Didn’t see anyone comment yet on this… how far off from a Carclo 105 series is this mcpcb spacing?
Ohh, forgot - can't check now - will do.
Hi Tom_E
IP5310 have high quiescent current about 100 uA. From datasheet on page 7:
How do you prevent it from falling down the big hole in the middle of the shelf?
I just center in the available area. Triples with a center hole I would do with a line in a circle, centered to the area to cover.
I usually make the head of the light hot with a bodyshop air heater,the one used to mold plastic bumper in shape.Doing this the glue will be a little less strong,and you can pull the drive off easier.
Yep, you're right! I didn't notice it, but it perfectly explains what I measured. It adds 4-5 times the amount of drain. The LED driver circuit itself is usually about 20-30 uA, and I measured 116 uA.
Hello guys,
Wurkkos TS21 champagne need reviewer in Amazon.com,Are you interested in it?PM private message.
It's not even close -105's are 20 mm in diameter, while this TS21 optic is 23 mm in diameter. The legs don't even come close to aligning with the PCMCB holes. There's a very thin glass lens over the optic, about 1.2 mm thick, and a thin black o-ring in between. I'm not sure if they are glued or stuck together, but I'd rather not try to pull them apart. I'm not aware of a standard 23 mm size for the triple tir optics.
I just discovered another bug in the TS21. My voltage check sometimes is way off.
Have you calibrated it? If that didn’t set it right, I think I’d do a reset and then recalibrate both temp and voltage and see how it goes from there. Considering the relative accuracy of both most meters and the chip on the driver, if it’s off by a tenth I wouldn’t worry about it.
It is correct most of the time. I’ve noticed this twice now. Yesterday when the light arrived it flashed out 3.5 when the battery was actually 3.9. After the first charge it was close to the measured voltage and I adjusted it. Today after another charge and about a 10 minute walk it flashed out 3.5 again. I knew it could not be that low yet so I measured it again, 4volts. Put the battery back in and it flashed out 4 volts. Temperature was right on out of the box. I raised the max temp to 55. Set the ceiling to 150. Rather not reset everything again. Calibration in Anduril 2 is not as easy as Anduril 1. Why was that changed?
On my SC31 pro it will do that after running on high or turbo. By the second flash it is correct again. Have been told that’s normal voltage drop. Can’t confirm that as by the time the battery is pulled the voltage is high again. Will test again tonight and see if it does it and if it climbs right up on subsequent flashes. That is the part I am not sure of. It may flash 3.5 once and then 3.9 or 4 or wherever the battery is actually at.
I’ve heard of that happening before but it was a smaller difference. Normal battery rebound.
Mine shows +0.1V. It shows 4.2V when the battery is at 4.1V, 4.0V when it’s 3.9V and so on. I didn’t even bother correcting it.
Mine fell apart on it’s own. I think the glass is held only by the grease/oil on the O-ring because I saw the residue on the glass but it wasn’t glue.
I had the same concern because I thought that the green LED looked ugly and I was relieved when I saw that it’s orange. When I run it on 18340 I get a blue and purple light. I’ve read it’s because the controller thinks it’s acting as a powerbank because of the high discharge so it turns on the powerbank lighting mode.
Regarding the charging, they did advertise it as fast charge so at least they’re not lying 
Tom, is the driver loose after you punched it out? Is there a rattle because it’s not glued anymore? I assume the pressure of the battery would solve that once it’s screwed tight.
Would this light benefit from a spring bypass?
I think my spring isn’t fully pressed in because I get a clicking noise when I use the magnet. It’s as if the magnet is not fully pressed against the tail cap so when it comes in contact with metal it pulls itself flush with the tail cup.
I removed the bezel on mine with a battery probe prom a multimeter by laying it flat on the grooves. A bamboo chopstick works well too. More torque and less pressure on the threads.
I removed the white backing sticker. It looks cool but now I wish it had aux lights. Maybe I can rewire the switch lights 
I have the feeling that my spot was almost perfect before and now it’s uneven. It’s hard to tell without pointing it at the ceiling and rotating the flashlight. It’s barely noticeable but now it bugs me because I don’t know if I caused it or I just didn’t notice it before.
The white backing sticker doesn’t affect the beam as far as I can tell.
Looks very cool! Yeah rewiring the switch-LED would be very nice, maybe it’s even possible to add a RGB LED if the microcontroller still has some free prins?
And about that spot/beam, mine also has a slight “flower pattern”, which seems to be mostly because of the bezel I think…
It looks cool but you have to look down that center hole to see it, even on high. And on high the switch illuminates the sounding area as you can se on the picture lol.
At close distances the outer spill is a triangle that disappears at a foot or so. I was talking about the hotspot. It seems even until you rotate the flashlight back and forth. Totally not noticable in everyday use but now it bugs me because I don’t know if I caused it or if it was there before lol.
Gave all the contact points a good cleaning. The battery voltage jumped up a notch. I noticed the negative end of my battery has some deep grooves cut into it. the spring does not seem rough. Maybe they are from the factory? Anyone else’s have these?
Oh boy. Mind posting a picture? I hope that doesn’t mean they supplied a second-life cell.