You could ask @thefreeman if he is interested in a collaboration on such matters - he made an Anduril driver for Emisar with outstanding performance recently, which runs off AA and 14500, has RGB aux and very high efficiency.
Probably easier to have him help than developing the same thing from scratch.
@Wurkkos_Terry please please please try working with @thefreeman or @loneoceans The world needs an efficient compact Andúril head torch. The DW4 is great but unwieldy.
Thanks Terry for taking the time to post all of the replies with lots of good information. I appreciate your efforts on our behalf. Once everything is sorted I think I will need to pick up the improved/fixed model.
It was a good idea to get some of these out there for people to use and help sort out the good and the bad.
Switch is good, easy to use and the clicks are easy to feel.
USB-C port has a good seal and does not get in the way
Tint was decent, didn’t seem greenish, though not noticeably rosy either.
High quality packaging
Now the things I am not such a fan of:
No flashing pads, so the firmware issue cannot be fixed easily, or the light updated
Switch ring and bezel are press-fit, not easily removable for modding
Exposed plastic optic, mine already got a small scratch
The tube cannot be reversed easily, so that the clip attaches near the tailcap.
– Doing this makes the engraved battery look backwards
Unfortunately, it has a critical problem: the light has stopped lighting the primary emitters.
Initially it was sometimes not responsive and took a few seconds after being clicked. Seems to be firmware-related.
This happened after approximately 20 minutes of unboxing.
Recommendations for the production model:
Fix the firmware issue (old firmware), use the latest TS10-v2 build
Add flashing pads to the visible side of the driver
Make the bezel and switch threaded, with grooves for a tool. Please no threadlocker either.
Move the location of the engraved battery symbol to the tailcap.
Add a chamfer to both sides of the tube, so it can be reversed without clearance issues.
Add a glass lens between the bezel and optic, to protect from scratches
Use wires going through the shelf of the light, like a normal TS10. It is a lot easier to disassemble for modding/repair than this T-connected design.
Update:
Out of frustration, while messing with the light to see if I could get it to work again, I banged it against my hand and it turned on.
Now I am quite sure that the problem is not in firmware, but hardware. I had a similar problem with a TS21, where banging it on my hand would trigger strobe, and I then found that it had a bad solder joint in the T of the boards.
@Wurkkos_Terry How would you recommend me disassemble it for diagnosing the source of the problem?
Update 2:
Unsuccessfully tried to disassemble the light, the T connection between the driver and MCPCB is very difficult to desolder. During this, the light got hot enough to apparently reflow some joints, as the problem is gone after I reconnected the MCPCB to the driver and allowed it to cool down.