If you don’t get an answer soon, I’ll go dig out my SPC from the safe (in my COLD garage) and get it for you tonight or tomorrow. I have it on a C8A (Sofirn’s best single emitter C8 sized light IMO), but the final light will be the old 18650 C8F with a direct drive board (no driver) where the only “switching” happens through the FET. There is too much trouble with remembering memory and modes using the C8A driver (which is again a great driver otherwise). I find my main limit is time when it comes to modding these great little lights
I’ll keep an eye out here, but we’ll get it for you if Lexel is out.
What PCB/direct drive board (no driver) did you use? Looking for maximum amp capability.
Has anyone tested the upper limits of what current this switch can handle? I understand the FET is capable but what about the pcb/whole assembly. Given a Beryllium copper spring could it do 30+ amps reliably?
Also, the L2 tailcap has a fairly large cavity. The whole switch assembly, with included spacer, is around 13mm. Could you piggy back a Omten 1288 on top of this and connect the leads to it?
Thanks for any help,
I think I can get the L2 switch to work with a piggybacked Omten 1288 but I need some help with a parts order. . Its a tight fit. Lexel has a 16mm version which would allow it to recces a little further into the retaining ring. Also, he has empty diode pad for possibility for a super capacitor, which might give me another mm. Perhaps just a thinner CR1216 30mAh vs a 48mAh battery? (Haven’t found a holder for it yet) I have a rudimentary knowledge of electronics but the board seems to have a minimal chip count and I’m not sure what to order. I need to get an order placed for a 6X Ledil Anna for an upcoming 6X Luxeon MZ build. The reason I need a high amp capable switch. Would be nice to also get the parts for the 16mm switch (reduce shipping cost)There is the very soon to be released Convoy C8+ 21700,which might share a deep switch pocket as well. Don’t have a C8 on hand to try to fit this but I’ve seen pictures that it is also fairly deep. Lexel posted this as open source so I feel I can share some pictures of the parts on it. Plus, I need a reason to dust off my Olympus BHM. Even included a dark field image (last image) for the fun of it. I would appreciate any help in ordering parts. Please be specific because my knowledge of such small parts is minimal. And ideally from Mouser because that is one of the few places the carry the Ledil Anna that I need. Is there a possibility of using a higher amp capable FET?
See pics below
He sent me a few (more) FET tail switches here about four weeks ago. I think that is my fourth order in less than three years. Kick-ass little device we hunters LOVE. But he was busy and it took a bit to get them. I figured he was busy and I never worry about getting whatever he sell me.
You have to pull out the clicker on the tail cap, then use a pressure switch (from Sofirn) fitting it to the C8G’s tail cap. I actually haven’t modded a C8G yet, but I should do a pic post with that when I get to it. The pressure switch for a C8A is smaller but I think the C8G tail cap exit hole in the back will still fit it— I hope!
It was easy with the C8Fs in the 18650 (old, first revs) as it was the same threads/diameter on the C8A. You’ll have to just break it all open and then probably file down the WIDE (internal) side of the black plastic wire cover (that covers the back where the clicker was) to fit the FET. The trick is to get it down enough it snugs up with at least a turn of the retaining ring WITH the FET in place. You can also add a crimped wire for strain relief.
I know the above is a bit confusing but when you get it all apart it will make sense (again… I hope!)
These FET tail switches are just that- a switch (so just on/off) that is charged by a small watch battery that fit’s inside it flush with the circular board. Check Lexel’s posts for pics and you’ll understand the layout.
I use lights with drivers WHEN they have memory at high output. What I CAN tell you is BOTH the 21700 C8F and C8G models from Sorfirn ramp to the top of their available output (turbo). IF I leave it at turbo for a few seconds then hit the rear clicky- it turns off. THEN… when you click the light back on- it holds the memory of it’s last setting AND SO it comes on at THE SAME TURBO level- thus full power. The tail switch has no effect on the UI otherwise. You can turn it on in .2 seconds or hours later- it always comes on at TURBO. And as long as you don’t touch the side switch- you are good to go for a hunting rig with full power.
Some will just mount the light to a rail and use the thumb to turn it on- so no FET needed there. But I like my pressure switch under my pistol grip in front (under my knuckles) where a firm grip turns it on and it stays on until the shot gets off. I use velcro on both the top and bottom of the pressure switch to hold it in place (and hold the cord out of the way). Simple rig, works great for me