Thanks Jon, but that’s not a good solution IMO. With RRT01 you need to tighten the battery tube so not to interfere the rotary action. If there’s still some space before the thread stopper stops it, then you might crush the battery. Perhaps this is why JB makes it strobing at very low battery voltage, so you will definitely know when to replace the battery. It’s a pity there’s no thermal protection in the driver.
I will find try to find another way to overcome this problem.
I dont like the exposed brass either, nor his pocket clip… what Vinh likes and what I like are different
I like the short pocket clips, and thanks to a tip from toddcshoe, I learned they are available for $1 each, plus shipping, by writing to info@jetbeamlight.com
they sent me this image to confirm my order…
I agree its a pity there is no thermal protection…
I also think it is a shame there is no LVP in the driver
the LVP solution for muggles, is to use the included protected 16340, which I think also solves the thermal problem Clemence discovered with an unprotected high discharge 18350…
I hear it is also unwise to tailstand a light on high mode, but muggles do that too
maybe best to only give muggles CR123 cells…
I think tailstanding is fine. The RRT-01 doesn’t draw enough current to get really hot. Also the battery voltage will drop before there is a danger. This isn’t an Emisar D4 in terms of heat or output.
Lack of LVP is an issue though, but shouldn’t be a problem so long as you pay attention to the light.
I disagree, I just tested and stock RRT01 left uncooled was extremely hot. The base of the torch farthest from the head was too hot to touch. You’ll get blister if you try to touch it to more than 2 seconds. It also melted my Vapcell wrapper. Tripped the battery overheat protection too.
EDIT: and this is lower output RRT01 at just 770lm OTF measured
Guess I haven’t tried tailstanding it long enough yet then.
Yikes Clemence! looks like this light definitely shouldn’t be left tailstanding on max!
Last night I went and modded my old RRT-01.
It had the original driver from my TCR-01 in it. The driver unfortunately was damaged or defective as it would periodically flash. I replaced the driver wires with 22 gauge wires and stacked a 51 ohm resistor onto the sense resistor. Unfortunately, none of this fixed the occasional flashes.
Even worse, the light now has a new problem. When I turn it on max from off, it will tend to turn off on its own after less than 30 seconds. However, if I stop the ring a few degrees before it locks into max turbo then that problem disappears. I wonder if the magnetic sensor’s calibration is somehow off-target.
I also replaced the emitter I had inside with a triple XPL-HI and Carclo 10507 optic.
It’s quite nice now if only I could fix the turn off and blinking issue. At a guess maybe 1200+ lumens at turn-on with an 1100 mAh Aspire 18350 inside (based on very approximate ceiling bounce test, and on how quickly my hand heats up when I shine it on it point blank).
The issue with the light occasionally blinking on and off only happens once every 30-seconds to 2 minutes. I can live with that. But the turning off issue is no good. I’ll need to work on a solution. Some possible fixes:
Salvage the driver currently in my Niteye Eye10. That light currently sports the original RRT-01 driver. It works fine with no blinks or issues… but the output is low. Perhaps the resistor mod will up the output hopefully without destroying the driver; or
Add a stop inside the ring to prevent the ring from traveling the full 120 degrees. A few degrees less turn should fix the issue without visibly reducing max output. If I choose this option the stop would be a bit of copper sheet cut into a small rectangle or square.
To anyone doubting this small RRT01 can’t be that hot, here’s the evidence:
Out of curiosity:
The pressure caused by the heat bulged the safety switch outside, breaking electrical contact path. Drilled, there was small “poof” sounds along with pungent gas fart and little liquid released, the is now membrane relieved back inside. Now the cell works normally without any (safety switch), but I don’t think it’s safe to use anymore.
I haven’t opened my 2019 RRT-01 to compare the driver to the old RRT-01’s, but I suspect they are probably the same design, but with a bit more current going through.
Back when the original RRT-01 was released, outputs were a lot lower and temp sensors on flashlights were rare. Today, outputs are higher and temp sensors are more common.
It sounds like the driver simply hasn’t been updated with a temp sensor or low voltage protection. That’s too bad.
It’s still a great light though, but just be aware when you use it that this one is lacking some of the safety features found in other lights.
For Children, a High CRI HDS is safer than an RRT-01, because
HDS are not 18350 compatible,
are limited to 200 lumens,
have a 33% auto step down at 40 seconds,
and auto shut off at 3.0v
.
Preposterous Proposition Warning: A resident of the State of California has determined that the RRT-01 is not suitable for children. Responsible use of 18350 LiIon flamethrowers requires an “intelligent” adult operator.