3 short ones laying flat on their side forming a triagle around the tail post, below the lanyard hole 
ala kuku/SOYCD/Hanko V10r Ti?:
or a double layer?:
and other yummy glowy bits:
some thoughts on dials, detents and ring smoothness
and a suggestion to do a test of the RRT-01 dial, after removing the ball bearing and spring
background info:
Types of rotary tracks:
1. RRT-01, old style, has ball bearing and spring in the dial, with detents only at full off and full On
2. RRT-01, new style, has ball bearing and spring in the dial, with detents only at full off and full On, plus 9 little hash marks in the ball track, on the early version, and now, those hash marks are no longer being produced.
3. Eye10, has ball bearing and spring in the dial, with detents at full off and full On, plus 9 strong detents along the rotation track.
4. Eye10 TiC, Has no ball bearing, no spring, no detents of any kind, the dial is smooth like butter
5. I dont have my TCR-1 yet, I dont know what it feels like, but Ive read it uses the same on and off detents as the RRT-01, with a smooth track. Im pretty sure that means theres a ball and spring in this one.
When the RRT-01 dial is rotated, even on the old model that has a completely smooth ball track, the dial is not buttery, its a bit gritty… Caused by the sensation of the ball moving in the track.
.
So
What would happen if the ball bearing and spring were removed from the RRT-01, or Eye10?
Would the dial become buttery smooth like on the Eye10 TiC?
Im going to find out in a few weeks, when my Eye10 with ball and spring removed arrives.
.
I invite people who open their new RRT-01 to experiment and report back. What happens if you remove the ball bearing and spring. Does the dial become buttery, smooth, and delicious?
I hear Nyogel 765 makes the dial feel like Nikon lens
I hope to try that too…
My TCR-01 has a ball bearing at full off and full on like the old RRT-01.
However, unlike the old RRT-01, the action of turning the ring on the TCR-01 is not gritty. Its ring feels quite smooth. It has the best feeling ring of all my rotary lights (my collection also includes old style RRT-01, Eye10, Sunwayman V10A, Sunwayman V10R, Sunwayman V11R).
I got mine from a Dutch source.
https://www.m2baitandtackle.com/nl/beetmelders-accesoires/accesoires/
My light was already without ano and I had to machine the sides and the depth. Maybe I was just on the unlucky side of the production tolerances.
Sorry Jon and if you happen to find short clips somewhere please let me/us know.
Bought my trits at M2 too.
Jon_Slider, nice collection! What do you think of the throw from your light with the triple emitter?
Been very happily using my aluminum RRT01 as a headlamp. In a Malkoff Devices headband. It’s great being able to dial in the exact amount of light that’s needed.
I cant say, the triple Eye10 is thousands of miles away from me atm. I hope to receive it next month
and the Triple Eye10 TiC has been returned to the original owner
I do not use my lights outdoors hardly at all, throw is not one of my areas of interest
I use my lights indoors, and at very close range mostly
I believe a single LED in a reflector with clear lens is inherently going to have a more focused hotspot, that will throw more than a triple TIR, even if it has a narrow clear optic
but, I have not done any throw tests to compare
the only image I can offer is extreme close range, to illustrate the beam shape of the 18 degree Tir on the triple N219a that is in the Eye10 TiC that I no longer have in my posession:
Good enough, thanks Jon.
I’m not impressed with the throw from the triple emitter in my TCR-01. It’s ok, but definitely throws less than the original single emitter smooth reflector or OP reflector from the Eye10.
I think triple and quad emitters work best in lights that can supply enough current to really take advantage of the extra emitters. Lights like the Emisar D4 with a FET and no sense resistor artifically limiting the output. The main advantage of multiple emitters is they can generate thousands of lumens. That advantage is lost if you’re using a fairly low output driver like in the older RRT-01 or Eye10, or even the new RRT-01.
I’m actually thinking of swapping my TCR-01 triple back to a single emitter. If I do so, I would probably use the orange peel reflector from the Eye10, combined with an SST-20 4000K 95 CRI, and a Lee Minus Green filter just behind the lens.
Don’t forget that triple and quad parallel setup paired with true constant current driver will give you longer regulated runtime than single.
[Clemence]
trying to find the right O ring size.
black one FKM Viton, is just a bit too big!.
;
my RRT-01 Flat White (1);
Very nice!
I saw your post and immediately swapped the emitter in my 2019 RRT-01 for an Oslon White from International Outdoors. Turns the light into a small thrower.
The Oslon works quite well in these lights since peak current isn’t too high for the emitter.
Put a 219C in mine (I know I know, so last year) and reamed out the centering ring. That thing is a pain to get over a 219C. I doubt it will be the final LED/reflector combination but it will do for now.
CCT = 4062K (Duv 0.0014) / Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 89.8 [ R9 = 56.4 ]
Djozz, your wish might have come true:
Vapcell 16340 they rate it at 7A.
They re-used the 14500 thread and only edited OP. Terrible forum usage but battery seems decent!
Yes, I noticed that, great news for 16340 light owners. It seems to have very good specifications.
I wonder if it comparable to the 16340 cells that come with the latest high performance 16340 flashlights (I assume it is all the same cell with a different wrap), or if it is better than those.
I’m going to have to get some of those Vapcell 16340s for my 16340 lights. Not the RRT-01 though since that uses 18350.
From Vinh!
RRT01 with XHP50.2 (5500K) & Diffused lens & Zircon Filter
Wow, little beast this thing is. I like mine but,the tint shift is crazy. This seems to be what I’m looking for.