WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

Buy / Sell Want to Buy
81

Ahah, I guess we both can live with that burden on my back :wink: :beer:
Happy owners won’t comply :stuck_out_tongue:

It surely did and I’m pretty happy with that as well :smiley:

I guess CRX is the best person to explain about that mod, I will only be able to provide the “final” version of the battery in comparison with Keeppower and Aspire!

Hum…I don’t know if I would be that sure jon, please note that we don’t know what’s in the interior bottom of the flashlight! It may not have the space to fit a protected Keepower, that are really long!! I take as comparison the Wuben 16340 battery (protected) that is much longer than the normal 16340s, including the Olight 16340 (from S1R Baton 1)

Too much wish to get one of these…and so few money to do that :weary:

82

I’m sure it was a Keeppower 850-900mAh cell or similar but I also may have applied a protection circuit to a flat top 18350, sorry I really can’t remember exactly.

Anyway the important part is that there is no button top, the protection strip is soldered flat on top of the positive contact, also I had to file down the lanyard stud which was protruding into the cell compartment and I might have shaved a little off of the positive driver contact plus sanded down the surrounding plastic RVP ring to make the protected cell just fit.

83

I was referred here by jon_slider. I have one of the first generation RRT-01, and it is my favorite for the control ring with no detents, no tail switch and ultra low level. It has the original emitter, which is not my favorite.

I would be in for buying a Hi-CRI modded light from Clemence.

84

Welcome to the conversation Ironhorse.
I look forward to learning more about the new RRT-01 with you.
And I look forward to Clemence sharing his research and hopefully offering High CRI modded RRT-01 options.

I also really enjoy the super low modes and smooth ramping of the RRT-01. The only thing I wish it had was a low battery indicator. In the meantime I check my battery with a voltmeter on regular intervals, and I am also keeping an eye out for any dimming caused by low voltage.

The other day it seemed like I was needing to turn the dial further than usual to get a typical amount of light, so I put it on my light meter and discovered the maximum was about half of normal. I then tested the Protected 16340 battery and found it was near 3.06 volts, so I swapped it out for a fresh one, and recharged.

I know people feel IMR chemistry is safer regarding its reaction to overdischarge, but Im even more interested than ever, in trying the 1200mAh protected version. Im seriously considering driving the 36 miles to illumn.com today, to pick one up.

It is good to find so many people who appreciate the RRT-01. I keep meeting more and more of you, and am glad we are finding each other through these discussions.

Rotary UI and High CRI are two of my favorite features these days. Its a good time to be learning of new RRT-01 LED, battery, and new model options together.

.

Im starting to wonder, who among us is using unprotected 18350 IMR in our RRT-01’s, and what strategies do they use, to manage unprotected batteries safely, and to prevent overdischarge?

Until recently I have relied on protected 16340, but atm Im experimenting with unprotected IMR. My use pattern is not high brightness, nor long runtime, so I dont have high risk of overdischarging, and Im using my voltmeter a couple times a week to keep an eye on my usage patterns.

85

The original RRT-01 is easy to emitter swap. The bezel was not glued and inside is space for a standard sized star (been awhile since I opened mine up, but I think it was 16mm).

The only important thing to keep in mind when opening it:

When unscrewing the bezel one hand (or pliers) should grip the bezel. The other should grip the head ABOVE the magnetic ring. Do not grip the head below the magnetic ring. If you do there is a chance that instead of the bezel unscrewing, the 2 halves of the head around the ring might unscrew. If that happens while the star is installed, you will torque the driver wires and possibly rip them off the driver. The wires can be repaired or replaced, but it is not easy as the driver is a sandwich and the wires are attached in the middle.

If you need more help gripping the strip of head above the magnetic ring apply grip tape.

86

Yeah these lights will take the cell below healthy voltage without you noticing if you’re not careful. Great otherwise.

87

Thank you for sharing info.

