WTB KuKu eswitch board for V10r Ti Tritium tailcap (ended, sold)

I recently received a SOYCD V10r Ti, with a damaged KuKu switch. The light is working with a plain button and switch from a V11r.

I have the tritium button assembly, but the electronics are damaged and need to be replaced.

I will buy a complete KuKu eSwitch if necessary, but I dont really need the button portion, so I would buy one of the plain button assemblies (no tritiums needed), or I will buy the whole assembly with tritiums, if that is what you have available.

I would also be willing to trade this 6 trit KuKu with no electronics, for a 3 trit KuKu complete with electronics.

the trits on this switch are 3green on top of 3aqua

Photos of the trits won’t help for a repair aproach

oh, you want to repair the board?
sent you photos by PM Lexel :slight_smile:

Maybe you could directly ask Steve Ku ? He might still have some spare parts.


thank you for that suggestion, I did email Steve Ku at that hotmail addy

no reply so far

same for SOYCD

Then maybe he is faster on Facebook ?

The original seller already went down this route. Jon, post the photos of the e-switch board here for both documentation and suggestions on how to fix. Glad this light went to someone who appreciates these rotaries and not just some Ti hoarder :slight_smile:

I have the two missing caps, but not the missing resistor

and it may need a super cap

the board is labeled
NING on the spring side

It’s strange that those caps got ripped off. Does it look like the traces came off the board with it? It looks like the right side trace of the middle cap is a little too smooth like maybe it got ripped off and it’s potentially stuck to the leg of the resistor.

I have 0402 SMD resistors from 300-360kOhm in a few dozen values here if you need some I can send it cheap

The pads are still there it’s not the color ripped off pads would have

but honestly with the tail stand cap on the original undamaged board you could insist on a replacement board from the seller, as this light was not cheap

Do you think it was just a cold solder joint? This whole board looks like it was done with an iron and not reflowed

the parts got sucked into my vacuum pump when I had the brilliant idea to use it to remove some excess solder… instead of using copper braid

I then spent several hours hunting through the disassembled vacuum pump and recovered the two caps, but not the resistor

all this because I used hot air, instead of my reflow hot plate

total newbie mistake… my most expensive failed mod, so far

Ok that answers a lot of questions. Guess what solder sticks to really well? Your iron. Next time wipe your iron clean and just touch the extra solder with a flat part of the tip for just a second. Wipe iron tip clean, rinse and repeat.

I don’t think there is any need for braid or a pump for the jobs we do. I stopped using them after making the same newbie mistakes as you.

Using braid is very useful doing SMD solder

- remove solder between 2 pins that have very low pitch

  • remove the solder from one pad of a resistor or cap to solder the other side and have it flat on the surfac

this thread is just a Want To Buy request

if someone wants to discuss how to fix the switch, how it got damaged, what I did wrong, whether it is hopeless to try and fix it, etc, please use PM

Gimme a shout if you ever sell the broken switch.

I’ve been wanting more of these switch boards for ages. Good luck with fixing it Jon :sushi:

What’s the round thing that looks like a watch battery? It’s not a battery, is it?

Likely a super cap, as you can’t reflow batteries like that, they always got 2 thin post to solder to

switch housing has been sold
I am no longer seeking a replacement circuit board.