Ditto. Came in 20min ago. First priority is restraining myself while waiting for the dark 
It came today. :person_facepalming:
Anyways⌠I wanted to flex how I managed to unscrew it with my hands alone but it didnât work. Didnât move one bit. I had to Use rubber coated gloves. I thought that was the hard part. I didnât read Verodinâs post.
First I tried to get the reflector out from the bezel side. Thankfully I stopped and didnât damage the threads.
I couldnât get the driver out with the pliers. I tried to pry it lightly to break the glue but it didnât work. I heated it up to 180°C. Didnât help. I soaked it with IPA and maybe that helped. I ended up damaging the driver. I donât know if solder mask will fix this.
BTW, the switch is terrible. I thought it was defective. No feedback at all. It feels broken. The flashlight is smaller than I thought considering itâs double 26650. The LEDs are blue/purple even during daylight.
My TS21 6500k SST-20 feels like itâs a step above in quality and the beam is warmer.
Just clean it up. As long as thereâs a connection from the filled area in the middle to the two vias and no connection between the two areas youâre fine.
Itâs a magnetic switch. It has almost no moving parts except the spring and is 100% waterproof. A snapping action might improve the feel, but I never missed it.
Yes, itâs on the higher CCT side, but I wouldnât call it blue/purple. Have you followed all steps so that the MCPCB makes good contact to the body? âAngry blueâ is a clear indicator that the LEDs are overheating.
Thereâs no continuity but itâs a mess. I thought I would sell it if I didnât like it but now it would make me look like a scammer lol
I remembered that but itâs still awkward. If you canât feel it in above I donât want to know how it would feel underwater.
My other flashlight with the same LEDs is not so blue. I didnât keep it on for long and the battery was at 3.7V so Iâm not sure about overheating. I saw that some people had a PCB that had maybe 20% of the copper backing covered by thermal paste and mine made full contact.
I remember watching reviews about it and I donât remember they had thermal issues. Is this only a problem with this batch?
I enlarged the holes on the head so the screw heads would sink in and the LED PCB would make a better connection with the flashlight head.
Do you think that will be enough?
The PCB is still bent slightly. If I go for the drill and tap solution I might mess it up.
This could make a nice pool light.
Should be fine. There are no components there, just the power planes. They can take a beating. Just make sure there are no shorts.
It seems to be constructed in such a way that the reflector presses the mcpcb down (I could see thermal paste oozing out at the wires while tightening the bezel). As long as those screws have somewhere to go, the mcpcb should make good enough contact.
Iâm scared of tightening down the long screw that holds the reflector because it seems like it would be easy to strip.
Weâll see⌠I have to buy the thermal paste so itâs on hold.
Thanks for the help everyone.
Just went outside for a test and it seems to work fine now. Getâs toasty and it puts out a wall of light 
Thanks Wurkkos for offering this faulty batch, it was a few âinterestingâ hours well spend
I didnât put back the long screw from the drivers side. Tightening the bezel applies much more downward pressure. I measured my leds with Opple and they were ~6000K.
Got second one and there was no contact at all between pcb and shelfâŚ
All fixed now and working 
Thank you, but i have succesfully ordered one kit last night, i suppose someones order was unsuccesful or cancelled and i managed to grab a kit. Hopfully your friend enjoys the flashlight.
Sve najbolje, pozdrav iz Hrvatske
Good luck with your new flashlight 
If you need help fixing it, feel free to contact me
I donât think this is a buck driver. Seems like FET driver to me.
Exactly, opened mine too, it is a simple driver, driving 2parallel x 2series of leds, directly from the battery. No buck-boost circuit, possibly just PWM.
Hello, i have maybe fixed it but i have no idea how quickly it should heat up. Enlarged the holes on the shelf so the screw heads fit nicely, but i think there was a tiny gap between the reflector and the pcb. How fast should it heat up on turbo? It is difficult to express but i would say 10 seconds until uncomfortable. I am a newb this is my first flashlight
If it heats up body really fast then problem should be fixed. Without fixing it would heat up really slow as no contact between led board and body.
Mine heats up really quick on turbo after fix. I would say 15s and heat is noticable.
The gap is normal. Contact is made only via the centering rings.