Hi, i’m writing this post in order to know what’s the name of the main chip of the board of the flashlight I bought (i don’t even know what’s the name of that :D).
The problem with this lamp is that it has 3 modes (low, med, high + off), and so everytime i need to switch from the lowest to highest mode to use it…
i’d like to change the firmware (is it possible??) of the main chip in order to have a simple on-off diving flashlight.
link of flashlight: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B09GLX17TS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
image: WhatsApp Image 2021-12-24 at 19.21.34.jpeg - Google Drive
Welcome to BLF.
This board is the Driver usually it has a microprocessor asls called MCU which running the FW.
Writing a FW is not so simple since it includes many features such as low battery warning and protection, thermal management energy saving and more…
Unless someone already written a FW for this driver your best option is to find an alternative driver that fits to the light and have a moods program option.
Since it is a single cell light with a XHP 70 LED, you need a buck driver that increase the voltage to the LED.
Thanks, but i’d like to know the name of the mcu.
Do i have to desolder the mcu in order to flash it?
I thinks it’s hard to find a simular board since it has a magnetic switch
Any light with a sideswitch is likely to be tied to the specific light, and even if it has a µC you can get at, there’s no guarantee it’ll be compatible with any of those for which flashable sw is available. Some of those µCs are bought specifically for and by that mfr, and are “sealed boxes”. Might even have the write-protect bit set.
Is there anyway i can make it simply on-off? looking at the connection on the board, is it possible to flash it without desoldering? and how could i know the name of that chip?
Thanks!
The 9926A labeled package is an N-channel MOSFET used to drive the LED. The “brain” of the driver is at the left. While I can’t see any markings, I’m pretty sure that it cannot be reflashed.
This doesn’t appear to be a boost driver, just a dumb old direct-drive PWM controlled driver. This also means that it’s not a XHP70. Sorry, you got a “fake” flashlight, not what was advertised.
How could i be sure at 100% it can’t be flashed? I don’t know about the led, if you want i can disassembly the flashlight and post a photo of the led. But what i’m sure is that it is really brighter in comparison of my older diving light.
It would be best if i could make it two modes
First step is to desolder the driver and make full schematics by reverse engineering the driver board (trace out all connections, by eye and multimeter, get as much info on the components as possible etc). Then we can talk about it again.
Usually the MCUs in low-cost lights are writable only once. I also have the feeling, that there are ASICs with the common off/low/high/strobe rotation which is even cheaper in large quantity.
Most probably you’ll need a new driver. If you’re happy with your clone LED, keep it. Otherwise it also needs a new LED (on MCPCB if you can’t reflow). Likely this will be more expensive than getting a better light.
Yeah, i think so.
Probably i’m going to buy an orcatorch d710.
We’ve made good experience with less expensive lights, like diving lights from Wurkkos (e.g. DL10R, DL30 or DL40).
I need a flaslight that can go fullon-off in an easy way.
It would be ok just on off too.
And i need to use it with thic gloves, so it mustn’t has rotary switching
The rotary switch is specially made to be used with gloves and under water. The DL40 has a button, short press on, then short press to change brightness or hold for off.
What software should i use to draw the circuit? Kicad is ok?
Pen and paper will work as well.
This can’t be completely right, because the gate for the FET should be connected to the MCU and it is missing the button. But overall this is the most basic driver one could design. It might be possible to cut a few traces and solder an ATtiny at it’s place. Requires a hot air station and the parts, of course. Then you can start writing your own firmware.
It hasn’t any button, it has a magnetic switch.
Could you say me what are the traces to cut and what i have to buy? Just the attiny? Do i need the usbasp too?
I corrected the circuit: Xanes D60 Circuit.jpeg - Google Drive
Do i have to cut the first 3 pin on the bottom left of the attiny?
Oh, so the 1383 is a hall effect sensor, clever (and cheap) design. There is a programmable hall effect sensor with that package and that marking.
If you want to proceed with that project, you don’t need any more help from us. It’s like designing a new driver. You’ll need the knowledge and the tools to do it.
- Get datasheet of that hall effect sensor
- Measure the configuration of it using an oscilloscope
- Desolder the current MCU
- Replace it with an ATtiny (13/85/whatever)
- You want to cut the trace to the reset pin and (ideally) add a high resistor (floating reset is bad, but the programmer must be able to pull it low to enter ISP mode)
- Then write you own, custom firmware to read out the hall effect sensor and output the PWM signal of your choice
I’ve just seen blf-vld, is it a good start point?
This is a more complex project and I fear that it’s too much guiding you through every step. With the magnetic switch you can’t simply use another stock driver and with the programmable (is it? check with a scope!) hall effect sensor you also can’t use another firmware.