Wurkkos DL70 13000lm diving light faulty kit $25

I’ve bought two extra kits. The price is to nice :person_facepalming:

Robert

Sold out. They sold about 50 faulty kits in one week! I grabbed 3.

Robert

I’ve noticed several issues in the design:

  • The reflector sits on top of the four centering rings (which is fine by itself, but only if the rest of the design matches it).
  • The two screws that hold the MCPCB to the reflector were tightened too much and bent the MCPCB. The only purpose of the screws is to keep the sandwich of MCPCB, centering rings and reflector together during assembly. A spacer between MCPCB and reflector might help.
  • These two screws of the reflector (4.2 mm diameter) do not fit into the two pockets of the head (4.0 mm)! The MCPCB will never make good contact with the head!
  • The center screw was loose, about 2 mm left.
  • Thermal compound was barely touching the surfaces.

To fix these issues:

  • First I had to disassemble everything. Driver was easy to remove with snap ring pliers, bezel took some effort (and now I’ve got some blisters on my hands).
  • Then I removed the old thermal compound and cleaned everything with IPA.
  • Next I drilled to two pockets to 4.5 mm, deburred them and the holes for the wires as well.
  • Loosened the two screws on the reflector.
  • Added (probably too much…) thermal paste, evenly spread over the MCPCB (usually I prefer a single drop, but I’m not sure if it would distribute good enough because the MCPCB can’t be moved/rotated).
  • Put everything back together.

Not the head heats up quickly, which should be a good sign. Haven’t glued the driver back in, just held by the battery tube.

7 pieces left last

Recieved mine in 4 days from ordering. Only tightened the center screw below the glued in driver borad, and started working. Is it still necesary to take it apart completelly?

I order one, price is very good.

Hi, would you be able to write a procedure to fix it? Thank you
Igor

I got one today and already fixed.

I opened bezel by using strong double sided tape on bezel and head so I can get some grip (gluing my hands to head and bezel essentially) and opened without problem.

Driver was really glued in so it took me long time and heating to get it out. I was sure I am going to break it, but it survived.

Shelf needs to be drilled for screw heads. Head is 4.2mm and hole is 4mm.
I used 5mm drill bit to do it as one is slightly offset and drilling 4.5mm didn’t solve problem.

Flashlight is working and hot on turbo in second so everything good :slight_smile:

It arrived. Smaller than I expected (had Convoy L6 size in mind), but that’s a good thing. Bezel seems to be very glued, trying with heat later on.

A word of caution concerning batteries. Mine came at 3.6 and 3.9 volt, way too big different for unprotected batteries in series. Make sure to charge first so they’re as equal as possible!

My bezel had no glue, only o-ring holding it tight.

Entirely possible, I just had a quick go at it. Daytime job right now, so besides a quick check I had to put it aside for now. And I’ll probably turn it on briefly once it’s dark to see what the beam looks like, before taking it apart.

Hello everyone, this is my first post, and i made an account exclusively to ask if someone purchased largerr quantities and would be willing to sell me one kit or even just a flashlight, but i missed this amazing opportunity.
wurkkos said this was their only malfunctioning batch in the last 2 years and there are no extra DL70s. Unfortunate for me but great for them

I may have one if my friend doesn’t take it, he still dind’t confirm he wants it.
I still need to receive second one I ordered and then if available I can message you.

Ok, managed to get the bezel off with heating and latex gloves. But blister on my hand from the force required, that’s a first… And I don’t see any glue, it’s just REALLY TIGHT.

Next up is the driver. So far no luck with heating and pliers. Luckily I can read German and hopped over to TLF to get fresh inspiration. Enjoyable little project as it poses some challenges and requires trying out some new techniques.

Mine still didn’t arrive :frowning:

Finally managed to get the damned driver out. After multiple attempts heating up to 80 degrees C and applying significant pulling force (was afraid it would break in half). Some notes: initially tried pulling with pliers. No effect, just damage to the PCB. Then multiple attempts with metal wire and hook, but the hook kept bending when applying more force. Scraping around the edges didn’t really have an effect, virtually no space to get a blade in between. Using a screwdriver pushing from the side didn’t do anything either. Eventually pulling a screw worked and the pcb snapped out almost ripping the wires. It even ripped off some of the anodisation :open_mouth:

Some pictures for your enjoyment:


As mentioned by others already, the screws are too big / holes too small. This causes the mcpcb to float in the air. Leaving them out is not an option, the mcpcb turns when assembling and will likely damage the wires otherwise. I’ll probably end up drilling the holes, since tiny screws are impossible to get around here (basically mail order only and thus long waiting time).

Before

After

In what format are the leds connected? 2s2p, 4s, or 4p? Thank you!

MCPCB says 2s2p. Haven’t measured to verify.