If at least one of them is an e-switch (and I bet that’s the case with the “mode switch”), then it could be used to control Anduril, and the other one ignored (or used as a hard turn-off, “cut all the power” switch).
And if both are e-switches, then even better: Anduril could be controlled by both of them with very little code change, or I could try and implement something really nifty UI-wise (eg, one switch controls some features while the other control others, or one of them is used to complement the other during settings, etc). Lots of fun in the wings!
Your love for Anduril makes me suspect that your toaster and kettle already have it installed.
Seriously though, the TD04 looks like the SC28 but with a longer head and an electronic mode switch, the tail switch is definitely mechanical. I don’t have any information about the driver, we’ll have to wait until someone opens it up.
Have a nice one.
Yeah, I It interests me as well.
The TD03 looks like a very interesting option, especially at this price point. It’s like a nicely upgraded Aplos T02. I just hope the driver is the same or equally good.
If my toaster and kettle had any LEDs on them, I would surely have andurilified them by now
Seriously though, the TD03 […] electronic mode switch, the tail switch is definitely mechanical.
I agree this is the most probable hypothesis. AFAICS would work great with Anduril using the electronic mode switch with the mechanical tail switch at the “on” position. And perhaps we can even embed a mechanical switch UI to take over when the user operates the tail switch exclusively – if the TD03 has an at1616 MCU and easily accessible flashing pads, I will surely buy one at least to experiment with this.
I suspect it should be 3.0 V - 4.2 V, especially since reverse polarity protection and ART are present, but I’m not entirely sure.
I’ve purchased one TD03, and it should be on its way. On the Wurkoss website, they are priced at $25 and $27 after coupon activation.
Is there anyone at Wurkkos who can explain the UI design thought process? I saw a video on the Amazon product page and it looks like strobe always gets in the way. I guess this is a light designed for strobe lovers.
There are some people who actually like quick access to strobe, for example ‘tacticool’ types and light painting photographers. Unfortunately for light painting photographers most flashlights now use horrid alternating frequency strobes instead of lovely constant frequency strobes.
Some manufacturers market alternating frequency strobes as being able to confuse attackers, but I would actually debate this as I find that faster constant frequency strobes (around 20Hz) are more annoying. Any strobe isn’t going to deter anyone anyway, and is best used as a warning. Alternating frequency strobes are probably better for use with traffic wands where you want the light to warn but not annoy. Many manufacturers don’t market which strobe type they use, so it is not like Mr Tacticool will purchase a light from these manufacturers because of the strobe frequency anyway. For light painting photographers, we require constant frequency strobes to create consistent light trails, but we are a minority in the market, however it is something that is marketable.
One suggestion, Wurkkos should consider using the AT1616 and add easily-accessible flashing pads to all your lights that have at least one e-switch, because:
The AT1616 is only $0.05 more expensive than the cheapest MCU around (the Sonix);
And easily-accessible flashing pads cost nothing as they are made along with the driver PCB
That way you would add a lot of value to all your flashlights for all of us enthusiasts. I would have no problem paying more for such a light.
Take note, @Wurkkos_Terry, if the light came with an AT1616 MCU and easily accessible flashing pads, we would port Anduril to it and then people woud be able to configure it exactly the way they want, without any extra work nor cost for Wurkkos (hint, hint! )