[WTS] Remote switch tail DD board with FET

Annoyed with the low output with remote pressure switches for flashlight?

I did a board with a MOSFET to eliminate the extra resistance from the external switch
size 16-17mm, for 16mm the battery holder fins need to be cut a bit

If you want just one mode in direct drive you don’t need a driver in the head

I use a MOSFET with a low gate voltage which gets full output down to 1.8V

The MOSFET is powered by a CR1225 Lithium battery with 36mAh should run easily hundreds of hours on

Aliexpress has cheap remote switches, you could dismantle for the cable and pressure switch, or one that fits your flashlight

Availiable just the board or board with switch (Switch, cable and plastic cap)
Board 4€
Board with switch 6€

shipping worldwide priority air mail
2€ for just the board
4.5€ for switch and board
tracking optional

tested them successfully

Looks good Lexel. I’ll check the piggybank tonight. :slight_smile:

I’ll take 3 boards please. Paypal it now :slight_smile:

9 boards build
10 more boards will be build soon
6 remote switches availiable

1. pinkpanda3310 3 boards
2. Tee 1 switch and board
3. MRsDNF 4 boards

Main driver bridged or set to single mode like Bistro or Biscotti

What is your PayPal?
Edit. I’m assuming these need a spring soldered to them for battery contact on the negative end.

Paypal sent for 4 switches. Thanks.

yeah the center pad is for the spring
the remote switch has 2 small solder points near R4

basically the battery holder and R4 needs to be connected to the switch

Seems like quite an innovation there, Lexel.

You defiantly are a guru of flashlights!

Got these switches today thanks. Now what lights to build to use them in? :slight_smile:

Hmmm… Let me guess? Hunting thrower lights of course :slight_smile: :+1:

I already got one from Lexel, modd it with my rat tail switch and confirmed that it does not have any lux drop in single 18650 cell fet driver combination.

Lexel is very smart guy :slight_smile:

No argument from me. A real asset to BLF. :beer:

Lexel sent me a pair of these FET “switch” boards for my Pig Gun C-8 light mod- I got them today! (thanks Lexel!) The C8 is finally in LA (from Hong Kong) according to Kaidomain’s tracking email (which didn’t work for about a week… I was worried for a bit there) :laughing:

Being a newbie, I am figuring out things reading up on stuff around the site this last week and I saw a post today on a 3 led kit (sold at AliExpress) from a few months back I might get into now (I THINK it fit the C8?) Lexel explained he was also working on a project here co-designing a driver that would work best for a hunting rig like mine (one mode- off and on). Wondering if this driver (or one like it) could be used with the 3 LED kit for say somewhere around 4k lumen (from one 18650)?

Learning every time I come here. :student:

There is a C8F Sofirn sells as host or full light with triple XPL MCPCB and reflector

Lexel sent me a pair of these nice stuff too… I just made some dirty hack for one of my Convoy C8 (factory tailcap + cheap remote switch from china + this nice FET switch), it works like a charm :slight_smile: absolutely no light loss, in fact with this FET remote I measured a little bit better values than with the factory tailcap!

Nice work Lexel and thank you again!

ps.: I will recommend it to my hunter friends :wink:

I’d like 1 board with switch please. Looks great! (pm sent)

What happens when one actually presses the switch? Momentary on or constant on?

Have you thought about making a version with clicky switch to replace normal switches in high-current lights?

The build is 1:1 as you switch the FETs gate it is conductive

The main thing besides a normal clicky is that most lights tail caps wont allow the added thickness of the battery holder with the switch above it to twist in the retaining ring

I have two boards and have built/tested one of them. Constant on.

I did have to file down the open end of the black plastic insert (that the wire goes through) so the board would be deep enough to allow the retaining ring/screw to crank down on the board properly. I also used some shrink tubing at the wire’s connecting end to the board (and a 16g small wire crimp around it) for strain relief. When I build #2 up I’ll take some pics and post here.

Sent in request for one complete setup.

I’ll plan on taking some photos as well.


So I’m finally getting around to look at this closely, to assemble it with a 6P style of torch.

Which solder points do I use? From Lexel’s photo above, it looks like one of the contacts is right on top of a resistor.