

Agree with TA there - careful going. I'd use my hot air station and remove it to work on it, then solder it back, but understand limitations.

Ok. I will use one screwdriver to hold the base of the spring down to the driver and then needle-nose to gently lift up. I’ve done this before with other lights but it was the carrier not the driver spring.

I’ll be very careful. I hope I don’t screw it up! I’ll be paying $35 shipping there and back for medium flat-rate box . Don’t believe this will fit in a large envelope. Not as safe in one of those envelopes anyway.

Course I would need a volunteer to fix it and have to pay them. Probably looking at 60 $70. But I have to think positive I’ll see what happens when I get home.

This spring is very stiff unlike other springs, personally I think I would just give it a little tug and if that doesn’t work remember to insert the carrier the right way. Most carriers are one way insertion anyways.

There is very little warning when you pull a pad off, it just suddenly lets go.

I will be gentle I won’t force it. It doesn’t stretch I’ll leave it as is.

I can just tell you about my other five lights. All five of them the carrier can be put in either way.

TN31,TN42,K40,K60 and X65.

And of course this one but so far not my case!

Final thought on this carrier it was a poor design all the way around. Between the parasitic drain, my driver head spring and the USB end where the surrounding area around the brass nut is recessed. Why isn’t it flat like the opposite end?

Success from the amateur modder!! :+1:

I could not get a good grip with the needle nose. Didn’t want to rip it off the pad.

I used Two little screw drivers.One to hold down bottom of spring and one to gently lift up.

The carrier Now works in either direction. :sunglasses:

BEFORE

AFTER

Good fix!

My carrier has contact problems if I close light by screwing down the tail end, but if I do the tail end tight first and then close the light in the middle, contact is fine.

This points to tight tolerances too, and it might be improved by stretching that spring as well.

Yeah, I think that the retaining ring is slightly too tall for the spring. Not a big deal but causes an issue like this.

Far as why the other end of the carrier is recessed, not sure that was not my department.

The retaining ring may be too high. That’s a non-factor if my spring wasn’t squashed!

I am glad I was able to fix it.Tom E’s carrier is modded.When I get that I will provide comparison photos before I send mine to him.

Thanks everyone for the input.

Thanks…Pretty soon I will be in the top 10 BLF Modders! Not! :smiley:

The recessed brass nut on the USB end is not a problem - if you remove the tube and manually press the carrier up against the driver, on mine there's plenty of force needed to get it down. The problem is the spring, and seems to be a one-off issue. I hope the spring doesn't tend to flatten though, then it may become a common problem.

Springs are a mechanical/electrical science all to itself. I know some of the copper springs we used to get from FastTech tended to compress down, depends on the primary spring metal used. Pure copper is not good - too soft, so springs are some sort of hybrid, or coated spring steal. Beryllium copper is more common to use for springs, but I don't think it's 100% beryllium copper. I don't know enough about the materials and composition, but this could be a potential issue with these springs.

20A on a spring with a bit too much resistance can cause it to heat up and loose its tension. If this spring does do that I will try one of the BlueSwordM springs, those should handle 20A fine. Or a spring by-pass like Tom did, that will solve any current/softening issues.

Good point djozz. I'm think'n only one LED, but boy, what a LED!

My HK90 (pics here) has 3 of these LED's, but only one spring per battery (of 3) while this light has 1 driver spring for 3 batteries. Also the HK90 came with dual springs, which I replaced with Blue bypassed springs.

I betta this single SBT90.2 pulls more amps from the 3 cells, then the HK90 pulls from 3 SBT90.2's from each cell.

It's gotta be a super spring to handle good cells for any length of time on turbo.

My WT90 is on Turbo until its too hot too hold.Then cool down for 2 or 3 minutes on probably 300 to 500 lumens.Right back to Turbo and repeat the process

I hope it holds up.

Been doing that on my TN42vn 90 SBT 90 NW for 3 years with no issues.That has a raised Button top on the positive end.Not a spring.

TN42 positive contact. This maybe more expensive but has to be better than a spring. Solid Steel, whatever it is brass?

Probably brass. The spring on the WT90 look like good quality and they’re short as well, but yes, a solid current path is preferable for 20+ amps.

Have we figured out the yellow light in the battery carrier yet? It seems to serve no purpose, and introduces parasitic drain that won’t stop once the cells reach 2.5 volts. Unscrewing the head/ mechanically locking out a light is normal practice for me, but removing every cell from a battery carrier when the light isn’t in use is supremely annoying, and takes much much longer. Is there any solution?

Basically the LED itself only draws a small amount of the current in the carrier. It should not be there but it is not the root cause of the issue.

The fix is to basically disable the charging. Someone was going to try disconnecting the VCC pin to see if that was enough but don’t know if they tried it yet.

The extreme option is to remove all the components from the charging PCB and that will fix it for sure.

You are right. It is Brass.Did some research and watched some reviews.

I hear you.It is Frustrating.

For the money this is a very good light.

However,I would have gladly paid $20/$25 more to have a Brass button top contact at the head(positive end) and completely done away with USB charging or at least be like others where the USB port is on the outside of the light and not on the carrier that is causing parasitic drain issues.

Like many things in life, it is what it is and Acceptance is the key…but voicing ones opinion and or complaining first helps! :smiley: