Will it work with a 10440 battery?

Hey folks i hope all is well!

I was sitting here thinking about what AAA lights work with a 10440. So i thought i would start a list and feel free to add to the list. It will help other BLF members know what flashlights are okay to use a 10440 in.

Some light may not give a performance increase by using a 10440 which would make it obsolete to use a 10440 in that light seeing as the Ni-MH variant will offer a longer run time.

Also vice versa If you have any 10440 lights that will work with a standard AAA that would be valuable information to have!

I am adding for the sake so you can see for your self if it is worth using a either battery!

Ohhh almost forgot i own the Hugsby XP-1 and XP-2 but using a 10440 always burns out the tail cap to much current. The driver can handle the power i tried with different hugsby flashlights i bought from different shops no good for me! but bridging the tail cap works fine!

I just took these pics now and it was raining on me so it may interfere a little with the beams. When i first started my Youtube channel it was raining in most of my videos it feels warming to me lol!

Singfire 348 Special edition… 10440
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Singfire 348 Special edition… Eneloop pro.
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Lumintop tool AAA 110 lumen version…Eneloop pro…
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Lumintop tool…. 10440
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Thorfire PF03…10440. Note it does blink one time when you turn the light on?
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Thorfire PF03… Eneloop pro
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Crelant V1A…10440
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Crelant V1A… eneloop pro… Meh at best i wouldn’t recommend using a standard AAA
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The random Soshine AAA flashlight i own still not sure on the model number lol! 10440
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Soshine… Eneloop pro… Not much difference actually!
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Jetbeam Jet-u…Eneloop pro. I am not sure what is brighter this or the Lumintop tool
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Jetbeam Jet-u…10440 …Easily the brightest out of the bunch! still super bright with a standard AAA
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Astrolux A01… Eneloop pro. looks good on the camera!
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Astrolux A01…10440. Maybe twice as bright.
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Cool!

I find it very interesting that you tested the A01 with a 10440! Which cell did you use? Did it get hot?

Hey mate i used a Soshine 10440 i should mention my A01 is copper so it didn’t heat up much. Even the lighter lights do okay like the lumintop tool that is very light weight light and it can handle the heat well…

I wonder how Jet-u bright.
I`m using BLF-348 and Darkwim from BIC with 10440. First consumes about 1A with fully charged cell and bright enouth. Second eats about 2A, but makes just little more light.
Seems that Jet-u have 2A or more in max level with 10440. Are you sure it won`t be broken with li-ion? they are not supported by specification.

Lol i can not guarantee it wont break! Mine works fine i have had the 10440 in the light a few times. If any thing it would put less stress on the driver because it wont have to step the voltage up? But i guess it depends on the driver quality? As long as the LED doesn’t get to many volts it should be okay?

Led should be ok anyway, driver may came too hot.
Can you measure Jet-u max current with AAA and 10440?

I would not suggest trying the Tool with the electronic tailcap. Word is that it does not like it. :slight_smile:

1.5 amps with NiMH

1.5 amps with the 10440

Weird i guess it regulates the current and not the voltage through the driver.

That was a pain in the arse to fit my Multi-Meter leads in the head of the light!

Thanks! I have an Alu version, oh well maybe someday if I feel adventurous… :slight_smile:

If you hold it around the head it should be okay.

It wont be any worse then the BLF A6 heat wise i guess lol!

Thank you for this.
I have blf348 on 10440.
Cant wait for my jetbeam.

I can confirm the Soshine 10440 2A cells are the exact same length as the eneloop aaa.

They work in the

Olight i3e
Olight i3s [xpg2 version]
Olight i3s-cu [brass XP-L version]

And still function correctly on nimh.

You mentioned the Hugsby XP-1 and the 10440.

There are several issues regarding this simple mod. An authentic and original XP-1 will not handle the 10440. The LED will light for about 2 seconds then go out. It doesn’t burn the LED up but it definitely shuts the light down. Why exactly I don’t know.

There are several versions of the XP-1 clone being distributed. I have encountered two different ones. The only noted difference is the MCPCB size. One is slightly larger than the other and the best suited among all of them including the authentic to upgrade the LED.

The clones will (being stock) take the 10440 and provide a significant performance increase. I have not put it to the meter test under controlled conditions. The difference was significant enough at the time it suited my needs. Another problem with testing the lights for total lumen output and general performance is with regards to the reflector type. Clones have a smooth type and the authentic has a OP. The dimensions are much different also.

The clones have a driver which is more forgiving or better suited for any mod.

The authentic MCPCB is way too small and may be a contributing factor to shutdown with 10440.

Anyway I think I broke this down in another post somewhere. The bottom line is if you combine the parts from several versions and replace the LED with an XPG3 you get a really really nice and bright little light that works with either 1.5 or 3.7 volt.

Also, regarding the tail switch. As long as the center ring is tightened inward of the cap the arcing is kept in check and I personally havent had any problems yet (except where the center retaining ring did back off).

Also one more thing, the protection circuit on most 10440’s is a pain in the rear and severely limit the run time. Atleast with the **fire batteries. With my personal edc’s i remove the protection circuit, re-wrap the battery and use a quality nitecore or xtar charger. I am careful how low I let them get but they are cheap enough who cares about the $1.00 losss when an extra 5-10 minutes of run time can allow you to complete a task which has double digit dollar losses per minute for production. I dont recommend removing the protection circuit. A low battery can be a fire hazard probably more so than a charged one. Just saying.

It is not good idea for lights with boost circuit. It can works good with linear or fet drivers, but boost driver will empty battery to very low voltage very fast (there is almost no capacity under 3.0v).

What I would be curious about is not just which light will turn on with the usual 10440 Li-ion cell but which lights show a voltage range up to 3.0 Volts.

My reasoning is that while a 3.7 V Li-ion 10440 (using the term loosely) may allow the light to function may can easily handle 3.2 V LifeP04's with no adverse or minimal effects (except no protection circuits usually)

I fried an i3e with a 10440

EDIT : also, my alu I3S has some problems with modes switching since I used it with a li-ion…

Could you drop a link to the clone with bigger MCPCB? I assume you got it from Ali?
Thanks!

Maybe we could start a chart in the op listing the lights that have worked with 10440s or all aaa size lights for that matter. Then add a “yes or no” column according to the manufacturer. Then two columns with running totals confirming weather it works with 10440 or it fries with 10440. Example: three people say it works but one says it fries after long term use. Then the reader can confided the chance of failure by comparing the “It Works” column with the “It Fries” column. Lights with only the manufacturers data can be considered unconfirmed either way.

Idk? Just an idea. Might be a lot of work?