XML T6 modding

Now that you have the flashlight you can try to improve it. 1R0 is 1 ohm, 1R8 is 1.8 ohm. Those big resistors in parallel with an R on them can be easily recognized as the sense resistors that limit the high mode. Adding resistors or bypassing them like Lightbringer suggested gives you more output on high.

I would recommend you the flashlight hosts from Sofirn or Convoy as they are manufactured a lot better than any generic flashlights. You can also get the leds and drivers at the official Convoy or Sofirn store on Aliexpress. Assembling those parts is an easy start to modding flashlights.

For the XHP70 you could have a look at the C8.2 host with 10mm reflector led hole on Aliexpress: Link

The XHP70 is difficult indeed because the heat it produces has to be transferred to the flashlight or it will overheat. That is valid for every led though, it is just that the XHP70 produces a lot of heat.

the xhp70.2 is 7mm
the hp50.2 is 5mm

the xhp70.2 is 12 volt but you can get a 6volt version

there is some 3volt xhp50.2 , i have one in my convoy c8

you need to change the driver in the convoy to a 6volt driver for the6v xhp70

it will get hot! very hot

there is extension tubes for convoys so you could put 2x 18650s in

i wish you look and tell me how it goes

for the driver there is a guy from germany on this forum LEXEL

pm him , he does drivers for convoy c8 . he is super cool andyou can ask him to custom make you one

i ordered from himand it came to finland in 3days

the software on the driver is good, the workmanship he does is second to none

you can have it kind of drop in or if your good at soldering ,you can solder the wires and spring yourself

All the XHPs (except for the new’n’special 3V ones) are 6V or more. If you could get a boost-driver to fit, it’d work.

Beware, though, that zoomies in general do not have the best thermal path, so what might work great in a regular tubelight or plunger-light, will likely build up too much heat in a zoomie’s LED.

And if doesn’t have a solid shelf but a “hollow” one (sits on a ridge/ledge instead, big gaping hole in the middle), it’ll be even worse.

If I get this host, is there anything I can improve on it thermally, so it is better suited for the xhp 70?
Or do I just have to get a good host in the beginning and then get a fitting LED?

This host is already pretty good thermally with an integrated shelf and deep cooling fins. You should use a 20mm copper PCB for the XHP70 with a good thermal paste underneath. The driver would need to be 22mm.

I just ordered the host, now it only needs to arrive.
Do you have any Suggestion, Where i get decent cree LEDs, not the nockoffs and Also decent drivers for them?
Can you sugfest me a driver for the xhp 70, or what am I looking for?

The convoy C8 with the xhp50.2 what’s the output and current?

Today the resistors arrived. I added 4 of the new resistors on top of the old ones, but i don’t think it did much.
I now measure 1.3A at the LED. Can I add more resistors, or is that too much for the board?

Ok I just kept adding resistors, until the current at the LED didnt change anymore. It runs at 1.75A now and is noticeably brighter. It also gets a lot warmer than before, so i think i will leave it here. The other parts are ordered, I will keep you posted once they arrive.

The XHP70.2 is normally not sold as a bare nockoff, you will find those mostly in flashlights. One source for XHP70.2 is Kaidomain or you can search for XHP70.2 on Aliexpress. For a genuine XHP70.2 in the brightest P2 bin: Convoy flashlight store

The XHP70 needs a driver with 6V and 5A. You can buy a boost driver that is used with one battery (1S) or a buck driver for two batteries. 1S boost driver 2S/3S buck driver

Thanks for the answer. I already ordered a xhp70 with driver on aliexpress but i now know, that the driver is too big…
I will order one of the suggested drivers now. Hope they wont take too long to get here.

Will the bare xhp70 also be a real cree one, or do you get those as bare nockoffs as well?
I bought it in a bundle with a driver.

Do i need to get a different emitter as well, or will this one be sufficient?

You would need a 22mm driver. Also, you need to decide if you want to use the C8.2 with the extension tube and two batteries or only with one battery and shorter. You can use a buck driver only with two batteries and a boost driver only with one battery. That is important to know and decide before purchase. Normally it takes a month with registered shipping for parts to arrive.

I decided for the extension tube and the buck converter. If i understand it correctly, it should givr me better runtime.

This should be genuine. Just to give you an example, this would be the knockoff. I have ordered from this store already and they are reliable. Somewhere on BLF there should be a list of trusted stores.

The XHP70 has separated dies and sometimes especially in smooth reflectors it gives you a donut hole (dark spot in the center of the beam). That is why the second generation XHP70.2 is recommended. XHP70.2

I’ll test the chip when it gets here. If I have a donut hole, I can still order a xhp 70.2. For now, I will wait for the stuff to arrive.
But thanks for the tip anyway.

Two 26650 give you definitely more runtime. Sometimes the donut hole can be removed with an orange peel reflector.

Good luck with the mod!

Since I already posted the pictures of the driver here, is there any way to get rid of the strobe mode?
The driver has high-low-strobe as modes

I’m assuming you mean the stock driver, not the driver that came with your new LED? (I doubt you’ll get that 22mm driver in the aliexpress listing to fit into that light.) Either way the answer is likely the same.

Technically the answer might be “yes”, but you will need the equipment and knowledge to reprogram the IC that controls the modes. If this was a attiny chip it might be “relatively” straight forward to flash one of the popular firmwares developed by BLF members (still requires hardware, but firmware and walkthroughs are available for how-to-do). If it’s a different chip (probably the case here) you would need the ability to reverse engineer and change the stock light firmware I believe.

The more likely scenario would be to “just” put in a new driver with the firmware/UI you want, but even that will be a more advanced mod on the light you’ve got (e-switch, recharging circuit) than with something like a Convoy S2.