I decided to do some testing to correlate lumen levels with voltage levels

What I learned is a CR123 cell below 2.9v, cannot achieve 100 lumens maximum
a CR123 cell, below 3.1v cannot achieve 200 lumens maximum
and the IMR, above 3.9v, can achieve over 400 lumens maximum

for visual learners like me:

note that for the IMR, I had to switch the scale on the light meter by 10x (yellow arrows), so the 43.7 corresponds to 437 lumens. In all cases, the rotary dial is at Maximum.

This is with an N219b 4500k 9080 LED mod in my RRT-01. My light meter is calibrated to my 200 lumen HDS.

Conclusion, when my RRT-01 w IMR battery drops to 25% of initial brightness, it is not yet overdischarged, and still a safe time to recharge.

88

Hello Firelight2,

I Bought a JetBeam Tc-R1 Titanium Flashlight that I Used about 4 years and Loved the Magnetic Ring Brightness Control, until it was lost. I bought a used one on Flea(Bay) a few years ago and in only 3 weeks when changing the Battery and Not (paying attention) I was changing the Battery when The wires twisted and pulled out of the 2 Boards :cry: . It had been repaired and No Red locktite applied to keep it from coming apart :open_mouth: . I Separated the 2 Boards and soldered new wires in Place, But they were Not flexible and came loose when I reassembled the Head. I now have silicone insulated flexible wire and Hope it will work the next time I try to repair it (if the Boards are good) it May work I Hope? If Not, I will have to find someone else to Modify it for Me because I have been without it Way too Long & I Love that type of Brightness Control that goes from 1-500 with a Simple Twist of the Ring!

I do have an Old Original RRT-01 that I use and Love But it’s wearing out and I Hope the New Model is as Good and Smooth as these Old Ones???

jon_slider;
Thank You for letting Everyone know about the New Model that’s being made. I Appreciate it So Much as this Is the Best and Easiest Ui Light Control Ever made, Hands Down! My All Time Favorite that I Can’t seem to do without, So Thank You for the Heads Up.

89

Actually it was me who did the heads-up but no problem with that :smiley:

Here’s a video from hkequipment on their thread :

90

Am I seeing left hand threads?

91

Hmmmm, pretty smart, that way you won’t accidentally unscrew the head when turning it on.

I remember my old RRT01 head needing to be tightened pretty hard to keep that from happening.

Now if we get LVP and a stronger indent in the off position to prevent accidental activation in the pocket we will have a winner.

My old RRT01 used to turn on in my pocket all the time if I didn’t loosen the head to lock it out.

92

Turning the light (ring) ON is the same direction as unscrewing the head. Turning it Off tightens the head. Strange! :frowning:
Is the original RRT this way?

93

No the Original turned the Opposite way, Right Hand Threads to tighten the Head and the Ring turned to the Right for more Brightness which was the opposite direction iirc?

MascaratumB
Thank You for the Heads Up.
This light looks like it’s a Larger Diameter than the old style. With the Ring turning the other direction I Don’t know if I could get use to that very easily? My Sunwayman Rotery Lights turn to the Right for More Lumens Like the Old style JetBeam. That would take some getting use too. But it still looks Good.

94

The video from HKE is, confusingly, mirrored (at 0:03 you can see the writing on the light is all backwards). This means the threads are normal and the brightness is increased by turning the ring clockwise (when looking at the tail), this is the same as on the V11R.

95

I have an older RRT-01 that I love for its looks and magnetic control ring, as well as super low lumens mode, but I don’t like the beam tint at all. :stuck_out_tongue:

I would also be interested to know if Clemence can offer the RRT-01 with Hi CRI emitter. If cost isn’t too scary, I could go for that.

96

I went to illumn and tried their protected 1200mAh 18350 Keeppower

Unfortunately, they are too long and the RRT-01 will not close…
left protected 1200mAh Keepower 18350, right unprotected 1200mAh Keepower 18350 that I am using in my RRT-01:

However, Im comfortable using unprotected IMR.

.

Clemence has very reasonable prices for his modding services and LEDs.

