XM-L Current readings vs XM-L2?

What kind of current levels would I be getting from a true direct drive over the East-92?

I just tried the E-Moli in the other twin HD2010 that still has the stock XM-L T6 and got 4.74A. I think I’m going to go back to XM-L for hard driven single cell lights.

Which LED puts out the most light?

If the amp draw is all that matters, replace the LED with a 14AWG copper jumper. It should be pretty spectacular at ~50A!


Is 3.5A direct drive for a King Kong ICR 26650 Protected? XM-L2 U2-1A Everything else is stock on the HD 2010.

I’d like to get about 5A out of this thing; I think I might pick up one of those foursevens off of amazon.

If you want highest possible emitter amps, find a cell with little voltage sag. If you want high output for a good amount of time, find a cell which maintains high voltage for a good amount of time..

20R is the typical 18650 hot-rod cell..

Here it is compared to the Sony SE US 26650VT.

I have not owned the 20R for long, but they have quite similar peak current as the Sony, but the Sony is way better once its been used for some time.. There are many 26650 cells that cant compete with the peak current of the 20Rs. But a King King 26650 is way better once you have used the cell for some time..

My point is, don't get too caught up in peak current. If peak current is what matters, use what others who are pushing 5A++ peak current are using.. Comfy had some good suggestions, but I have not seen any discharge graphs compared to the cells in the above graph.

There are some IMR cells that are capable of very high currents, but that does not mean they wont sag a lot when pushed hard. You want cells with little sag...

Hard to say for sure.. It could be.. You need to do resistance mods on the springs (copper braid). And you need decent DMM wires. Protected cells will perform lower than unprotected.

The best way of knowing if if its proper direct drive is to test the same cell and emitter in a proper direct drive setup and then compare the amps when using a certain driver circuit.

I have had my suspicions about what I’m seeing in lights I test out stock. With the right driver and above 3 amps, the XM-L2s can light up…but then I make sure my XM-Ls are powered by the best cells and the difference is hardly worth bragging about (as I’ve stated elsewhere). In the name of efficiency, it simply doesn’t make sense to rave about emitters that require more to make more. The name of the game with LEDs has always been making more with less, otherwise we’d still be using SST-50s.

Okay. I’m getting it. I guess in the case of XM-L vs XM-L2 drive level, it’s best to listen to your eyes rather than your DMM.

I use a 26650 in my HD2010, and like others I jumped at the chance to get the Moli's. Big disappointment! I have my HD2010 fully modded and finally performing like I always knew it could. The Powerizer cell lets it pull 5.87A and the Moli can't make over 4.74A. This is with a Qlite, also heavily modded. Throw of over 1000 yds. :)

Powerizer all the way Baby! :P

Have you happened to try a protected foursevens?

+1 !!! When upgrading XML to XM-L2 on direct drive or effective direct drive -- yes you lose amps with the same circuit but that's why you got to put in your time and TLC on eliminating most of the voltage stealing buggers in the circuit, such as steel springs, poor high resistance cells, thin wires, no electrically conductive grease/oil on threads, etc....

I would NEVER go back to XML's on aluminum in a high current light - just doesn't make sense because they can't match or come close to XM-L2's on copper. I'd suspect even using a XML on a direct thermal path copper will result in slightly lower amps because of the cooling effect of the copper star. XML on copper may have some merit - not sure how it compares, would be interesting to find out, but I'd be wondering if even at higher amps with the XML, will it result in higher lumens/throw.

The XM-L performs well on copper, I de-domed the original XM-L U2 in my Solarforce M3 and it's pulling 4.12A and throwing over 600 yds.

I prefer the XM-L2, the XP-G2 and the MT-G2, given options.

whoever said above the aim is getting more out of less had it nailed.

For me, the biggest advantage of xm-l2’s is that you can have a nice tint without sacrificing too many lumens, lets be honest, you can happily walk around on a dark night with an edc on low, heading to 1000+ lumens is purely about bragging rights.

Now don’t get me wrong, seriously abusing emitters is dammed good fun, my point is, you can get 1000 emitter lumens at 3a from an xm-l u3, you can get about 1000 emitter lumens from an xm-l2 t6 3c. That is where the the xm-l2 gains for me - similar output with a nicer tint, yes you can seriously abuse an xm-l2 u2 to around 1500 lumens and 200+kcd but your back to a not so pleasant tint.

I really wouldn’t get too hung up on emitter or tailcap amps, I’ve come to the conclusion my best testing device is my mk1 eyeball, is it bright? do I like the tint? jobs a good un, move on, I can tell you, there really are much much more important things that can happen to you in life, trust me on that.

All that said…….I can’t wait to get a chance to get back on with some projects, it might be helpful to me to do something less meaningful but satisfying none the less :bigsmile:

okay - I'll just go shutup and go home now....

lol don’t be like that Tom, and don’t mind me too much at the moment, I’m probably not in the best frame of mind for a discussion like this, I’m certainly not down on pushing limits either, I just feel there are other things to look at than absolute maximum brightness.

I’ve always built or chose lights to use, I’ve just found that now, I can have 80cri at a too bright for my use level…….that to me, is awesome, I really am getting more from less.

Or you can get close to 1000 OTF XP-G2 lumens, ya just gotta push REAL hard. :P

Convoy C8, Ryans copper pill, Noctigon with XP-G2 R5 2B, pulling 4.55A from an Samsung 20R cell making 970 OTF lumens at start-up and 883 lumens OTF at 30 seconds. :)

I’m working on a replacement/similar one. Prototype is working good! Friend is doing a PCB layout.

I can’t wait. Do you have a name for it?

Currently I have it named Tivo532-092A. But I’m open for suggestions. :beer:

Tivo 1? 5+3=8 8+2=10 1+0= 1 532 numerically compresses to 1. Tivo 1. Or TVO1

this is why I like hard driven xp-g2’s. still pretty dammed bright but appear more throwy in a smaller size. that and I’m bored of xm-l based builds, I have enough.