Good idea: I measured it at 10 meters and got a reading of 73k cd. Took more readings until I got 3 concurrent readings at 82kcd. Better than my dedomed STL-V2!
Also to the: there is some sort of retaining ring which goes around the dome. I have no idea as to what it does, but if you put a knife in one of the 4 corners of the ring, and very slowly and gently pry the dome off, you’ll see an air bubble, and then it’ll just pop off. It’s very similar to pulling a screen protector off a screen.
I went outside and took some beamshots. After they’re uploaded I’ll post them here.
Also note that when pulling off the SST-90 dome it comes off extremely clean. As in, the surface left behind is so damn smooth, more so than a baby’s bottom.
EDIT: Here are the pictures, 7G5V2 first, then X6 second:
You should try the Input format (under the text box) -> advanced editor-> insert/edit image -> advanced tab. You can edit the html manually for mouseover (just quote any post with them and follow the formatting), but the graphical UI editor is easier to use.
You may need to include the default image on the first tab page. The way I think the javascript works is that it overwrites the "mousein" pic name on mouse-over, and flips to the "mouseout" pic when you move the mouse away. Kinda primitive but so's most of the web.
So basically, put mouse-out pic (jpg url) in the first tab image url box AND the mouse-out box, then mouse-in pic in the mouse-in box:
If you right click on the image you posted yourself, there should be some kind of option to copy the image (not link) location or url. Though I’m a bit curious how you posted them in the first place without this. :bigsmile:
Okay I got it! Thanks agenthex. I just copied the image URL from the pictures I posted. It looks like I couldn't access the image url directly from flickr, but only after I posted them here.
Mouse out is 7G5V2, mouse over is X6. Also note that before the dedome the 7G5V2 had more throw than the X6, but a bit more than half the total output. Now the X6 has almost double the throw with similar output.
Ok. The flikr site also allow right-click (so you can get the jpg directly) when you select a resolution from the main (their own, not the browser’s) right click menu.
The jpg url is also in the stuff you pasted in. Starts with http:// and ends with .jpg.
ok… after 8 pages to me it looks that the best method is heat the LED with high current or with a phon.
than with a razorblade cut at 3,something millimiters, than use a dremel to polish the surface of the dome that is still over the led.
right?
XR-Es come off rather easily as I’ve accidentally dedomed a couple in the past. Jut pop it off with your fingernail. If it resists just push/pick harder.
So since it’s a different material, do you know if you still get double the kCd value if you de-dome it? There isn’t anything special in it that blocks UV or anything like that is there?
Hey, bud! I didn't notice it was you when I first replied. Good to see you back!
Nah, nothing special other than focusing purposes. I wouldn't recommend doing it unless you want an LED laser. I hear it makes a pencil point beam with almost zero spill.
This UltraOk light is worthless anyway so I didn’t care if I broke it. After I tore off the lens, I had to shim the reflector about 1/16 inch further out than it was before.
Yeah, it’s definitely a laser beam now. It’s more collimated than my aspheric 501A.
Too bad I didn’t take before and after measurements LoL
I think the magic temperature for de-doming XMLs is around 80°C. Too hot and the dome becomes fragile, too cold the you risk taking phosphor with the dome.
I have de-domed 3 XMLs on C8 pills which I have heated (by running them) until they were too hot to hold…. the result: 3 flawlessly de-domed LEDs.
I have now de-domed around 8 XMLs: the 3 which I did at 70-80°C came off very easily. 2 I tried de-doming at a much lower temperature and phosphor came with the dome. The other ones I tried at around 120°C (frypan) and found the dome broke into pieces very easily, if you get the temperature right the whole dome comes off in one piece.
I will be keeping a C8 pill (plus 3A+ driver) handy from now on for when I want to de-dome XMLs as I am very confident I could get at least an 80% success rate using this method.
