Looks interesting, a soda can style 15,000 lumens claimed 100 meter rated dive light from Wurkkos with a handle. I could not find a BLF review of it but it looks like a interesting powerful light with a very simple user interface and 100 degree beam angle, so definitely a flood light. Listed as having only 3 light levels, accessed with a magnetic control ring. No strobe, SOS or other pulsed modes and no real low mode as minimum Lumens claimed is 1000 and max is 15,000 with 5000 in the middle. Sounds like a decent foul weather light but not a tactical one due to the lack of strobe or other pulsed outputs, but how many users actually use them? Currently under $100 on Amazon with a coupon listed. Offered in 5000K and 6000K versions. The USB port is under the tail cap, similar to some Acebeam lights, so should be well protected compared to just a rubber cover.
Not much need for moonlight or even low, underwater. Can’t see needing strobe to fend off a shark or anything, either.
You just need a reliable way to get usable light underwater. The simpler the UI, the better.
I always recommend diving lights as “hurricane lights”, ie, a simple weatherproof emergency light in case of hurricanes, tornadoes, floods, etc. Can’t beat 'em.
The magnetic ring UI has long been a favorite of mine as versatile but usually simple. I prefer the continuously variable beam versions but can accept the ones with stepped control. Over the years I think that I have picked up close to 8 or so variations from multiple makers but they have never been particularly common. I currently have ones from Fenix (2), Nitecore (2), Jetbeam (3) and a real oldie from Niteye. The Niteye is a hefty 4 reflector soda can light similar layout to the the Nitecore TM28 with the 4 reflectors separate and in a square.
I bought the DL07 because it had all the options of flood, throw, red and UV. But all of that was completely unnecessary underwater. This looks like it would do a whole lot better
Does this light have any kind of lock? It feels like the rotary switch may get inadvertently turned in transport and the usual cap manoeuvre may not work here.
That is listed as a problem by one Amazon reviewer but my solution on all lights of this basic design is to loosen the battery compartment by enough so that the light will not turn on, usually loosening by 1/2 turn or less is adequate. This works on my dozen or so lights of this soda can design I have accumulated in 10 years or so as most do not have any other form of lockout.
Oh, so for this light one can disconnect the batteries by unscrewing the head thread? I was thinking that the butt cap probably wouldn’t work in this case.
For all the soda can lights I have that take individual batteries the batteries load from the front of the battery compartment once it is unscrewed from the light head. If you look at all the photos of the DL06 light at the top of the Amazon listing I provided a link to, the butt cap when unscrewed just reveals the USB C charging port and a circuit board. The Nitecore TM26 and TM28 do have electronic lockouts and the Acebeam X50 and X75 have mechanical lockouts which prevent depressing the operating switches at all when engaged. Of the less expensive lights the Sofirn Q8 Plus with Anduril 2 user interface does also have an electronic lockout. The partial unscrewing of the battery compartment though is very sure and almost idiot proof as well as a cheap and low tech lockout method. The older lights have non removable battery compartment butt caps or just reveal a circuit board the battery compartment contact springs mount to.
This arrived yesterday and I am impressed so far. The powerful USB charged light with a true KISS user interface.
A very powerful flashlight with a very simple and easy to use user interface. 3 modes, low, medium and high selected by a rotating ring. Even the low, listed as 1000 lumens, is powerful enough for 90%+ of normal flashlight uses as it is far brighter than a classic 4 or 5 D cell Maglite of years ago and has a claimed run time of over 6 hours with the included batteries on the low setting. The charging port is hidden under the aluminum tail cap so is much better protected than the tethered rubber caps on most USB chargeable flashlights. If you need more run time then get a spare set of batteries or two as this light uses individual replaceable 21700 batteries rather than a proprietary battery pack. Keep a spare set of charged batteries and you have over 12 hours of light available.
Being a dive light rated for 100 meters water resistance this should make a excellent emergency light when the weather turns against you. It should ignore rain or inadvertent submersion and the quite wide flood beam reveals the terrain in front of you much better than a very narrow tunnel type beam in my opinion.
The light appears to be quite solidly constructed and is actually a couple of ounces heavier than a Acebeam X50 2.0 that I have compared it to. At maximum light output both are overkill for most users and uses but that also means long run times at reduced brightness levels.
In the KISS philosophy of this light there is no lockout provision other than loosening the battery housing a bit. On mine this rotation for lockout is minimal, less than 1/8 turn loosening rotation breaks the electrical connection. I would note that the rotating ring control does require a bit more rotational force than some other samples of this style light I have and the beam intensity settings are well detented.
Charging is slow as even hooked to a 100 watt rated USB C charger and cable the maximum charge rate I saw was about 15 watts, 5 volts at close to 3 amps. This definitely does not take advantage of the charging capability of the USB C design. A fully depleted battery set will take quite a while to recharge at this rate.
