I recently received a SOYCD V10r Ti, with a damaged KuKu switch. The light is working with a plain button and switch from a V11r.
I have the tritium button assembly, but the electronics are damaged and need to be replaced.
I will buy a complete KuKu eSwitch if necessary, but I dont really need the button portion, so I would buy one of the plain button assemblies (no tritiums needed), or I will buy the whole assembly with tritiums, if that is what you have available.
I would also be willing to trade this 6 trit KuKu with no electronics, for a 3 trit KuKu complete with electronics.
the trits on this switch are 3green on top of 3aqua
The original seller already went down this route. Jon, post the photos of the e-switch board here for both documentation and suggestions on how to fix. Glad this light went to someone who appreciates these rotaries and not just some Ti hoarder
It’s strange that those caps got ripped off. Does it look like the traces came off the board with it? It looks like the right side trace of the middle cap is a little too smooth like maybe it got ripped off and it’s potentially stuck to the leg of the resistor.
I have 0402 SMD resistors from 300-360kOhm in a few dozen values here if you need some I can send it cheap
The pads are still there it’s not the color ripped off pads would have
but honestly with the tail stand cap on the original undamaged board you could insist on a replacement board from the seller, as this light was not cheap
Ok that answers a lot of questions. Guess what solder sticks to really well? Your iron. Next time wipe your iron clean and just touch the extra solder with a flat part of the tip for just a second. Wipe iron tip clean, rinse and repeat.
I don’t think there is any need for braid or a pump for the jobs we do. I stopped using them after making the same newbie mistakes as you.