You can’t just replace an XHP70.2 with the SBT-90. So far the XHP70s have only been available as 6V or 12V versions. SBT-90 is 3V. Also, with the same drive power, the XHP70.2 most likely puts out more light. The SBT-90 is not designed as a high efficiency/output but more as a high intensity LED (with still large output of course).
The replacement head for my WT90 arrived. Thank you to you, Texas Ace, and Wild Trail as well. I tried it, and it fired up right away. As some have stated the beam intensity is incredible. So far, I am happy with the light. The only other issue I found is that at first the light started to flicker on/off by itself. The batteries were fully charged. Long story short, it was an issue with the head not making full contact with the driver. So, I went on YouTube, and found someone who suggested to make sure to grease the treads and o-rings. I did, and it solved the issue. The treads were not greased from the factory. So, anyone with a similar problem make sure to grease the threads and o-rings. I wish I could fix the other head for this light. But, I am not the most technical inclined person in the world. The flashlight is definitely a must buy for anyone who loves lights.
What’s a good lube for the O-rings that won’t degrade the rubber over time?
I use pure silicone grease. And, Dow corning 33 light. It is made for paintball gun o-rings. It also works on any other o-rings. I picked both of them up on Amazon They are both made specifically for o-rings. They will not damage them.
Thanks!!
I’ve just run into a bit of a compatibility issue with the new carrier i have.
I’ve used it a couple of times as a power bank and having just checked the battery voltages it turns out only one out of the three batteries is being used.
I’m using a set of Samsung 48G batteries which have a slightly recessed positive terminal. Compared to the original carrier the new carrier has softer negative contact springs and lower positive contact nubs, and it seems this combination can result in a lack of contact between the battery and carrier positive terminals.
The 48Gs only make a connection in one out of the three positions, a Samsung 40T i tested makes a connection on all three positions but a re-wrapped 40T i tried only made a connection in two positions.
In the third position, if i push the re-wrapped 40T up against the positive terminal it makes contact, this doesn’t happen with a 48G so the margins are fine which means i don’t know how good the contact is for the batteries that are making a connection. As a power bank there is a lot less power passing through the connection compared to using the WT90 on full which is where a weaker connection may have implications. (I’m thinking both increased resistance and a connection breaking due to movement but i don’t know how valid these points are in practice.)
And while the 48Gs work in the original carrier i find it too difficult to remove them without tearing the wrapper precisely because there’s a tighter fit (slightly easier with the 40Ts but still difficult), and i won’t leave any batteries in that carrier due to the very likely scenario of me leaving them there for long enough for the batteries to be rendered unusable by the carrier drain, hence purchasing the new carrier.
As it stands i can’t use the 48G in either carrier, i’m reluctant to use 40Ts in the old carrier and am unsure about them in the new carrier due to not knowing how solid a connection they make. (I don’t have any other recessed terminal batteries to test.)
I see this as unfortunate rather than a flaw with the carrier, and i can obviously get around this by using batteries with a flat/raised positive terminal.
It’s just something to be aware of and if you’re using batteries with a recessed positive terminal i would suggest checking battery voltages after use to make sure they are all connecting.
And if anyone has an ideas on how to verify the integrity of the connection the 40Ts make in the new carrier i would like to hear them.
That is sadly the trade off with the smaller nubs to not catch the wrappers I am afraid.
The easiest option would be to add a really small solder blob to the cells, that should fix the issue for this and any future lights.
The dim green button wasn’t doing it for me so I had Adair21 swap in some red LED’s and adjust the resistors to brighten it up. Plus I had already de-anodized and polished the bezel and updated to Anduril 2. This is a very impressive light.
Hey, so I’m in need of a replacement lens. Anyone know where I can get my hands on one?