Yeh, that’s what I was saying. It ain’t a screamer, ain’t meant to be one, so it’s not like it’d melt the LEDs off the board if not lacerated beyond recognition with do-nothing cuts’n’grooves.
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I just want it to work as intended…small form factor headlamp in a TS10 type format with a suitable headband. My main concern is the integrity of the Lattice Power CSP emitters. The original TS10 LED’s in 4000K/6000K were phenomenal for both tint and CRI (IMHO). To lose that for an inferior bin of emitters would be catastrophic to the whole point. If the latest batch of 4000K (TS10 Ti) is the new norm, I would be disappointed. I like and appreciate the design elements Wurkkos has projected for the end product, and I pray they can source and integrate an emitter bin reel that equals its best production runs of the rightfully venerated TS10…such a fantastic light, and a spectacular emitter for high CRI applications (again IMHO).
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Switch on the side is essential
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I vote for A1. The head design complements the body nicely.
I’m curious about the effectiveness of the heat fins. How much of an impact does it have on the highest sustained output? I have some reservations that it may not make a substantial difference.
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I vote for A, it continues the design of the ts10 the best
I agree and I’m glad to see they reversed the pocket clip orientation.
Curious as to how you envision this. If the light is head mounted, would not “switch on the side” be oriented on either head end or tailcap?
You are right to be skeptical. I found an online calculator for heat dissipation for different fin configurations.
Just taking some guesses at the fin dimensions (I think I was generous by using a 0.1 inch depth and thickness. BTW the machined fins would be crescents, reducing the area even more) and fin base temp versus room temp (160F/70F), It looks like the 5 fins can dissipate 0.046 watts using the numbers I gave it. (obviously we would need the real dimensions for real numbers). Now I didn’t calculate what the smooth surface (no machined “fins”) would dissipate, but it has to be something greater than zero. So we will have to subtract that from the 0.046 watt number. Meaning the difference with machine “fins” will be inconsequential.
Most flashlight fins are for decoration (people like them, so they sell) and not very effective at increasing heat dissipation. Are they better than nothing, sure, but only marginally so. Probably (in most cases) not worth the extra cost of machining complexity and material waste.
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Great info, and makes total sense in a platform this small. I’d think heat management in these mini lights would be chasing a ghost. If people were honest, the goal would be to rely on the limits imposed by deliberate regulation through Anduril2, or manufactured mode limitations of a pre-programmed regulated driver.
No, on the side. Like a Skilhunt or convoy headlamp
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If you plan AUX LEDs please make it real RGB not disco one 
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i’m so sad to see you dropped the usb charging on the HD10, i will definitely not be buying it without it since i already hate unscrewing and screwing back the head of the TS10 every single day for recharging as it’s my daily and when i’m out of my house for just 2+ days i have to either carry the external charger with me instead of charging it with my phone charger or i have to switch to some other flashlight i don’t like that much and also the price point and practicality of the TS10 makes me wanna buy it to every friend and family member on Christmas and birthday but again the lack of convenient usb charging absolutely trashes that idea since none of them are enthusiasts that would wanna externally recharge it… it almost makes it seem that most enthusiasts here calling for AA compatibility don’t even actually use your flashlights as EDC because i don’t know a single practical person who would like to carry extra AAs in his pocket instead of a usb cable from his phone and a power bank which they carry already anyway
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Welcome to BLF!
They said they’re going to provide a battery with built in USB C, but those are worthless imo. Makes the already-anemic battery even worse in capacity, and you still have to pull the battery out every time you want to charge (I can just connect it to my Olight UC at that point)
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Wellp, I was just thinking… (dangerous, I know)
What might be best and appease most people with strong opinions might be a built-in charger but of course making it NOT a dual-fuel light. And a weatherproof charging port with… no cover? Covers are mostly crappy and pop out and even pull off when you just look wrong at 'em, and the anchor point is more real-estate on the head that needs to be taken into account.
I’m not a fan of an exposed port collecting pocket-lint and other filth, but people are singing their praises at how phones, etc., have 'em without issue. Not like people wear their phones on their heads, at least not that I’ve seen, but they still probably stick 'em in a pocket, so…
And of course make sure that the charger doesn’t TOUCH a cell that’s below, say 2V, because you know some smoothbrain monkey will stick an alkaleak in there and try charging it.
Doesn’t stop someone from trying to charge a LFP cell, but hey, you try making something idiot-proof, and they just come up with better idiots.
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Yep, on all counts.
Thanks for warm welcome!
am i so obviously new here? 
and yeah i have one of those usb-c batteries from acebeam but that solves just half the issue at cost of lower capacity and overly sensitive overcurrent trigger…
i absolutely loved the first sketch of HD10 with button under the usb cover… such an efficient unique design! shame they listened to those AA guys! killed a big part of their potential sales immediately since AA compatibility is just a preference of few enthusiasts but usb recharging is absolutely vital for buyers on much bigger mainstream market…
i’m sure those AA guys would buy it anyway if it had usb but most noobs wont bother with something they have to de- and re-assemble just to recharge it every other day like halogen flashlight from 80’s
and the water resistance problems i see people talk about with rubber flaps… i don’t know if i’m the one fortunate with them but i’ve never had a single issue with them opening by themselves, nor even losing tightness over time… seems more like a theoretical paranoia to me
edit: …maybe it differs between brands but sofirn flaps are very robust
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Your first post tells folks that it’s your first one and to welcome you
The forum says you’re new.
I can see argument for lower priced lights to be gifted to people who don’t even recharge stuff, the light would run on AA all its life, the recipients would never know it can also run on Li-ion.
You’re on Budgetlightforum, so you’re also an enthusiast 
It’ll probably depend on specific lights rather than brands. Sofirn LT1 is one of the flaps that’s failed on me, came clean off the light so my lantern is no longer waterproof (or dust proof).
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oh and it doesn’t show that to me so i can be genuinely surprised and happy from it lol, thanks a lot
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I hope you have fun here, ravasmathias!
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