Meanwhile, I finally took the time to separate the two boards on a 2011 RRT-01 driver, that originally came in my first TCR-1, so I could replace the wires… one of them had been sheared off during disassembly of the light w sw45k that presently has a flickering 2019 driver…
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maybe tomorrow I will remove the flickering 2019 driver, and find out if the repair of the 2011 wires worked, and if the driver is flicker free.
If you need the replacement pins (2-pin and 3-pin header) for the RRT driver I can send some to you since I have extras.
thanks for your kindness… I do not think I will need new pins… I managed to reconnect the two boards to the existing pins…
thanks for inspiring me to tackle the task of unsoldering all those pins, to get the two boards apart… 
I had trouble sucking up the old solder so I cut all the pins and replaced them with new pins.
smart solution
I spent a loooong time working the pins free, heating while prying the boards apart, bit by bit
pretty exhausting… if the driver works without flicker, it will have been worth the time…
Could you please take some photos of each side of both boards that are detailed enough to identify all the components? Even geforce’s photos are too blurry to see most of the markings.
The driver board and pins were soaking up way too much heat so I had to crank the heat up to 400 C which melted the plastic support for the pins. Luckily I have extras so the 2nd attempt was a success (lol). Those pins don’t even cost much so I know I can afford to screw up and not worry about burning a huge hole in my pocket. 
sorry, but, I already put the sandwich back together.
I could mail you one of my spare drivers for dissection, in the interest of science… PM me your mailing…
If you manage to come up with a better driver, I will be very interested.
as much as I love the UI, there are a couple of things I wish were different… I would like LVP in the driver, and better regulated output.
I was tempted to go up to 400C, but resisted and stayed at 350C…
cutting the pins would have saved a Lot of time, if I had replacement pins, thanks for sharing that strategy.
Replacing the wires cured this problem:
There’s a defect that may reveal how the driver works (if not known already): On very low output, the light starts to PWM with approx. 10 Hz like a strobe. With increasing power, the frequency raises, then at a certain point goes down again and vanishes. This all happens within 0 – 8 lm or so.
… not the pulsing at moon-levels, which is of constant frequency and not really a problem.
Thanks for pointing me to this posting. I had already forgotten about that :(.
I HAZ SUCCESS!
Removed flickering 2019 driver, installed the 2011 Driver in TCR-1 w sw45k.
NO FLICKER!!!
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Glad you got your precious back working correctly 
Looks great, Jon!
Thank You!
I feel like Im walking on Sunshine.
Thank You!
We Wants It, We Needs It. Must Have The Precious!
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Walking Like an Egyptian
Great it works well again Jon. We need to keep this classics good shape 
Thank You!
I collected the 2020, 2019, and 2011 flicker test videos in this library:
The FlickerMan Album:
Jetbeam TCR-1, My Precious - Album on Imgur
ps, I also added flicker tests of unmodified 2011 RRT-01 and TCR-1…
flicker summary of my lights:
Five 2011 drivers do not flicker, (2 w stock LEDs, 2 modded)
One 2012 driver does not flicker (modded)
One 2019 driver flickers obviously (modded)
One 2020 driver flickers obviously, (modded)
One 2020 driver has very slight flicker that video cant capture easily. (modded). Flicker was worse w 219b, not as bad w 519a.
Here an sw45k w 2011 driver that has just 8% lower output than 519a w 2020 driver on 16340 (18350 is 13% brighter):
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fwiw, driver and LED outputs vary… I have 3x stock lights w 2011 drivers and XM-L LEDs. Outputs on my homebrew meter, are 370, 445, and 480 lumens (on 16340)… a range of 30% (not visually significant)
Man how good is this light that it generated over 1000 responses.
Tuned with just the right amount of Nyogel, the design feels like a precision instrument. Easily my favorite UI.
Thanks to everyone who took time out of their busy lives to add to this thread. It really is a one stop resource for modification or repair of the RRT .
I feel the same way!
Im especially fond of the 2011 and 2012 RRT-01 and TCR-1 with stock drivers, none of mine flicker.
wondering which LEDs you three are using.
I ask because it seems the 519a may not flicker as much (I can barely see it flicker by eye, and can hardly capture it on video)
as 219b
when I use 2019 and 2020 drivers… not sure…
tldnr:
I got No Flicker w a 2019 driver!
New problem, the 2011 driver that I repaired yesterday, now has high parasitic drain, it killed a battery overnight. I did a test with a fresh battery, and after 30 minutes with the light sitting, turned off, the voltage dropped 0.05V, and the battery got 10F warmer than a separate battery sitting on the same table (checked w IR gun)
I removed the repaired 2011 driver, and installed a second 2019 driver that I had not tried before… I think this one is good… no flicker:
my guess as to what is wrong w the 2011 driver, is that when I put the sandwich boards back together, I may have pushed them too close to each other, so there might be a component on the upper board, touching a component on the bottom board. Not sure…
I did add Kapton tape over the mcpcb solder joints, to eliminate the possibility of a short to the reflector…
Anyway, I did a 30 minute standby test w the 2019 driver (#2) with a battery installed in the light, and the high parasitic drain is gone. There was no measurable change in battery voltage.
I also did an IR thermometer test of the battery temperature, and it is not hotter than another battery sitting on my desk right next to the light.
so, I think I HAZ SUCCESS w a 2019 driver, tcr-1 #465 has NO flicker, and no high battery drain. This is exhausting… lol… time for a break
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