We may see some progress from Clemence modding an RRT-01 next month. We need to wait and see if the E21a and Optisolis are compatible with the magnetic ring.

here are the issues Im aware of, that need to be assessed:
The light needs to be tested on a light meter to determine IF the magnetic ring remains stable with the E21a and or Optisolis. It IS reasonably stable with the N219b. The drift is less than 10% and not visible to the naked eye.

by stable I mean, that I dont want the lumens to keep drifting once the ring stops turning.

I test that by putting the light on my light meter, and then rotating the whole light, 180 degrees, Im not turning the dial.
you can see the variation is less than 10%, not visible in actual use

this V11r w 3000k N219c was not acceptable, the drift was too large:
ranged from 65 lumens to 124 simply by rotating the light 180 degrees.

The V11r also had a very large continuing change in brightness, after I stopped turning the ring itself.

So Im reporting 2 different factors, first, the change from repositioning the whole light by 180 degrees. Second, the fact that the lumens continue to change significantly, after turning the dial and letting go.

Other issues with the RRT-01 is that there is photographable flicker (constant current ripple), but that is not visible to my naked eye. Most Constant Current lights do some form of this: (including Olights, and on the Olight it is visible)

97

I tried that same test you did with my modded V11R’s jon_slider after watching your video a few weeks ago. How to Mod Sunwayman V11R or V10R Driver For More Current
My test was slightly different though. I used it stuck in my maukka lights calibrated lumen tube. At high I get about a 7 lumen spread turning it 360 degrees.
At a low setting of 24 lumens I get about a 2 lumen spread turning it 720 degrees. I did notice though that if the light had not been on and warm that the lumens did jump up from the initial setting with out touching a thing. From cold at a setting of 89 lumens the lumens jumped up slowly over the next minute or so to about 113 lumens. Once the light had operated for that minute or so it became almost stable. Seems like some of the components are changing values with temp, changing the regulated output.

98

thank you for sharing your test results, very helpful
which LED?
which lumen level is high mode (battery type changes this)? but in either case that is less than 5% change.

thanks for the warmup change info, thats 27, but according to HDS we dont “see” a change of less than 40
at 24 lumens the change is just 8%, Im fine with that

I dont understand your use of 360 and 720 degrees, to me that means one full turn, and two full turns… is that what you meant?:slight_smile:

the change I see is by rotating the light 180 degrees, iow, half way around… first I locate which way it wants to face to get the highest level. I believe these effects are caused by the earth magnetic field interacting with the magnetic ring.

and I believe that some LEDs with lower forward voltage might be the cause of more magnetic sensitivity… not sure

regulation is not always precise. Even HDS fluctuates by 2% on a given setting, it will climb then drop, then climb again, within that range. It is not visible to the naked eye.

what bothers me more with a magnetic light is that the lumen drift continues after I stop turning the dial. And you might notice that if the dial is turned upward, the drift continues upward. And when the dial is turned to a lower level, and released, the drift continues downward. Kind of fun, but not if I can see the change and have to keep repositioning the dial over and over. That was the problem with my 3000k 219c modded V11r, the drift would continue after I stopped touching the dial, and it was a very large amount of drift, that I could see.

With my N219b 4500k 9080 in my RRT-01 the drift is small enough that I cant see it… less than 10% at the 100 lumen range. The drift is a larger percentage at lower levels, approaching 30%, but also a smaller number of lumens.

Very few “regulated” lights, actually produce constant lumen levels, but usually the fluctuation is not visible to the naked eye.

99

Are these tests being done w new version or old version of the light?

100

Yelp, that’s what it means. I turned it completely around twice to make sure. I hold it in my finger tips and spin it while still in the tube.

LH351D 4000k 90cri

Not really a mode but on the upper level of the rotation, seems like around 500 lumens using a trustfire IMR16340 650mah (red-gold) when I tested it. I get 900 lumens at max, full rotation. Makes over a 1000 lumens with a olight 10c 16340.

That’s exactly the behavior I noticed but improved once the light had been on for awhile. I can run it max for a minute or so to warm up the light and try to test it again to make sure. In the first test a few weeks ago the drift became less after playing with it a few minutes but it did drift at first a lot. I’ll check it again to see if that does make a difference.